Turbo removal
08-15-2008, 02:15 AM
#16
Also you don't have to remove the downpipe with the turbo in the car! The downpipe can be pulled with the turbo, just remove the three nuts that hold it to the test pipe. Disconnect the xover pipe, then remove the two bolts that hold the turbo to the engine support and VIOLA! You can then remove the downpipe (if you want) with the turbo on the work bench. MUCh easier IMO.
-Darwin
-Darwin
08-15-2008, 12:23 PM
#17
Rennlist Member
If you haven't yet, take a look at Tom's excellent write up.
http://members.rennlist.com/tom86951...ocharger_r.htm
http://members.rennlist.com/tom86951...ocharger_r.htm
http://members.rennlist.com/tom86951/headgasket.htm
08-15-2008, 12:43 PM
#18
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Rennlist Member
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Lots of good information. If your fuel lines are the original ones, moving them might cause cracks. Now is the time to inspect them, replace if needed.
08-15-2008, 01:34 PM
#20
I can't say how many times that's saved my nuts and bolts from snapping! Soak the xover bolts and downpipe-testpipe bolts VERY well before you try and take them off.
08-15-2008, 01:55 PM
#21
Three Wheelin'
When you go to remove the two turbo mounting bolts, make sure your allen wrench is seated all the way into the head. I almost stripped one, which would be nightmare. You don't need to use a ball allen, a straight one on a wobble extension works. Don't skip the clark's garage step of unbolting the steering rack, you will need to slide the long extension up between the rack and the mount to get to the turbo mounting bolts (that's how I did it anyway.) You might also want to order a complete set of exhaust hardware from Rennbay, it also includes new turbo mount bolts.
08-15-2008, 03:14 PM
#22
When you go to remove the two turbo mounting bolts, make sure your allen wrench is seated all the way into the head. I almost stripped one, which would be nightmare. You don't need to use a ball allen, a straight one on a wobble extension works. Don't skip the clark's garage step of unbolting the steering rack, you will need to slide the long extension up between the rack and the mount to get to the turbo mounting bolts (that's how I did it anyway.) You might also want to order a complete set of exhaust hardware from Rennbay, it also includes new turbo mount bolts.
How's it going so far?
08-15-2008, 03:43 PM
#24
08-15-2008, 05:08 PM
#27
Drifting
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Michigan
Posts: 2,023
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yes lots of good info.
On my car I can remove the turbo almost entirely from the top. The only reason I need to jack up the car is for the three downpipe bolts.
Some of this has been said but here's some things off the top of my head, having done this about 25 times.
The pain in the but downpipe to block bolt can easily not be a pain in the butt by using a short socket with a 1/4 ratchet. It fits perfectly.
The three 17mm(sometimes 16mm) downpipe bolts can be easily accessed from underneath with straight extensions. The downpipe stays with the turbo when removing.
The steering rack DOES NOT need to be touched. You can use a wobble allen but I prefer to remove the alternator instead and then you free up a TON of room. You can use a ratchet with a allen bit on the lower bolts from the top. Mine has a much smaller alternator so I don't need to remove it.
Also when removing the steering knuckle heat shield, you may have to turn the wheel in different directions until it can be slid out. It's a tight fit but will wiggle out.
Get a new oil line or aftermarket oil line kit, unless you know for a fact yours is good. These break apart inside and the slightest chuck of the broken plastic will quickly destroy the bearings in a new turbo.
Remember you can clock the hot and cold side of turbo(just adding this bc it's been asked ALOT).
There's plenty of other things I could go on and on but most are more specific then what needs to be listed here.
uhh pics...Here's some I have from a couple weeks ago.
On my car I can remove the turbo almost entirely from the top. The only reason I need to jack up the car is for the three downpipe bolts.
Some of this has been said but here's some things off the top of my head, having done this about 25 times.
The pain in the but downpipe to block bolt can easily not be a pain in the butt by using a short socket with a 1/4 ratchet. It fits perfectly.
The three 17mm(sometimes 16mm) downpipe bolts can be easily accessed from underneath with straight extensions. The downpipe stays with the turbo when removing.
The steering rack DOES NOT need to be touched. You can use a wobble allen but I prefer to remove the alternator instead and then you free up a TON of room. You can use a ratchet with a allen bit on the lower bolts from the top. Mine has a much smaller alternator so I don't need to remove it.
Also when removing the steering knuckle heat shield, you may have to turn the wheel in different directions until it can be slid out. It's a tight fit but will wiggle out.
Get a new oil line or aftermarket oil line kit, unless you know for a fact yours is good. These break apart inside and the slightest chuck of the broken plastic will quickly destroy the bearings in a new turbo.
Remember you can clock the hot and cold side of turbo(just adding this bc it's been asked ALOT).
There's plenty of other things I could go on and on but most are more specific then what needs to be listed here.
uhh pics...Here's some I have from a couple weeks ago.
08-15-2008, 08:37 PM
#29
Banned
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Youngstown (14174), New York
Posts: 469
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I am at the turbo, tomorrow is another day. I am tired. keep your fingers crossed I can put it all back together! haha 
have a good one.
have a good one.