turbo water pump extended time relay
#1
Race Car
Thread Starter
turbo water pump extended time relay
I am wondering if anyone knows of an "extended time" relay for the turbo pump.
I am trying a new idea for engine cool down. I had the turbo pump on with the ignition switch feeding the back of the cylinder head. (If anyone has read my past threads they know why I did this).
I am looking for a longer timed relay so the pump will stay on for ~ 3-5 minutes instead of ~45 seconds.
anyone know of one??
I am trying a new idea for engine cool down. I had the turbo pump on with the ignition switch feeding the back of the cylinder head. (If anyone has read my past threads they know why I did this).
I am looking for a longer timed relay so the pump will stay on for ~ 3-5 minutes instead of ~45 seconds.
anyone know of one??
#3
Burning Brakes
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If you open up the relay, there's an 8-pin timer IC in there which is of the generic type NE555V. (there'll always be a "555" in the part number of any IC which meets this criteria somewhere...)
Pin 1 is closest to the little recessed "dot" in one corner of the IC, or a half-moon at the pin 1/pin 8 end... see this illustration:
Pins 6 and 7 will very likely be joined together by a circuit board trace, and there will be a capacitor between them and pin 1 (ground) which determines the monostable time period, which is what you want to change.
If you can MEASURE this capacitor, the I can tell you what the new value will need to be. -Basically you want to increase it by a factor of about eight to go from thirty seconds to about 4 minutes.
I have a spare one at home, -IF I REMEMBER, I can measure it for you, and show you what to add between pins 1 and 6/7 in order to increase the monostable period.
Keith
Pin 1 is closest to the little recessed "dot" in one corner of the IC, or a half-moon at the pin 1/pin 8 end... see this illustration:
Pins 6 and 7 will very likely be joined together by a circuit board trace, and there will be a capacitor between them and pin 1 (ground) which determines the monostable time period, which is what you want to change.
If you can MEASURE this capacitor, the I can tell you what the new value will need to be. -Basically you want to increase it by a factor of about eight to go from thirty seconds to about 4 minutes.
I have a spare one at home, -IF I REMEMBER, I can measure it for you, and show you what to add between pins 1 and 6/7 in order to increase the monostable period.
Keith
Last edited by VWaddict; 08-25-2008 at 05:19 PM.
#4
Race Car
Thread Starter
Brian, I had thought of that but for 2 reasons I am trying to stay with the relay and the factory stuff.
1 changing a relay is pretty easy (I am lazy)
2 a lot of people have converted to oil only turbos and using turbo pumps factory circuit to add cooling to rear of the engine seems like a good idea and other can do it very easy if the factory stuff is used
Keith, if you could do that I would appreciate it. I am not the most electronically technical guy so some "hand holding" may be in order
1 changing a relay is pretty easy (I am lazy)
2 a lot of people have converted to oil only turbos and using turbo pumps factory circuit to add cooling to rear of the engine seems like a good idea and other can do it very easy if the factory stuff is used
Keith, if you could do that I would appreciate it. I am not the most electronically technical guy so some "hand holding" may be in order
#5
Advanced
Not to stray from this post but how catastrophic would it be if you completely take the turbo pump relay out and allow the car to run 1/2 a minute after each drive?
#6
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#7
Race Car
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short term not much damage, long term turbo would be ruined.
the stock turbo, or any watercooled turbo for that matter, have far less area for the oil to cool the turbo and just not designed to run w/o water for extended periods.
I would ask why do that though, as it is there, and any extra cooling is beneficial.
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#8
I am wondering if anyone knows of an "extended time" relay for the turbo pump.
I am trying a new idea for engine cool down. I had the turbo pump on with the ignition switch feeding the back of the cylinder head. (If anyone has read my past threads they know why I did this).
I am looking for a longer timed relay so the pump will stay on for ~ 3-5 minutes instead of ~45 seconds.
anyone know of one??
I am trying a new idea for engine cool down. I had the turbo pump on with the ignition switch feeding the back of the cylinder head. (If anyone has read my past threads they know why I did this).
I am looking for a longer timed relay so the pump will stay on for ~ 3-5 minutes instead of ~45 seconds.
anyone know of one??
http://www.kfz-relais.com/html/Time_...ustable_en.htm
How did you plumb the turbo pump into the rear of the head? I assume it goes into the port from the heater core into the head, is it plumbed inline of this hose? Is your turbo then not water cooled?
#9
Race Car
Thread Starter
Ha, that would be great if I actually understood any of that data. If I am understanding this correctly it is doing the exact thing the stock relay does, just adjustable for time. I bet I could figure out a way to make an adaptor to replace the stock unit with one of these. Or wouldn't it be nice if it was a drop in
Yes I am running oil cooled only.
I have the line plumbed in where most people put the "steam vent" fitting
Yes I am running oil cooled only.
I have the line plumbed in where most people put the "steam vent" fitting
#10
Ha, that would be great if I actually understood any of that data. If I am understanding this correctly it is doing the exact thing the stock relay does, just adjustable for time. I bet I could figure out a way to make an adaptor to replace the stock unit with one of these. Or wouldn't it be nice if it was a drop in
Yes I am running oil cooled only.
I have the line plumbed in where most people put the "steam vent" fitting
Yes I am running oil cooled only.
I have the line plumbed in where most people put the "steam vent" fitting
For this paticular one:
All diagrams: The supply voltage is applied to terminal 30/87z. If the signal voltage is applied to terminal 15, the relay switches on. Is signal removed the relay switches off after the delay time has elapsed.
Constant power would go to terminal 30/87z, switched power(from ignition or termo switch) would go to terminal 15. Terminal 87 is the power going out to the pump. Pretty much any relay works in this manner, whether timed or not. The diagrams on the plastic cases say what goes where.
#11
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Well the stock relay has permanent power and then also gets a feed from TWO places: -One is a 'simple' trigger from the 'engine running' and the second is the thermal trigger measured at the turbo itself. It runs its delay after the 'engine run' trigger is REMOVED, and then it cycles off and on if the turbo temperature is above trigger threshold. -For that reason, the earlier linked product above is probably not an easy plug-n-play solution...
They sell variable-delay octal (and 11-pin) plug-in delay relays everywhere, but these possibly won't do, even if you adapt the base... can't say for sure though, as I've never tried.
Porsche engineered the turbo coolant pump relay to be fairly specific to that task, so a third-party plug-in may not work very well... although if you're changing the WAY that the cooling is done, that may or may not be a good thing for you?
I'll take photos of the dismantle-ment if you like.
Capacitances ADD TOGETHER in parallel, so luckily for you you don't actually have to remove the existing capacitor; -you can just solder one in parallel with the existing one. -I have a full selection of caps at home and here at work, so I can send you whatever you need to make it work, along with posting pictures of where to solder it.
Keith
They sell variable-delay octal (and 11-pin) plug-in delay relays everywhere, but these possibly won't do, even if you adapt the base... can't say for sure though, as I've never tried.
Porsche engineered the turbo coolant pump relay to be fairly specific to that task, so a third-party plug-in may not work very well... although if you're changing the WAY that the cooling is done, that may or may not be a good thing for you?
I'll take photos of the dismantle-ment if you like.
Capacitances ADD TOGETHER in parallel, so luckily for you you don't actually have to remove the existing capacitor; -you can just solder one in parallel with the existing one. -I have a full selection of caps at home and here at work, so I can send you whatever you need to make it work, along with posting pictures of where to solder it.
Keith
#12
Race Car
Thread Starter
Keith that sounds great.
I guess all I need to know is where to solder it and what I would need to get. I can probably figure that out by where the current capacitor is??
As far as what I am doing I just feel that the ball was dropped in regards to equal cylinder cooling from front of engine to rear and I am compensating with a spare part (it may not be the best choice but it is free)
On my other car I will use a decent electric pump with feeds at each cylinder. However this little experiment is teaching me how to make a delayed shutoff setup
I guess all I need to know is where to solder it and what I would need to get. I can probably figure that out by where the current capacitor is??
As far as what I am doing I just feel that the ball was dropped in regards to equal cylinder cooling from front of engine to rear and I am compensating with a spare part (it may not be the best choice but it is free)
On my other car I will use a decent electric pump with feeds at each cylinder. However this little experiment is teaching me how to make a delayed shutoff setup
#13
Well the stock relay has permanent power and then also gets a feed from TWO places: -One is a 'simple' trigger from the 'engine running' and the second is the thermal trigger measured at the turbo itself. It runs its delay after the 'engine run' trigger is REMOVED, and then it cycles off and on if the turbo temperature is above trigger threshold. -For that reason, the earlier linked product above is probably not an easy plug-n-play solution...
#14
Race Car
Thread Starter