Clutch problem.. Kep PP, 930 and spec FW
09-11-2008, 12:15 AM
#31
Official Rennlist
Borat Impersonator
Rennlist Member
Borat Impersonator
Rennlist Member
not true.
I have a 930 disk and KEP 1 pp, and mine is fine. The key lies in the flywheel.
Search the archives, this has been discussed before, You cannot use a 930 disk with a KEP 1 and a fidanza flywheel.
I have the 930, KEP, and stock flywheel and my clutch is just fine. I researched this at length before doing my clutch job.
From what I remember you can do 930+KEP+stock flywheel, or 951cup+KEP+fidanza.
Hope this helps.
I have a 930 disk and KEP 1 pp, and mine is fine. The key lies in the flywheel.
Search the archives, this has been discussed before, You cannot use a 930 disk with a KEP 1 and a fidanza flywheel.
I have the 930, KEP, and stock flywheel and my clutch is just fine. I researched this at length before doing my clutch job.
From what I remember you can do 930+KEP+stock flywheel, or 951cup+KEP+fidanza.
Hope this helps.
09-11-2008, 12:17 AM
#32
The Impaler
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
not true.
I have a 930 disk and KEP 1 pp, and mine is fine. The key lies in the flywheel.
Search the archives, this has been discussed before, You cannot use a 930 disk with a KEP 1 and a fidanza flywheel.
I have the 930, KEP, and stock flywheel and my clutch is just fine. I researched this at length before doing my clutch job.
From what I remember you can do 930+KEP+stock flywheel, or 951cup+KEP+fidanza.
Hope this helps.
I have a 930 disk and KEP 1 pp, and mine is fine. The key lies in the flywheel.
Search the archives, this has been discussed before, You cannot use a 930 disk with a KEP 1 and a fidanza flywheel.
I have the 930, KEP, and stock flywheel and my clutch is just fine. I researched this at length before doing my clutch job.
From what I remember you can do 930+KEP+stock flywheel, or 951cup+KEP+fidanza.
Hope this helps.
Since that is what the OP has, that would be a problem.
09-11-2008, 06:28 AM
#34
Pro
Thread Starter
Guys .. The SPEC FW is 1mm thicker than OEM at the base..
The depth from friction area to top of base is the same. However replacing the FW did gain me 1-2mm moore , but still not enough . Indicating that my problem might be elsewhere or a combination of several things.
At this moment I have boltet up Stock FW, 930 Disc and stock PP and the clutch fork is still to close to front of bellhousing and therefore limiting throw.
I have not bolted up sentral tube ,, would that make any difference?
I shall bolt up the oem clutch disc, pp and FW to see how that would go ,
and I will hook up a micrometer to the crank to check for play.
The depth from friction area to top of base is the same. However replacing the FW did gain me 1-2mm moore , but still not enough . Indicating that my problem might be elsewhere or a combination of several things.
At this moment I have boltet up Stock FW, 930 Disc and stock PP and the clutch fork is still to close to front of bellhousing and therefore limiting throw.
I have not bolted up sentral tube ,, would that make any difference?
I shall bolt up the oem clutch disc, pp and FW to see how that would go ,
and I will hook up a micrometer to the crank to check for play.
09-12-2008, 02:43 PM
#35
Pro
Thread Starter
Youd be surprised, can you slide the crank back and forth at all by hand? You might be able to if you reef on it with the slave cyl unbolted. Basically, if you can slide it back and forth at all, the thrust bearing is blown.
Mine had close to 2MM axial play in the crank, I think it was 1.75MM or something.
Mine had close to 2MM axial play in the crank, I think it was 1.75MM or something.
I`m getting a new clutch fork to see If that helps.
09-12-2008, 02:59 PM
#36
Drifting
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At this point I would put your stock parts in and establish a baseline.
all stock parts installed - get measurements
change one part - PP - get measure ments.
go back and change another single part - FW - get measure ments
etc.
Then do rough math what you expect to find combining parts.
Assemble with multiple changes from stock FW/PP and get real measurement and compare to expected
this way you can at least get a grasp on if one single item is throwing everything off, or several
all stock parts installed - get measurements
change one part - PP - get measure ments.
go back and change another single part - FW - get measure ments
etc.
Then do rough math what you expect to find combining parts.
Assemble with multiple changes from stock FW/PP and get real measurement and compare to expected
this way you can at least get a grasp on if one single item is throwing everything off, or several
09-12-2008, 03:07 PM
#37
Pro
Thread Starter
2bridges .. I`m in the proccess of doing just that .. But did the measuring of cranck play before start the assembly of Oem parts.
It is a bit Time consuming to take on/off pp/clutch disc several times.
Also looking at clutch fork and old To bearing shows some wear..
It is a bit Time consuming to take on/off pp/clutch disc several times.
Also looking at clutch fork and old To bearing shows some wear..
09-17-2008, 05:48 PM
#40
Pro
Thread Starter
09-17-2008, 09:41 PM
#41
Rennlist Member
This just happenned to me when I put mine together. The forum suggested having someone push the clutch pedal in while someone else push the driveshaft in. Worked like a charm!!! Just make sure you have the driveshaft in when you push the clutch in, or the disk will fall down and you'll have to take everything apart again ... ask me how I know ...
