Anybody running spec 3+ clutch
#16
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I know you are asking about the 3+, which I have never used. But because so many people hate spec clutches I felt I should jump in and share my experience.
I have a stage 2, with LWFW and Aluminum reinforced pressure plate. I love it. It modulates very well and holds really well. I would say that I abuse it based on the fact I track it and use it on the drag strip. It never slips at all either off the line or between very hard shifts.
I think they make good pressure plates and you seem to know what you are going to get based on what disc you pick, you are right in saying with a stage 3 you should only expect on/off, thats what they do.
What makes you want a clutch that can hold 600ft/lbs?
I have a stage 2, with LWFW and Aluminum reinforced pressure plate. I love it. It modulates very well and holds really well. I would say that I abuse it based on the fact I track it and use it on the drag strip. It never slips at all either off the line or between very hard shifts.
I think they make good pressure plates and you seem to know what you are going to get based on what disc you pick, you are right in saying with a stage 3 you should only expect on/off, thats what they do.
What makes you want a clutch that can hold 600ft/lbs?
#17
Three Wheelin'
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I have the six puck kevlar sprung stage III SPEC setup with lightweight flywheel and lighter weight extra clamping force pressure plate option! Its bolted up to a 375 HP 3.0 liter 8 valve engine with a 6 speed ZF LSD transaxle! I find it very easy to drive on the street with very little babying! However you cannot fall asleep at stop signs for fear of killing your engine, but for heavy RPM launches and sheer strength it beats them all, a centerforce would have worn twice as much if not blown up by now if I had used it! I wouldnt go with a missed match setup like a 930 disc with some other PP! Get a matched set as your engine and left foot will thank you as will your hours less spent on maintenance!
#18
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: out in the sticks and flat lands of va wondering around for an open field or pavement!!!
Posts: 1,384
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Ok here goes my 2 cents. I have the spec stage 3 clutch( kevlar/ceremic sprung), scaloped flywheel and aluim pressure plate saposely good for 700ft/lbs. and i haven't had a problem with it works great for me on track/street use. So far hold down bout 20 hours of track time and thousands of drivin hours on the highways.![thumbup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/thumbup.gif)
costas
![thumbup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/thumbup.gif)
costas
#19
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
This sort of thread never seems to fail in getting such varied opinions. I had a Blaszak modified PP and Clutchnet sprung 6 puk and this was just not good for driving in traffic. I think it contributed to my rear CV bolts getting so loose that they sheared off and I came to a nice stop in the middle of nowhere. (Top day out that was...NOT). If you really don't have much traffic to create stop start conditions then you could probably live with the sort of setup you're looking at. The advantage is that the shifting is superb. There is no slack or waiting to go again once in another gear. It's just 1st bang 2nd bang 3rd bang etc Not good for the car of course but just a dream on the track. I'm going back to a KEPII and a Cup disc for the road/track car. The track car will have something quite different I think.
#20
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Melbourne, Florida
Posts: 942
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I have the Spec stage 2 with a lightened factory flywheel. It's been great and doesn't chatter one bit. It does have more grab during engagement that a stock clutch but nothing bad at all. It's smooth to take of and even my wife can get in my car and drive it just fine. In fact, she hasen't driven a manual car regularly for over four years, just occasionaly pulling my car out of the garage, and I had her drive my car around recently while doing some tuning and she had no problems driving it smooth at all in traffic. I do have the S2 gearbox, so that may make it a little easier to take of with as well.
#21
Racer
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Maryborough, Queensland, Australia.
Posts: 329
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I'll throw my opinion out there. I've got a SPEC Stage 2, on a light flywheel.
The clutch is definately an on/off deal, but its not that bad that you cant live with it.
The clutch does chatter, especially in reverse.
I personally dont mind this setup, but having said that, I will be going to a KEP 2 and 930 disk when I have the motor out next. I'm chasing a smoother engagement, and from the sounds of it, the KEP will do just that.
The clutch is definately an on/off deal, but its not that bad that you cant live with it.
The clutch does chatter, especially in reverse.
I personally dont mind this setup, but having said that, I will be going to a KEP 2 and 930 disk when I have the motor out next. I'm chasing a smoother engagement, and from the sounds of it, the KEP will do just that.
#22
Hey Man
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I'm curious at what point the OE clutch fork is overstressed? Seems there have been at lot of failures lately,even with stock PP's. After all that money and labor it would be a bitch to have a fork fail. I have yet to see a used pivot shaft without some galling. Why did Porsche make it a roller bearing on shaft design rather than a sealed bearing? I just had to replace 2 axles on my Ranger due to roller on axle wear so I'm a bit touchy about bearing design!
#23
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
yeah i put a clutch in a car for a guy w/ a broken fork- stock motor and clutch. As for the 930 disc w/ a cup clutch i love these but at 350+ hp they are maxed out- mine started to slip alittle after a short run at 21psi. Turned the boost down and she was fine, so im interested to see what the best clutch setup is for over 350rwhp.
#25
Drifting
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: midwest
Posts: 2,931
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I take all vendor specs with a grain of salt. When I am told "around 600lbs" - that tells me there is a margin for error, and that may be a bit optimistic.
Once an appropriate clutch is in E85 with 20psi will be my baseline. I will go 160+mph in the standing mile, and I think that will get me there and then some.
But you know how these things are....... I have already begun to entertain big valve head and cam thoughts........... the stage2 spec may be close in the future. Over buying now will ensures I don't have to do it again.
Once an appropriate clutch is in E85 with 20psi will be my baseline. I will go 160+mph in the standing mile, and I think that will get me there and then some.
But you know how these things are....... I have already begun to entertain big valve head and cam thoughts........... the stage2 spec may be close in the future. Over buying now will ensures I don't have to do it again.
#26
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
yeah i put a clutch in a car for a guy w/ a broken fork- stock motor and clutch. As for the 930 disc w/ a cup clutch i love these but at 350+ hp they are maxed out- mine started to slip alittle after a short run at 21psi. Turned the boost down and she was fine, so im interested to see what the best clutch setup is for over 350rwhp.
#27
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
#28
Drifting
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: midwest
Posts: 2,931
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Rolex - we think along the same lines - I talked with spec techs before even starting this thread.
The 3 or 3+ was the recommendation as the 2 may be approaching the limit. Honestly hard to say as I only speculate about actual Numbers with E85 and 20psi. And who knows with big valve head and cam.
They also advised the 3+ once broke in would be a bit more street pleasant than the 3, but that either is very streetable. They are really pushing the 3+ for it's increased longevity and modulation over the 3. I like the idea of retaining the sprung center of 3+ vs the solid puck disc of the 3
If goes according to plan I will not do clutch until the snow flies. Hope to get through the rest of the summer and 2 track days with the current clutch.... no high rpm launches or bang shifting 4th and 5th.
The 3 or 3+ was the recommendation as the 2 may be approaching the limit. Honestly hard to say as I only speculate about actual Numbers with E85 and 20psi. And who knows with big valve head and cam.
They also advised the 3+ once broke in would be a bit more street pleasant than the 3, but that either is very streetable. They are really pushing the 3+ for it's increased longevity and modulation over the 3. I like the idea of retaining the sprung center of 3+ vs the solid puck disc of the 3
If goes according to plan I will not do clutch until the snow flies. Hope to get through the rest of the summer and 2 track days with the current clutch.... no high rpm launches or bang shifting 4th and 5th.
#29
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I hate the spec3 its the wrost pedal feel ever. I love how the kepII with the 6 puck clutch feels. The pedal withe kep feels like stock but a little stiffer than stock. Spec i can never get use it.