dmalo810

Okay, how many posts have we all seen on here talking about what oil should I use, how often should I change it and what weight?
Well, the search continues for the magic oil, you know "engine rebuild in a can". Cooler temps, less wear, higher oil pressure, that's what we want.

I was fortunate enough to attend an oil seminar put on by the Tennessee Tubs (see this months Excellence) a couple weekends ago. Wow, what an eye opener. LN Engineering put it on with Jake Raby of Raby Engines.

All of us can learn a lot about oils, new formulas and effects on our older engines. You can even get your oil tested to see when you need to change it, effects on wear and if you are using a good enough oil for your driving conditons. If you use Mobil 1, you need to review the write-ups, you'll be shocked.
Most interesting comment made... "If you change your oil every 3k miles, you may actually be doing more damage then good." Something to do with the chemical reaction in oil as it may not reach it's most effectiveness untill later in life. Hense why you are seeing newer cars recommending oil changes with longer intervals.

Go to www.lnengineering.com for all the coolness on this subject.

It's a lot of reading... enjoy.

ehall

Great article. Thanks for posting that.
Here's the write up guys.





Oil
What motor oil is best for my aircooled Porsche?
(or any high performance engine)
by Charles Navarro
Last Updated 07/31/08

The purpose of proper lubrication is to provide a physical barrier (oil film) that separates moving parts reducing wear and friction, but there are many surfaces within an engine that operate with metal-to-metal contact, again popular belief, that are very highly dependant on a strong and robust anti-wear film. The top piston ring operating in sliding contact with the bore operates in a mixed lubrication regime consisting of both boundary (metal-to-metal direct contact) as well as hydrodynamic (oil film between moving surfaces) lubrication. The majority of non-corrosive wear occurs where boundary lubrication exists, especially at cam lobes, tappets, cam follower/buckets, and rockers. Oils contain dispersants, friction modifiers, viscosity modifiers, anti-foam, anti-corrosion, antioxidant and anti-wear additives, all of which can affect the strength and durability of anti-wear films. The focus of this study is on the levels of zinc and phosphorus found in motor oils and their interactions with other additives, more exactly, the zinc (Zn) and phosphorus (P) that makes up the anti-wear additive ZDDP, zinc dialkyl dithiosphosphate, as the ZDDP level is causing concern for all older engines, including aircooled Porsches, with modern oils.

What general characteristics make motor oils specifically well suited to an aircooled or other high performance engine? Aside from recommendations issued by Porsche, what makes a good oil? These oils must be thermally stable, having a very high flashpoint, low noack volatility, and must “maintain proper lubrication and protect vital engine components under the extreme pressure and the high temperature conditions” found in aircooled Porsches. Porsche recommends and uses Mobil 1 0w40 as a factory fill in new vehicles and their 15w50 has been a popular choice used by many in the aftermarket in aircooled models. What was once considered a 'safe' oil is no longer as many of these lubricants have been reformulated for many reasons, not limited to allow for protection of emissions controls and for longer drain intervals.

Even prior to the introduction of the API's SM standard, there was concern that current API SL standards from back in 2003 may inhibit the backwards compatibility of motor oils, specifically referring to the limitation of ZDDP, which is "the most effective combined anti-wear and anti-oxidant additives currently available." SAE 2003-01-1957, Effect of Oil Drain Interval on Crankcase Lubricant Quality, Shell Global Solutions. The authors continue to state that oils are required to provide longer protection in severe operation but that an oils performance is "limited by environmental considerations." Furthermore, they state that it is hard to predict the effects of these reformulated oils in just a single oil change and may only be evident over an engine's lifetime. It is hard to know the full extent of the potential damage these new SM oils will have on our performance engines so chose your lubricants carefully.

Porsche’s recommendation in hand, our initial analysis from 2005 and 2006 and from virgin oil analyses going back to the 1990s, we found that then recent SH/SJ formulations of Mobil lubricants tested, including Mobil 1, have had higher Zn and P content than SL or current SM formulations. Even current "re-introduced" formulations are not the original formulations many shops and owners were used to. Aside from reduced Zn and P levels (now restored in certain products), many products with "adequate" Zn and P still use high levels of Ca detergents, well documented in various SAE publications as known for causing more wear than Ca/Mg or Ca/Mg/Na detergents, as previously used in oils like Mobil 1 15w50, back when it was API SH/SJ rated and prior to reformulation. This confirms the industry wide trend of the reduction of Zn and P from motor oils and switch to Ca-based detergents, with the eventual reduction to 0.06-0.08% or even worse, the elimination of these additives, which are essential to an aircooled Porsche engine's longevity.

Many Porsche repair shops have acknowledged that these newest SM and CJ-4 motor oils are not sufficient for protecting any Porsche engine. With longevity and the protection of vital engine components in mind, many shops are recommending non-approved motorcycle or racing oils, or the addition of oil supplements at every oil change, for their higher levels of protection.

Oil companies have been cutting back on the use of Zn and P as anti-wear additives and switching to alternative zinc-free (ZF) additives and ash-less dispersants in their new low SAPS oils since Zn, P, and sulfated ash have been found to be bad for catalytic converters. One such ZF dispersant/anti-wear additive is boron, which does not foul the catalysts in the particulate emissions filters or catalytic converters. For most owners, the reduction in longevity of a catalytic converter is a small price to pay considering the many thousands of dollars it costs to properly rebuild a Porsche engine. It is worth noting that most Porsches have lived the majority of their lives with high Zn and P oils as found in API SG-SJ oils as late as 2004, and we never hear of problems with their catalytic converters.

In addition to protecting emissions controls, there are many other design considerations in formulating engine lubricants, which include improving fuel economy and longer drain intervals. Many believe that the EPA has banned zinc and phosphorus in motor oils. This is not true. In response to modern engine design and longer emission control warranties which are required by the EPA, manufacturers have turned to reformulation of oils to do this, as well as to improve fuel economy by reducing fiction. High friction can result in areas with boundary lubrication or where high viscous friction forces and drag may occur with hydrodynamic lubrication in bearings. The use of friction modifiers, such as moly (there are many different species of Mo-based friction modifiers, help to reduce friction in metal-to-metal contact with the formation of tribofilms characterized with their glassy, slippery surfaces. Lower viscosity motor oils are key to increasing fuel economy by their reduction in drag where high viscous friction occurs in hydrodynamic lubrication. While lower viscosities improve fuel economy greatly, they also reduce the hydrodynamic film strength and high temperature high shear viscosity of the motor oil, factors both of which are key to protecting high performance engines, especially aircooled ones.

However, it is worth noting that these new API guidelines do not need apply to “racing,” “severe duty,” or any motor oils that do not carry an API “starburst” seal or clearly state for off-road-use only. Motor oils meeting “Energy Conserving I or II” standards should be avoided as well as those with an API SM or ILSAC GF-4 classifications. The European ACEA A3/B3 "mid-SAPS" classifications, which place a cap on P levels at 0.10-0.12% but allow for higher Zn levels, to be better in taking into consideration wear and engine longevity, setting much lower wear limits, while still limiting emissions and protecting emissions control devices. It is common to find API SJ rated oils, particularly those meeting Volkswagen's stringent 505.01 standard for PD TDI engines, to also meet ACEA A3/B3 requirements. The current ACEA A3/B3 classifications require higher high-temperature high-shear (HTHS) viscosities, stay in grade sheer stability, and tighter limits on evaporative loss (noack volatility), high temperature oxidation, and piston varnish. This makes oils meeting these ACEA standards that much better for your Porsche, especially since wear limits are much more stringent for valve train wear, 1/6th to 1/4th the wear allowed in the sequences for API's newest SM or CJ-4 standards. Of particular interest is the upcoming ACEA E9 standard to supersede the API CJ-4 standard in Europe, creating a classification for low ash oils that are low detergent and are very effective in controlling wear in legacy engines.

Failure to use the right oil, use proper filtration, or observe proper changing intervals can affect the performance of even the best motor oil. This also includes changing the oil too often (needlessly bad for the environment and your wallet) or not often enough. Against conventional wisdom, engine wear decreases as oil ages to a certain extent, which means that changing your oil more frequently actually causes engine wear; these findings were substantiated by studies conducted by the auto manufacturers and petroleum companies, leading to drain intervals increased from 3,000mi/3 months to 5,000-7,500mi/6 months in most domestic vehicles, using mostly non-synthetic oils. Based off of extremely long drain intervals recommended by most European manufacturers, some in excess of two years and 20,000 mi, some users have found it best to reduce those intervals by half or even a quarter. Porsche for the 2008MY has reduced their extended drain intervals significantly to one year/12,000 mi, which is actually less miles than Porsche recommended back in the 1990s with 964 and 993 based aircooled 911s. Based on UOAs provided to us by our customers, new Porsche owners should consider reducing their drain intervals further to no more than 9,000 mi or one year and some shops recommend changes every 6,000 mi or six months.

Vehicles with track time or sustained high oil temperatures or RPMs should have their oil changed after every event (or every other event). This translates to a total of about 10 hours max, with vehicles with 12 qt or higher oil capacities- engines with smaller capacities must be changed more often. Vehicles subjected to very short drives or sustained operation in heavy traffic should indeed be serviced more often. Likewise, vehicles not driven often but driven hard a few times a year can probably go a year between oil changes, but that doesn't mean you shouldn't use a good oil! Regular used oil analysis is the best way to determine ideal drain intervals for your driving habits - one good rule of thumb I have seen quoted is to change the oil with the TBN (total base number) is reduced by 50% of the original total (requiring you to also know your oil's virgin TBN). Another common recommendation is to change the oil once it's TAN (total acid number) equals the TBN. Other factors to consider are fuel dilution and shearing out of grade when determining your drain interval. With this knowledge in hand, using a quality motor oil with proper filtration and regular service is the best thing to do for your engine and to protect your investment.

Waterguy

I have been following this subject for a while. As a result, I was adding a ZDDP additive to my Mobil1 oil (GM Engine Oil Supplement [EOS] is usually the one recommended.) I have since switched to Redline 15W50, which does not meet the current API certifications and still has sufficient zinc additives to protect our flat-tappet engines.

spanky

Thanks for the info. Very detailed.

Lemming

Excellent, thanks.

rlm328

Please note that you can still buy SJ and SL oils through companies like NAPA. You can also purchase for "Not Street Legal" racing oils that have high ZDDP additives.

This is an interesting topic and it piqued my curiosity. I am now doing the internet shuffle and finding equal numbers of pro and con articles. Getting lazy here but are the zinc/ phosphorous products as good as the ZDDP products?

boston951

Great read with excellent info. If ehall likes, it's got to be good - thanks for posting the write-up.

I went with Agip motor oil for my last change (European product) but believe the level of ZDDP needs to be addressed based on the latest formula being sold.

Mike Lindsey

We realized the oil lubrication problem a couple of years back and have been heavily pusing Joe Gibbs oil and recently the ZDDPlus additive. Everybody should pay very close attention to that article. Just because your motor hasn't failed yet, doesn't mean it's not on it's way out. In particular, the flat tappet lifter valve train. Motors we have seen opened up after running these products show litttle or no wear.

Joe Gibbs Racing Oil

ZDDPlus Additive

sebastian944

I've been told from a Porsche instructor, that Synthetic oil is more prone to leak than regular oil. Is this true?

Mike Lindsey

We have seen cars running on synthetic that switched to dino and all the leaks quit within a few hundred miles. Cars running dino switching to synthetic and start to leak like a siv.

ehall

ofcourse if you fix the leaks, in the first place, it won't matter.

boston951

Before the Porsche, I had an older Corvette with a low-mile rebuilt engine and switched from regular dino oil to synthetic. The leaks strarted within six months. Now, with this in mind, I refuse to switch my low mile Porsche over to the synthetic oil.

CPR

So wait a minute... adding the Suaerkraut instead of EOS/ZDDP additive at every oil change was not good for my auto?....blimey...

333pg333

Charles Navarro has been one of the main proponents advocating oils with high or any ZDDP content. My mechanics have also been very active in expressing their views on this matter on various forums. To expound, they have over 35 years of day in day out experience working as Porsche trained mechanics and specialise on front engined and air cooled Porsches. They have seen cars with over 500,000 kms on the engine with very little sign of top end wear. Conversely they noticed along with quite a few other Porsche shops in Sydney that at a certain time there was a rapid proliferation of engine wear that coincided with the popularity of a certain high profile brand of oil. It got to the point that most of them changed back to a dino oil with high ZDDP contents and "Hey Presto, problem vanishes". Of course whenever an oil thread starts on any forum you get as many and passionate views as if you were discussing religion or sports. There is one particular person who seems to pop up in all these forums and pushes fully synthetic and light viscosity oils or even delvac oils made for trucks, and professes to have a high involvement in the industry. When people with decades of experience like Charles Navarro and others speak. It's well worth listening. Be aware when those who don't, tell you to use the wrong oils for our cars. Also be aware of what viscosity Porsche recommend for the climate that you live in. Many people are using too light a weight compared to the recommendation in the handbook that came with your car.
Good post.

dmalo810

Yeah, Charles said something about that. Sure, replace all the seals and all goes away. However, there is something to do with the grade of synthetic and it's almost magical ability to shrink seals.
Thanks ehall for posting the article.
Thanks Mike Lindsey for being the man in the know.