How much power can one expect to gain from 2.8 stroker?
10-14-2008, 04:02 AM
#31
The Impaler
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That would probably provide you allot more enjoyment for your $$$'s IMO
10-14-2008, 05:04 AM
#32
Rennlist Member
Yup, I agree, but are you still looking at buying AND turboing a 968? If you're having 2nd thoughts and are going to use that $10k, then you can do some pretty nice damage. The KWs are a great addition and the V3s are perfect for a fast road car. Check with George. He's just installed them on his car.
I also can't argue with Tom. Going up the extra CCs really does make a difference, especially in torque. If you can match that with a nice breathing head/cam arrangement, you've got yourself a car that will put most to shame. Still, there's a lot of very nice 2.5L setups too. I would probably stick to the 2.5L, think about the KWs, some head/cam stuff, and what about brakes?
I also can't argue with Tom. Going up the extra CCs really does make a difference, especially in torque. If you can match that with a nice breathing head/cam arrangement, you've got yourself a car that will put most to shame. Still, there's a lot of very nice 2.5L setups too. I would probably stick to the 2.5L, think about the KWs, some head/cam stuff, and what about brakes?
10-14-2008, 07:37 AM
#33
Addict
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Just curious with the input, how many have driven a stroked 2.8L? If you have then you'd know that it delivers decent low end torque, albeit not like a 3.0L. It's very easy to do, parts are readily available, and Chris Cervelli built many of them and wrote a great post on why he did it. Having helped Jim with his and driven his car (101mm 2.8 pistons), his car feels like our track car at 351 rwhp at 2550#. He has not dyno'd the car since the guy that was in Corpus, closed his shop and sold the dyno. The standard head will work although a bit of head work would certianly let it breathe better; Jims car has a head from Leo Goff of Memphis Motorwerks.
One thing to remember on doing a 2.8, is to be very careful on the girdle. You will most likely need to grind out a tiny bit of girdle and block, to have decent clearance for the rod bolts. It will clear but it "ain't" by much, less than the hair of your chinny chin chin.
Hopefully, the spring will provide a new thread on a my storked 2.8L. All the parts are in the garage, just need some more free time: Mahle 2.8 pistons in 100.5, Wossner rods, ARP rod bolts and head studs, 3.0L crank - along with KEP PP, lightweight pulley set, S2 R&P LSD tranny.
$$, just for giggles
Pistons - 900-1500
crank - avg 1000 but one just went on ebay for 500
machine work - 750-900
bearings, gaskets, seals, bolts - 750
head studs 80-250
head - 1200-1800 (work and new springs) optional but I think needed
clutch - 1000
and you doing the work on assembly/install
One thing to remember on doing a 2.8, is to be very careful on the girdle. You will most likely need to grind out a tiny bit of girdle and block, to have decent clearance for the rod bolts. It will clear but it "ain't" by much, less than the hair of your chinny chin chin.
Hopefully, the spring will provide a new thread on a my storked 2.8L. All the parts are in the garage, just need some more free time: Mahle 2.8 pistons in 100.5, Wossner rods, ARP rod bolts and head studs, 3.0L crank - along with KEP PP, lightweight pulley set, S2 R&P LSD tranny.
$$, just for giggles
Pistons - 900-1500
crank - avg 1000 but one just went on ebay for 500
machine work - 750-900
bearings, gaskets, seals, bolts - 750
head studs 80-250
head - 1200-1800 (work and new springs) optional but I think needed
clutch - 1000
and you doing the work on assembly/install
Last edited by Ski; 10-14-2008 at 09:23 AM.
10-14-2008, 02:01 PM
#34
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Yup, I agree, but are you still looking at buying AND turboing a 968? If you're having 2nd thoughts and are going to use that $10k, then you can do some pretty nice damage. The KWs are a great addition and the V3s are perfect for a fast road car. Check with George. He's just installed them on his car.
I also can't argue with Tom. Going up the extra CCs really does make a difference, especially in torque. If you can match that with a nice breathing head/cam arrangement, you've got yourself a car that will put most to shame. Still, there's a lot of very nice 2.5L setups too. I would probably stick to the 2.5L, think about the KWs, some head/cam stuff, and what about brakes?
I also can't argue with Tom. Going up the extra CCs really does make a difference, especially in torque. If you can match that with a nice breathing head/cam arrangement, you've got yourself a car that will put most to shame. Still, there's a lot of very nice 2.5L setups too. I would probably stick to the 2.5L, think about the KWs, some head/cam stuff, and what about brakes?
10-14-2008, 02:05 PM
#35
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Just curious with the input, how many have driven a stroked 2.8L? If you have then you'd know that it delivers decent low end torque, albeit not like a 3.0L. It's very easy to do, parts are readily available, and Chris Cervelli built many of them and wrote a great post on why he did it. Having helped Jim with his and driven his car (101mm 2.8 pistons), his car feels like our track car at 351 rwhp at 2550#. He has not dyno'd the car since the guy that was in Corpus, closed his shop and sold the dyno. The standard head will work although a bit of head work would certianly let it breathe better; Jims car has a head from Leo Goff of Memphis Motorwerks.
One thing to remember on doing a 2.8, is to be very careful on the girdle. You will most likely need to grind out a tiny bit of girdle and block, to have decent clearance for the rod bolts. It will clear but it "ain't" by much, less than the hair of your chinny chin chin.
Hopefully, the spring will provide a new thread on a my storked 2.8L. All the parts are in the garage, just need some more free time: Mahle 2.8 pistons in 100.5, Wossner rods, ARP rod bolts and head studs, 3.0L crank - along with KEP PP, lightweight pulley set, S2 R&P LSD tranny.
$$, just for giggles
Pistons - 900-1500
crank - avg 1000 but one just went on ebay for 500
machine work - 750-900
bearings, gaskets, seals, bolts - 750
head studs 80-250
head - 1200-1800 (work and new springs) optional but I think needed
clutch - 1000
and you doing the work on assembly/install
One thing to remember on doing a 2.8, is to be very careful on the girdle. You will most likely need to grind out a tiny bit of girdle and block, to have decent clearance for the rod bolts. It will clear but it "ain't" by much, less than the hair of your chinny chin chin.
Hopefully, the spring will provide a new thread on a my storked 2.8L. All the parts are in the garage, just need some more free time: Mahle 2.8 pistons in 100.5, Wossner rods, ARP rod bolts and head studs, 3.0L crank - along with KEP PP, lightweight pulley set, S2 R&P LSD tranny.
$$, just for giggles
Pistons - 900-1500
crank - avg 1000 but one just went on ebay for 500
machine work - 750-900
bearings, gaskets, seals, bolts - 750
head studs 80-250
head - 1200-1800 (work and new springs) optional but I think needed
clutch - 1000
and you doing the work on assembly/install
10-14-2008, 05:55 PM
#37
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
10-14-2008, 07:38 PM
#39
I remember talking to a well known builder here on the list and he advised to go bore over stroke claiming that stroked 2.8s are more prone to detonation and stroking increases stress at higher RPMs. He also said that torque gains were minimal at a set boost level.
10-14-2008, 08:45 PM
#41
Burning Brakes
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A 2.8 stroker with the right setup and CR will transform the car on the street. Your peak gain will be inconsequential compared to the improvement in fun and driveability.
10-14-2008, 10:11 PM
#42
12% more displacement is 12% more power potential. I did the 2.8 on my car. I couldn't stand to spend the money on a new motor and not get something 'better'. It's a turbo car, the rush is in the boost. Compared to the low end torque of a V8, a 2.8 is still lame. If I had it to do again I'd have spent the money elsewhere.
10-14-2008, 10:36 PM
#43
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Thread Starter
10-14-2008, 10:41 PM
#44
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Im kinda leaning torwards suspension, and fresh paint more, and more. More power without turning up the boost is nice, but boost is intoxicating. Maybe I should just get this done, and not spend the extra cash. Then I can focus on a 968 sooner, rather than later. Hmmmm, makes me wonder if bore and stroking the 2.5 uses the 3.0 crank, what do you use when you bore and stroke the 968 3.0? Seems like the 968 block would be beefier, and more ideal for boring.
10-14-2008, 10:45 PM
#45
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