tone3721

PM sent.

Jeremy Himsel

You do have to change the head studs but it's no big deal. I'm not sure why you think it isn't advisable. The 3.0L block is the better option because it has the piston squirters installed and you don't have to clearance the block for the stroke of the 3.0 crank. While your numbers may be parts dollars, you'll need quite a bit more then that to get a working motor because bearings, gaskets, honing, cleaning, machining, etc...

If you could really build a running 3.0L turbo for 5K (that's going to last for more then a yera) there would be a LOT more of them around. What rods/pistons are you using? Are you going to use the stock rod/main bolts? Will the head need to be rebuilt? Since localized boiling is pretty common at the rear of the head, what are you doing for heat mangment? Are you going to use a a sodium filled exhause valve? Are you opening up the quench area to lower the compression? Are the pistons alusil friendly or will they be coated? Will you need to bore/hone the cylinders? What clutch/PP are you going to use for that type of power. Can your fuel system flow enough to meet those power demands?

Olli Snellman

I choose the folowing route:
-S2 block
-S crank
-brand new 2.7L head with Chevy BB valves
-Mahle 104.5mm pistons
-locally made rods
- and all other necessary parts to complete the engine.

Tom M'Guinn

If you use an original 89 block and an original 89 head, then (no surprise) the original 89 studs will be the proper height. The 89 studs are unique lengths though, which you will not find at any of the Raceware/ARP retailers. I called Raceware for mine and was lucky they had a set (no number -- the package was marked "special"). 968 studs are too tall for use in an 89 block with 2.7 head. Here's how I know that for sure.

Olli Snellman

That's absolutely tru, i found out the same think with my S2 block with 2.7L head.I am going to use original 2.7L studs.

Arto 951

Tom above is talking all the time "-89 block". There is offcourse MY -89 104mm 2.7 and MY -89 104mm 3.0 S2 blocks..
2.7 block have those short studs what you need when using 2.7 head.
Available from Raceware or OEM Porsche. Check parts number from PET.

Some engine builder maybe don't want to take old studs off because it's real PITA and accidents can happen (break some stud to inside the block).

Only 968 blocks not in S2

Very fine sanding stone. Needed when your crank girdle / oil pump is installed.

Tom M'Guinn

Yes, the block I used was from an 89 2.7 motor. Don't know for sure, but hard to believe Porsche made a separate one-year only block for the 2.7. I'd guess that all 89 104mm bore blocks have the same block (but different crank, studs, head, etc. as needed).

DFASTEST951

Maybe some of you guys should throw out some dollar amounts of what it cost you to build a 3.0 liter like Tom and Jeremy. I am going to stay out of this one though. Most of you know. I say if Jeremy invites you to his house, you absolutely need to take him up on it as he knows what he's doing and I believe had has a 3.0 liter he's building now. He and Tom both know what it costs when doing it yourself.

gt37vgt, I wish I lived like that. Right now I'm so broke I can't afford to pay attention. I thought I was in a recession proof industry. It's bad out there for everyone, even the "entertainment" industry.

Jeremy Himsel

[QUOTE=Arto 951;5937288]Some engine builder maybe don't want to take old studs off because it's real PITA and accidents can happen (break some stud to inside the block).

Only 968 blocks not in S2[QUOTE]

Yes, the squirters are only in a 968 block. I used an S2 block and installed squirters myself and I recommend using the 968 block to save the cost and hassle. The squirters aren't cheap and are somewhat hard to find. Like Tom, I use the special order raceware studs as well with the 2.7 head.

I don't understand the dilemma with removing studs. I've done it 7 or 8 times and never had an issue. With the motor in the car I can see how side loading can be an issue and create a potential problem but with the motor out of the car it is VERY easy. I used the cheapo Cratsman stud removers as well and never needed heat. Maybe I'm just lucky.......

tone3721

DJ says they dont advise changing the headstuds, I thought it didnt seem like that big of a deal. Ive already paid for a rebuild, including, head, gaskets, bearings, honing, cleaning, machining, etc. Im saying 4-5k for the extra parts, on top of what Ive already paid for rebuild. All together, Its looking like the bill will total about 13k. Rods/pistons will most likely go with wossner. 951 valves. Not sure about the quench area. Pistons should be alusil friendly. Not sure about pp, I know its a 930 disk. Currently have 55lb injectors. Could always go 72 lb with fuel pump.

Olli Snellman

I have calculated about 15K$

333pg333

Wonder what DJ has against changing headstuds? The stock 951 studs are substantially bigger than most 911s, but you can always improve. Depends on what sort of psi you intend running of course. No need to change from stock up to a certain point.....not sure what that point is though hehehe
I guess if you're going to the trouble of building a new engine that is going to be pumping out eg 450whp, then perhaps you may as well do the studs anyway. You never know when you might tune for E85 and wind the boost up??

Duke

Building a 2.7l are you Olli!?
Sorry couldn't resist

Olli Snellman

ofcourse S2 crank.

Arto 951

I only meant that any S2 block (including -89) with original studs need to have shorter ones like -89 2.7 have (to use 8 valve head)