Anybody running spec 3+ clutch
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Anybody running spec 3+ clutch
Spec indicates the 3+ should be good to about 600lbs torque.
and after break in should be reasonable for street use.
Think it is what I will end up going with. Anybody running this setup?
and after break in should be reasonable for street use.
Think it is what I will end up going with. Anybody running this setup?
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I don't recall the exact Spec 3 I had for it's been so long, but the traits the clutch had were, for me, were horrible for a street car. I am sure if you did a search you would find tons of info on it. The TQ rating is excellent, probably more than enough for your car, you just need to determine via research if you can deal with the characteristics that Specs can have. Some people like them very much, but not me, I wouldn't ever buy another one for street applications.
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I think of them the same I think of Specs, both have a ****ty pedal feel. Its like sticking your foot in half melted butter or something. Both are very switch like in their pedal feel, a different force at the top than at the bottom. Drive a car with a Spec to see if you like that feel, I personally cant stand it.
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I think of them the same I think of Specs, both have a ****ty pedal feel. Its like sticking your foot in half melted butter or something. Both are very switch like in their pedal feel, a different force at the top than at the bottom. Drive a car with a Spec to see if you like that feel, I personally cant stand it.
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asking a bout a specific SPEC clutch - the 3+
Giving a general statement without any details on what clutch is not helpful.
For example - Expecting a solid center puck disc to be anything but notchy ON/OFF engagement is absurd. These function as designed and intended
Chatter, and instant engagement are just fine for a race car
What SPEC clutch have you driven edge? how much driving? was it a new install or broken in?
Giving a general statement without any details on what clutch is not helpful.
For example - Expecting a solid center puck disc to be anything but notchy ON/OFF engagement is absurd. These function as designed and intended
Chatter, and instant engagement are just fine for a race car
What SPEC clutch have you driven edge? how much driving? was it a new install or broken in?
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asking a bout a specific SPEC clutch - the 3+
Giving a general statement without any details on what clutch is not helpful.
For example - Expecting a solid center puck disc to be anything but notchy ON/OFF engagement is absurd. These function as designed and intended
Chatter, and instant engagement are just fine for a race car
What SPEC clutch have you driven edge? how much driving? was it a new install or broken in?
Giving a general statement without any details on what clutch is not helpful.
For example - Expecting a solid center puck disc to be anything but notchy ON/OFF engagement is absurd. These function as designed and intended
Chatter, and instant engagement are just fine for a race car
What SPEC clutch have you driven edge? how much driving? was it a new install or broken in?
I prefer the KEP because its feel is stockish, you have a smooth continuous force from the top to the bottom. Way better and easier to drive with, but again thats my opinion. Some people like Specs, some dont. I fall into the dont catagory.
Edit: All were broken in with several thousand kms on them.
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Thanks Rolex - search had not turned up that thread
leaning against the KEP setup - fork loads are increased -> fatigue/breakage
That ends race weekends - If the trade off is a bit of chatter then so be it.
from other thread -
Kep= high pedal effort, but easy modulation (progressive)
Spec= lower pedal effort, but on/off (difficult) modulation
My car is far from a daily driver, but sees plenty of street driving. I don't expect or require a silky smooth clutch, just one that drives reasonable on the street and will live through the track use it will be subject.
I would love the opportunity to drive a 3+ before I buy one...... anybody got one I can drive?
______________________________________________
Thanks edge - that is good feedback
leaning against the KEP setup - fork loads are increased -> fatigue/breakage
That ends race weekends - If the trade off is a bit of chatter then so be it.
from other thread -
Kep= high pedal effort, but easy modulation (progressive)
Spec= lower pedal effort, but on/off (difficult) modulation
My car is far from a daily driver, but sees plenty of street driving. I don't expect or require a silky smooth clutch, just one that drives reasonable on the street and will live through the track use it will be subject.
I would love the opportunity to drive a 3+ before I buy one...... anybody got one I can drive?
______________________________________________
Thanks edge - that is good feedback
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Thanks Rolex - search had not turned up that thread
leaning against the KEP setup - fork loads are increased -> fatigue/breakage
That ends race weekends - If the trade off is a bit of chatter then so be it.
from other thread -
Kep= high pedal effort, but easy modulation (progressive)
Spec= lower pedal effort, but on/off (difficult) modulation
My car is far from a daily driver, but sees plenty of street driving. I don't expect or require a silky smooth clutch, just one that drives reasonable on the street and will live through the track use it will be subject.
I would love the opportunity to drive a 3+ before I buy one...... anybody got one I can drive?
leaning against the KEP setup - fork loads are increased -> fatigue/breakage
That ends race weekends - If the trade off is a bit of chatter then so be it.
from other thread -
Kep= high pedal effort, but easy modulation (progressive)
Spec= lower pedal effort, but on/off (difficult) modulation
My car is far from a daily driver, but sees plenty of street driving. I don't expect or require a silky smooth clutch, just one that drives reasonable on the street and will live through the track use it will be subject.
I would love the opportunity to drive a 3+ before I buy one...... anybody got one I can drive?
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yes current slippping clutch is as new "cup" new everything, bearings,pin, etc. when installed a few thousand miles ago. Not hung up bin/fork bearings in this case
still may look into the fork though
still may look into the fork though