What's the best repair for a slightly bent car?
#1
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So, if you were following my other thread, you know I did a little damage to the rear of my car.
I've started taking it apart:
![](http://1360745.sites.myregisteredsite.com/944/bumper%20off.jpg)
The first thing I noticed, there is a buckle in the trunk area:
![](http://1360745.sites.myregisteredsite.com/944/trunk%20bent.jpg)
And, next to the bumper shock mount on the right side, you can see where the caulk on a seam split open (the white line above the tow hook):
![](http://1360745.sites.myregisteredsite.com/944/pulled%20seam.jpg)
It took me a while to open the hatch without breaking the glass - I actually had to remove the passenger seat and climb back there, curl up in the fetal position and unbolt the latches. Anyhow, when the hatch swings down, you can see that the pins don't line up with the holes:
![](http://1360745.sites.myregisteredsite.com/944/hatch%20pin.jpg)
And, if you sight down the right side of the car, you can see that the fender is a little to the right as compared with the outside of the hatch:
![](http://1360745.sites.myregisteredsite.com/944/right%20fender.jpg)
And on the left side, the fender is a little towards the inside:
![](http://1360745.sites.myregisteredsite.com/944/left%20fender.jpg)
So, the big question:
What's the proper course of action? Try to push the rear of the car back over? Is that best done with a porta power or with a frame straightener? Or leave it the way it is, because the damage doesn't extend forward to the rear suspension mounts, and just move my hatch pins over, chalk it up to being a "rough and tough track car" and call it a day?
I've started taking it apart:
![](http://1360745.sites.myregisteredsite.com/944/bumper%20off.jpg)
The first thing I noticed, there is a buckle in the trunk area:
![](http://1360745.sites.myregisteredsite.com/944/trunk%20bent.jpg)
And, next to the bumper shock mount on the right side, you can see where the caulk on a seam split open (the white line above the tow hook):
![](http://1360745.sites.myregisteredsite.com/944/pulled%20seam.jpg)
It took me a while to open the hatch without breaking the glass - I actually had to remove the passenger seat and climb back there, curl up in the fetal position and unbolt the latches. Anyhow, when the hatch swings down, you can see that the pins don't line up with the holes:
![](http://1360745.sites.myregisteredsite.com/944/hatch%20pin.jpg)
And, if you sight down the right side of the car, you can see that the fender is a little to the right as compared with the outside of the hatch:
![](http://1360745.sites.myregisteredsite.com/944/right%20fender.jpg)
And on the left side, the fender is a little towards the inside:
![](http://1360745.sites.myregisteredsite.com/944/left%20fender.jpg)
So, the big question:
What's the proper course of action? Try to push the rear of the car back over? Is that best done with a porta power or with a frame straightener? Or leave it the way it is, because the damage doesn't extend forward to the rear suspension mounts, and just move my hatch pins over, chalk it up to being a "rough and tough track car" and call it a day?
#3
Rennlist Member
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I'd want to be sure the rear suspension did not move. That crease in the trunk makes me think it may have moved, given the angle of the crease and its large size. Square it up on a machine would be my vote...
#4
Rennlist Member
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I would take it to a frame shop and have them throw it on a rack to check critical pickup point dimensions - in all probability the damage is "cosmetic". If they can pull it straighter, so the hatch fits better and the floor pan in the trunk flattens out - great.
But in the end, on a track car, if the car can be aligned and corner balanced - its straight enough...
But in the end, on a track car, if the car can be aligned and corner balanced - its straight enough...
#5
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+1 on the frame shop. My son slightly tweaked mine last year, very little cosmetic damage but the frame had moved quite a bit. Shouldn't take long to straightenit out. Mine was in the $750 range.
#6
Race Director
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frame machine time....
One issue with tweaked car is that it can caused odd handling on the track because you can had issues getting it aligned just right. Still get it on frame machine and have it checked and pulled back if needed. Then worry about the cosmetic stuff.
One issue with tweaked car is that it can caused odd handling on the track because you can had issues getting it aligned just right. Still get it on frame machine and have it checked and pulled back if needed. Then worry about the cosmetic stuff.
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Van,
It looks like the trunk absorbed the energy, I doubt the frame was effected.
As an alternative, when I'm over doing the clutch, we can both jump up an down in the hatch area to flatten that lump...
Nick
It looks like the trunk absorbed the energy, I doubt the frame was effected.
As an alternative, when I'm over doing the clutch, we can both jump up an down in the hatch area to flatten that lump...
Nick
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The corner of impact has been pushed down and across so the main frame will 100% be bent and I'm guessing on about 1.5cm down and 2cm across.
I hate to say this but I'd go for a re-shell as you are in for a big spend on this one mate.
First the floor will need to be cut out and then the inner wheel arch's will need to be cut along the seam. Drop rear axle and mount on jig followed by a full from the same angle as the impact. Looks to me as if both chassis legs are bent. Take both the wheels of and have a good look at where the rear axle mounts - See any clean paint or further buckles then it's a re-shell for sure![Frown](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
Did you hit a tyre wall? I'm sorry to see these pictures and feel for you mate!
I'd take CurtP up on his offer of a new tub/shell mate
I hate to say this but I'd go for a re-shell as you are in for a big spend on this one mate.
First the floor will need to be cut out and then the inner wheel arch's will need to be cut along the seam. Drop rear axle and mount on jig followed by a full from the same angle as the impact. Looks to me as if both chassis legs are bent. Take both the wheels of and have a good look at where the rear axle mounts - See any clean paint or further buckles then it's a re-shell for sure
![Frown](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
Did you hit a tyre wall? I'm sorry to see these pictures and feel for you mate!
I'd take CurtP up on his offer of a new tub/shell mate
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#14
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In fact, maybe I'll have to put it back together and check. That will tell me very quickly if I've given the suspension points an "up/down" tweak.
It was a tire wall - at about 50 MPH.
#15
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Indeed the first thing you want to do is put it back together and check the alignment and track. If the suspension hasn't been tweaked then it's simple cosmetic repairs you can do yourself. This is the ONE thing our frog leg suspension is good for. It can sometimes take hits in the rear without disturbing the rear suspension. Had it been a double wish bone suspension then you would be in bad shape.
If your suspension is tweaked then you need to get it onto a jig at a frame shop so they can try to straighten it. At that point your probably better off getting a new tub from a parted car.
If your suspension is tweaked then you need to get it onto a jig at a frame shop so they can try to straighten it. At that point your probably better off getting a new tub from a parted car.