Faster steering
#4
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I've been thinking similar things .
one option is some kind of nascar rack. Or just use the rack from a late little jap car .I will get back to my chasis guru I was very concerned about matching the rack width but it turns out it's not a real show stopper it does have to be considered but you can kind of tune bumpsteer to help you .
you can retain your pump the power assistance is regulated in the magic torque valve in the rack
one option is some kind of nascar rack. Or just use the rack from a late little jap car .I will get back to my chasis guru I was very concerned about matching the rack width but it turns out it's not a real show stopper it does have to be considered but you can kind of tune bumpsteer to help you .
you can retain your pump the power assistance is regulated in the magic torque valve in the rack
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#9
Three Wheelin'
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maybe there are differences? I'm quite sure mine was 3? now I will have to check, hmm I must admit, at track, even at 180 degrees autoslalom I haven't had trouble with this at all though.
#10
Rennlist Member
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Are you talking about an actual measured lock to lock or just how many of your handfuls of turns it takes? I wouldn't mind just a bit sharper, but I think there is an inherent looseness / play in our steering. This was agreed by Jim Richards when he drove my car as he also owns one himself and said his was the same. (He's a multiple Bathurst winner and 8 times Targa Tasmania winner. Hall of famer out here)
On the track or high speed highway I find the ratio pretty good in general though. Is it possible to refresh the steering assembly though without rebuilding as I've heard that is a pain.
On the track or high speed highway I find the ratio pretty good in general though. Is it possible to refresh the steering assembly though without rebuilding as I've heard that is a pain.
#12
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How about something universal that could be made to fit and that's a decent price? The way the rack mounts to our cars is quite simple so it shouldn't be difficult to make any rack fit that has the correct lengths. I am very interested in a shorter lock to lock rack and have been toying with the idea of getting a universal race rack to see if I can fit one in. Tie rods might have to be changed out to hiem joints but that's no big deal.
I've seen steering quickeners in the Summit catalog. Do these work? What's the downfall if one could be somehow fit into the limited space of our cars?
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
I've seen steering quickeners in the Summit catalog. Do these work? What's the downfall if one could be somehow fit into the limited space of our cars?
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
#13
Race Car
Thread Starter
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That rack surely do look nice (€€€€$$$$).
I have decided to have more cost effective apporoach though. I picked up yesterday a E30 BMW rack. It is the same size as E36 and Z3 racks are. E36 M3 and Z3 variants have 2,7 turns from lock to lock. I am going to find out how this rack will sit to 951 cross member. BMW rack is bolt to cross member a little bit different way, but it can be modified to fit into 951. Internals of this rack are more or less the same as 951 ZF has, so it might be even possible to use BMW internals installed into original rack.
I have decided to have more cost effective apporoach though. I picked up yesterday a E30 BMW rack. It is the same size as E36 and Z3 racks are. E36 M3 and Z3 variants have 2,7 turns from lock to lock. I am going to find out how this rack will sit to 951 cross member. BMW rack is bolt to cross member a little bit different way, but it can be modified to fit into 951. Internals of this rack are more or less the same as 951 ZF has, so it might be even possible to use BMW internals installed into original rack.
#14
Three Wheelin'
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How about this-
1) Cut off the end of the arm on the steering knuckle that the tie rod end mounts to.
2) Machine it to accept a new, shorter end that slides over the remaining "stub".
3) Weld the **** out of it.
I don't know if that would limit how tight you could turn, or even if it could be done safely, but you'd get the result that you want.
1) Cut off the end of the arm on the steering knuckle that the tie rod end mounts to.
2) Machine it to accept a new, shorter end that slides over the remaining "stub".
3) Weld the **** out of it.
I don't know if that would limit how tight you could turn, or even if it could be done safely, but you'd get the result that you want.
#15
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Kevin i think your onto something mate why don't you "CNC" up a little tie rod receiver that clamps onto the arm . or just use an M14 rod end
Oli if you haven't considered how much rack stroke you get for your 2.7 turns and the e30 has a shorter steering arm you are going nowhere. and from memory e30's have slower steering than that an are sometimes fixed with the e36 rack I hope I'm wrong and its works out for you
Oli if you haven't considered how much rack stroke you get for your 2.7 turns and the e30 has a shorter steering arm you are going nowhere. and from memory e30's have slower steering than that an are sometimes fixed with the e36 rack I hope I'm wrong and its works out for you