LEAKYSEALS951

Okay, in a neverending quest of chasing oil leaks....

I just spent an entire day installing one missing turbo mount screw into my turbo only to find I need to change the lower o-ring for the support, so basically the whole turbo's gonna be out just to change one freakin seal.

anyway, it got me thinking about 3-4 questions.

1.Has anyone scrapped the heat shield between the turbo and the master brake cylinder? That thing really gets in the way. I just drive street. Is the turbo heat really gonna fry the brake stuff? ...cause access is just soooo much better without it. Just curious if anyone has tried that.

2.Funny how one thing leads to another, but If the turbos gonna be out, why not upgrade from a k26-6 to a k26-8. I was reading a thread here recently that kindof seemed like the consensus was that the k26-6 to k-26/8 swap wasnt worth it, but I feel stupid doing all this work just to replace one seal. In the spirit of patriotism I feel i have to upgrade something... If I did do the 26/6 to 26/8 swap, that's all there is to it, right? (no bigger injectors/3barfpr/retuning etc?)

3.Anybody got a k26/8?

4And if not, or it aint worth it... then bigger projects. If I do go to a better turbo than the k-26-8, then Lindsey has the 340 hp kit. Vitesse has it's kit. Lindsey's kit seems to have it all, whereas the software for vitesse seems to interpret boost, which seems more accurate. Does anyone have first hand experience with these kits/ systems/ good or bad. It seems several weeks ago several rennlisters here got the lindsey kit and were in the process of installing it. I was wondering if they were up and running yet. If Im just gonna have a cranky MAF system that needs constant mixture fiddling, Lindsey or vitesse, I dont want any part of it, I'll just replace the $7 seal.

I just love how one freaking oil seal is going to lead to all this, but I guess you have to start somewhere. Any input would be appreciated!

thanks
Ron.

dillon410021

vitesse is a sponsor for rennlist and everyone seems to be happy with it. Lindsey Racing is also a good store with very little problems. Also, If you have a problem, they will most likely know how to fix it!

ehall

1. Don't even think about it. Boiling brake fluid =BAD.
2. You're better off going to a K27/6, if you are just going to use a stock turbo.
3.Not Me.
4. There are TONS of posts and info on both. I prefer Vittese. It will cost you more, but you'll never look back.

Search is your friend on this issue.

Cory9584

I dont have a heat shield, but i do use better brake fluid and plan on wrapping the downpipe next time the intake is out. I'm not seeing any problems.

dillon410021

heres a link
https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turbo-and-turbo-s-forum/187713-vitesse-stage-ii-or-lindsey-racing-340rwhp-kit.html

TRP951

I dont run the heatshield but, I have thermotec covering the whole brake booster/resevoir assembly and my dp is ceramic coated.

LEAKYSEALS951

Okay, Thanks everyone for replying.

Let me ask this: can you install the k27 option as a straight hookup with the barn door intake, or do you have to customly recalibrate a/f mixtures?, and, later, Im assuming, you could get the vitesse maf and then use that with the k27? I dont have a dyno available either, so Im assuming I'd have to get a wideband o2 sensor. I'm hope that something like the eugo wideband (or whatever) would be useable with vitesse.

What are the characteristics of a k27? I want good driveability and midrange, not necessarily high end. It seems like k27 would be better than 26/8, but I have no experience with either.

Also , judging by my use of profanity today at simply ACCESSING the turbo, I really dont want to blow my stock head gasket and have to go to widefire gasket changeout. I want to hit the gas pedal and enjoy, not worry. Is the k27 fairly predictable with stock gaskets? I have chips and the k26/6 , and I "assume" I am running no more that 15 lbs boost. I have no intentions of every going past 15 lbs. Is k27 at this point still fairly reliable?

and For sake of reliability, I dont really want to go past 275 rwhp(ish). I will use fiberglass to cut weight and if I can get between 1-10hp/lb - 1/12 hp/lb, I will be happy (at least temporarily). It's just a street car.

Thanks
Ron

Any thoughts?

bigdeano

Good rule of thumb to use: Manufacturers put heat shields in place for a reason on cars. If they're removed, then other measures need to be taken to protect the various parts that the heat shield was protecting from extreme temps.

LEAKYSEALS951

Thanks for the heat shield input. Im thinking Im gonna cut slots in the shield at the bolt holes so the thing will just slide into place instead of me having to cuss at it while I remove the "impossible to reach" five or so 10mm nuts. That way I get ease of access and heat shielding too. If that dont work, Im goin' with heat wrap.

Thanks,
r

ehall

If you want to install something that you can plug in and drive, then I would highly reccomend the Vitesse stage II or III.

eniac

As stated, you need the heatshield. I ran without mine for a short time until my brake fluid started boiling and I had to flush the entire system. The heat shield is not difficult to remove. You can leave one or two bolts out if you need to however I can access of them pretty well with a 1/4 wratchet and 10mm socket. There's 2 that are easier to get from underneath.

Fast944T

I seen turbo covers from Lindsey Racing, any thoughts on those?

ehall

not enough to stop the heating effect on the master cylinder/resevoir.

pk951

#1 have been running without one for years even tracked the car twice no problems.
The hot side is covered with heat shield, plus were the heat shield was i installed a Thermo-Tec Cool IT products works great. The down pipe is wraped and crossover also.

bw993

I have a almost new K26/8 turbo for sale from a project car that I was working on. Turbo has < 8K miles on it before I switched to a Garrett BB Turbo. Selling for $625+shipping.