What's the best repair for a slightly bent car?
#17
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Hey curtp what are you lookin to sell that tub if he doesn't buy it?? Im in the va beach area too and in need of a straight body myself.
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I would take it to a frame shop and have them throw it on a rack to check critical pickup point dimensions - in all probability the damage is "cosmetic". If they can pull it straighter, so the hatch fits better and the floor pan in the trunk flattens out - great.
But in the end, on a track car, if the car can be aligned and corner balanced - its straight enough...
But in the end, on a track car, if the car can be aligned and corner balanced - its straight enough...
#19
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I don't know why you would need "Specialized clamps" to pull that car.
I'd say that car has a solid 8 hours of pull time on it, being generous. I can't see the car so I wouldnt want to under estimate.
Best thing you can do is just take it to a good shop and get an estimate for just the pull time. The problem is getting that shop to do a partial repair like that, but business is slow and some of those guys realy need work.
I'd say that car has a solid 8 hours of pull time on it, being generous. I can't see the car so I wouldnt want to under estimate.
Best thing you can do is just take it to a good shop and get an estimate for just the pull time. The problem is getting that shop to do a partial repair like that, but business is slow and some of those guys realy need work.
#20
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Ryan, you are part right in what you are saying but pulling/jigging a car is not quite that straight forwards. When a car becomes structually damaged/twisted you first need to cut away anything that would ease pulling hence the trunk floor would have to be removed first if the chassis leg is bent which I can guarantee it is on the side of impart. The wing on the same side would also have to be removed again before pulling.
If this car was simply bolted down to a jig and pulled as is there are 2 things which can go wrong:
1. The jugging will cause damage else where i.e. in the roof which is not as structually strong.
2. Without removing the trunk floor as a minimum then after pulling the chassis my simply shring back due to all the natural forces applied to it.
Metal unlike plastic doesn't have memory ... Once bent it's harder to straghten again. Plastic like a bumper you can simply apply heat and the memory in the material will in many case restore it's shape.
This is a re-shell job unfortunately and not worth the time messing about with. I'm sure a good shell can be had in the US for less than $500 USD and the parts swap over could be done in 2-4 days.
For the cost of a shell at $500 USD he could then get the entire car repainted and the finished job will be both alot cheaper than repairing, 100% straight so piece of mind and lastly after the paint job he will have one fantastic looking car and have it painted in the colour of his choice
If this car was simply bolted down to a jig and pulled as is there are 2 things which can go wrong:
1. The jugging will cause damage else where i.e. in the roof which is not as structually strong.
2. Without removing the trunk floor as a minimum then after pulling the chassis my simply shring back due to all the natural forces applied to it.
Metal unlike plastic doesn't have memory ... Once bent it's harder to straghten again. Plastic like a bumper you can simply apply heat and the memory in the material will in many case restore it's shape.
This is a re-shell job unfortunately and not worth the time messing about with. I'm sure a good shell can be had in the US for less than $500 USD and the parts swap over could be done in 2-4 days.
For the cost of a shell at $500 USD he could then get the entire car repainted and the finished job will be both alot cheaper than repairing, 100% straight so piece of mind and lastly after the paint job he will have one fantastic looking car and have it painted in the colour of his choice
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#21
The Impaler
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Ryan, you are part right in what you are saying but pulling/jigging a car is not quite that straight forwards. When a car becomes structually damaged/twisted you first need to cut away anything that would ease pulling hence the trunk floor would have to be removed first if the chassis leg is bent which I can guarantee it is on the side of impart. The wing on the same side would also have to be removed again before pulling.
If this car was simply bolted down to a jig and pulled as is there are 2 things which can go wrong:
1. The jugging will cause damage else where i.e. in the roof which is not as structually strong.
2. Without removing the trunk floor as a minimum then after pulling the chassis my simply shring back due to all the natural forces applied to it.
Metal unlike plastic doesn't have memory ... Once bent it's harder to straghten again. Plastic like a bumper you can simply apply heat and the memory in the material will in many case restore it's shape.
This is a re-shell job unfortunately and not worth the time messing about with. I'm sure a good shell can be had in the US for less than $500 USD and the parts swap over could be done in 2-4 days.
For the cost of a shell at $500 USD he could then get the entire car repainted and the finished job will be both alot cheaper than repairing, 100% straight so piece of mind and lastly after the paint job he will have one fantastic looking car and have it painted in the colour of his choice![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
If this car was simply bolted down to a jig and pulled as is there are 2 things which can go wrong:
1. The jugging will cause damage else where i.e. in the roof which is not as structually strong.
2. Without removing the trunk floor as a minimum then after pulling the chassis my simply shring back due to all the natural forces applied to it.
Metal unlike plastic doesn't have memory ... Once bent it's harder to straghten again. Plastic like a bumper you can simply apply heat and the memory in the material will in many case restore it's shape.
This is a re-shell job unfortunately and not worth the time messing about with. I'm sure a good shell can be had in the US for less than $500 USD and the parts swap over could be done in 2-4 days.
For the cost of a shell at $500 USD he could then get the entire car repainted and the finished job will be both alot cheaper than repairing, 100% straight so piece of mind and lastly after the paint job he will have one fantastic looking car and have it painted in the colour of his choice
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
If the chassis is pulled properly, it shouldn't shrink back down. The whole "Pull 2 inches to net 1 inch" idea (of course it's a bit more complex than that). I'm also not sure how putting the car on a frame machine would hurt the roof? the jig bolts on the bottom of the car.
Then again, I can't see the car so it's hard to tell how bad it really is...
Of course all that being said, unless you know someone who will help you out with this or have access to a good frame bench I agree that it's best to just find another shell, they grow on trees.
EDIT: I'm saying you could make it work in the sense that you could get the car back into alignment... not in the sense that you could make it look pretty.
#22
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The type of jigging you are referring to when other panels are not removed is normally done to crumple zones but this is a chassis leg so it affects the straightness of the car which has obviously twisted and damaging the rear quarter, trunk floor and probably the rear license panel if not more.
I have had many car's jigged and also done the work myself and unfortunately have just panged my 996TT in a similar way. My 996 TT is worth considerably more but is not worth repairing due to the strip down cost and the fact the chassis is damaged similar to this car (twisted).
Here is a link on the 968 board I posted which will illustratehow the job is done properly: https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ht=damaged+968
You will clearly see that the damage is very minimal on the 968 car when looking at it but notice why they had to take the rear wing off even though it showed no sign of damage. Also check out the mounting/brace points used and the angle of the pull which is in 180 degrees reverse of the angle of impact.
This is the only real way of doing the job properly but yes mate you are right that anything (well almost anything) can be pulled if it is cost effective and you answered the question that 944 shells can be had for next to nothing and almost grow in trees
I have had many car's jigged and also done the work myself and unfortunately have just panged my 996TT in a similar way. My 996 TT is worth considerably more but is not worth repairing due to the strip down cost and the fact the chassis is damaged similar to this car (twisted).
Here is a link on the 968 board I posted which will illustratehow the job is done properly: https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ht=damaged+968
You will clearly see that the damage is very minimal on the 968 car when looking at it but notice why they had to take the rear wing off even though it showed no sign of damage. Also check out the mounting/brace points used and the angle of the pull which is in 180 degrees reverse of the angle of impact.
This is the only real way of doing the job properly but yes mate you are right that anything (well almost anything) can be pulled if it is cost effective and you answered the question that 944 shells can be had for next to nothing and almost grow in trees
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#23
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I don't know why you would need "Specialized clamps" to pull that car.
I'd say that car has a solid 8 hours of pull time on it, being generous. I can't see the car so I wouldnt want to under estimate.
Best thing you can do is just take it to a good shop and get an estimate for just the pull time. The problem is getting that shop to do a partial repair like that, but business is slow and some of those guys realy need work.
I'd say that car has a solid 8 hours of pull time on it, being generous. I can't see the car so I wouldnt want to under estimate.
Best thing you can do is just take it to a good shop and get an estimate for just the pull time. The problem is getting that shop to do a partial repair like that, but business is slow and some of those guys realy need work.
#25
The Impaler
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#26
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I do know that in the 944 Body service manual, there is a section on the "proper" body jigs.
I'm positive I wouldn't be able to find anyone who has them...
I got to spend about an hour looking at it over lunch time. I think Future and Burma are onto something...
The inside of the right fender definitely moved over - you can see where my wheel rubbed against it. (The left side doesn't look like that.)
![](http://www.ephotomotion.com/944/wheel rub.jpg)
I started gluing threads to the suspension measuring points (outlined in the service manual) with fishing sinkers on one end. This way, I'll be able to mark the positions on the floor and take accurate measurements.
![](http://www.ephotomotion.com/944/thread drop.jpg)
Hopefully, tonight after the kids are in bed, I'll actually be able to take some real measurements.
I'm positive I wouldn't be able to find anyone who has them...
I got to spend about an hour looking at it over lunch time. I think Future and Burma are onto something...
The inside of the right fender definitely moved over - you can see where my wheel rubbed against it. (The left side doesn't look like that.)
![](http://www.ephotomotion.com/944/wheel rub.jpg)
I started gluing threads to the suspension measuring points (outlined in the service manual) with fishing sinkers on one end. This way, I'll be able to mark the positions on the floor and take accurate measurements.
![](http://www.ephotomotion.com/944/thread drop.jpg)
Hopefully, tonight after the kids are in bed, I'll actually be able to take some real measurements.
#27
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Wow Van never seen this happen before - Looks like you've got movement on both side ![Frown](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
On a plus note you have some very nice bolt-on extras on your car mate - May be it's time you look at doing a 968 TRS replica if your engine and trans are strong
Sorry to see this mate but new shell is the way forwards! You've started stripping the car down very quickly since you've not spent much time on it up to now so bite the bullet and re-shell and paint it to match that lovely Recaro 968CS bucket seat you have in there ![burnout](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/burnout.gif)
Funds permitting go for a 968 though if you can find a tatty one for cheap to swap everything over to! You can only profit in the long run
![Frown](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
On a plus note you have some very nice bolt-on extras on your car mate - May be it's time you look at doing a 968 TRS replica if your engine and trans are strong
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Funds permitting go for a 968 though if you can find a tatty one for cheap to swap everything over to! You can only profit in the long run
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#29
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I'm with Future on the re-body idea. Lorax--I'm not saying the car can't be clamped down at all with generic equipment...for a hard hit like Van's though it will be difficult to tie it down sufficiently to make the proper pulls without causing more damage. Obviously I managed to straighten my car, but it only took a very light pull. I'm sure you're a very knowledgeable guy but you are out of your depth here. Van, sorry to go off topic here, just trying to help as this is my field. Van, you will come out $$ ahead with a better finished product if you re- body the car. My .02.