DDP

Hokay

ausgeflippt951

OT: When were you up at RA? I was working out there for a race team this past summer...Formula Atlantics, F1's, CSRs. We did a number of races, including the June Sprints and Kohler International Challenge. Did you go?

What a magical track. I was fortunate enough to get my car out onto the track during a non-spectator race weekend. Maybe 15 cars on track total; enabled me to romp the hell out of the thing. Amazing, simply amazing.

Jeremy Himsel

Rick I'm not sure I agree with these assessments.

While I believe a car on the rich side is safer (from a goes boom quickly perspective) then a car on a lean side is, it's still not a good thing either and it'll be fine isn't accurate advice. Excessively rich cars are know for loosening carbon deposits in the CC (potential scratches), washing the oil from cylinder walls (ring/wall damage), dumping fuel into the crank case and damaging bearings (smell your dipstick), and lowering EGT's which hurts spool through decreased exhaust velocity. I agree that getting a WB02 is important as it's critical on how rich we're talking here. 11.5 to 1 I wouldn't be worried too much but 10.2 to 1 (I read a decent amount of black smoke) then I would be concerned running it that way. He's concerned that it's running excessively rich.

There is no reason why he shouldn't be able run 18psi on 93/94 pump gas provided he has the proper fuel delivery, EGT's are in check, and he's seeing no knock. Most modern K26/6 chips are programmed for 18 psi with a 3.0 bar FPR. The tune is the most important aspect here. We can run 40 psi on 87 octane with the right tune and I've run plenty of cars on the dyno @ 18 psi with a clean AFR and no detonation. Oh yeah...on 91 octane with 100+ degree ambient temps. I've also run it on the track this way and haven't lost a motor in 10 years.

Not true here at all. Octane, as a rating, does not directly relate to 'energy content' or 'power' in anyway. At the end of the day octane predicts a fuel's ability to withstand knock. Increased octane only allows you to make more power by increasing timing, boost, compression, etc. In fact, higher octane level actually makes the fuel harder to burn, at least as it related to the effects of pressure and heat. If you make more power by only switching octane then that tells me that you are either running too much boost for your tune, or too much of a tune for your boost. Either way, running a higher octane in this case will not lean his car out and I believe if you put your car on a dyno you'll see that it's not richening up on 94 compared to 100 at the same boost level.

Borys, In the case of your car, provided the FPR and injectors are fine, I would be looking at the chips. Under full load @18 psi you're most likely relying on a predefined map which appears to be really rich. If you logged the signal from the SciVision you'll probably see you're maxing out the signal and no longer reading actual air mass and at that throttle angle you're not using the information from the 02 anyway. Try a chip swap with someone as I don't believe, based on what I've read in your posts, that it's a mechanical issue. If you had said it runs poorly or lacks power then I would have told you to start checking compression or looking for a bad vacuum leak

Spidey944

Jeremy, your posts are always enlightening. Thanks for not posting mundane and poorly thought out answers. EVER.

Airflite40

Thanks guys. RA pics are from this past weekend, the labor day PCA event. My friend club races his black S2.

Thanks for your input Jeremy, I just recently replaced my rod bearings, and they did not look bad, I mean no uneven or unusual wear.
I don't think the engine is running so rich that fuel is washing down the cylinders, But I think its running rich enough to blow black smoke when I hit boost according to what my friend saw.
I put the FQS in position 2 which is -3.1% fuel and the car seems to run less rich, doesn't backfire as much as it does at 0, but still runs very very strong.
The 3.0 FPR was installed new 1 yr ago same time when I changed the injectors.

I am starting to think its more chips, they are maxHp chips provided when I bought the MAF. Its possible they are not the correct configuration for the car, although the sticker on the chip matches the configuration I have. I really think that piggyback is the way to go for me now, once I get my wideband installed.

Papamurphdog

Well I'll be bitch slapped!
While it is true that Octane is not a measure of deflagration (burn) I did say it was "race gas" and while I do not have the formula handy, I was told by the Torco fuel folks that most race gas is not only formulated with high octane so you can run higher compression, or boost, or tune, or all of the above, but various race fuels are also formulated to provide provide different heat (thus, energy) at different compression, boost, tune levels. It is these other properties of "Race Gas" (like oxegenators, heptane, etc.) that help create fuel with a greater number of carbon bonds that will carry more energy. Other properties of gasoline and engine design also account for the manner at which deflagration takes place and at what flame speed. In my experience, 100 Octane race gas burns better and more completely in my car and in others. This is a fact, not BS. It's not because of the Octane and I did not say it was because of the Octane. Got that??

While I appreciate your dressing down, as you are certainly very knowledgeable and I do not disagre with your assertions, please don't assume I am a putz -- though, I play one on TV! My advice was simple and to the point. I did not say to add an Octane booster, I said to add "100 Octane race gas." Big difference. I did not assume he was a master mechanic with access to all the latest test gear and unlimited time either.

Filling the tank awith betrter quality racing gasoline with a higher octane rating and not stressing over a perfect tune was, and is still, solid advice. Perfecting his tune is also good advice. My doff my hat to you

I'm re-tuning over the witnter with new MAF, etc., and will let you know what I discover. FYI, happily I might add, I haven't touched the high boost setting in 12 months since it was set to 1 BAR before installing the 3" Fabspeed full exhaust with a custom 3" downpipe. It made 1.2BAR using the same setting post exhaust, on 93 pump, with a little black smoke. It was tuned by Powertech in NJ afte the exhaust went on. When I run 100 race it makes 1.45 BAR on the same exact setting and it most certainly is "burning" much better (which to anyone else would appear to be running "leaner," though not technically leaner) with virtualy no black smoke at all, and no residue.

Papamurphdog

Ok, I did say it was because of the octane, but I did not mean that. Will type more slowly next time.

In this instance you were correct in bitch slapping me. He might have added an octane booster instead and that would be bad.

My apologies. HOWEVER, the rest of my rebuttal post stands!!!

Jeremy Himsel

LOL. Under no circumstances was that a bitch slap. Or even intended as a mild one. Just a clarification and no I don't think your a putz. Besides Jersey exiles need to stick together.

HIGHBOOST

sorry to go slightly off topic here......But this theread has morphed into something quite interesting...

I understand octane rating is the level of resistance to spontaneous combustion, but does octane rating have an effect on flame speed?

fbgh2o

Apparently discussion of it does...

Animus

+1

+1 here as well.

I have the same problem, and was shown the meatball at the glenn. I figured it was the normal black smoke, but they said it would get worse. Since I couldn't see it, I called the track day quits, because I didn't want to wash down the cylinders. I haven't found the cause, but the culprits I intend on targetting at the FPR and the chips.