MrPorsche951

Say a prayer to the Porsche Gods for me. Tomorrow I am replacing my K26/6 Turbo. I have studied Clarks-Garage and printed off a few Rennlist articles to help me along the way.

The only part I am nervous about is removing the Fuel Rail. Does anyone have any tips or common mistakes that I should be aware of?
Ready to sweat out in the driveway for 10 hours tomorow!

Darwantae951

When you remove the fuel rail, you don't have to remove the injectors. All you have to do is remove the four bolts (two in the cam cover, two in the head) and gently pull it off. The injectors have clips where they stick into the rail to help hold them in. This is what my car looked like for almost two weeks:

MrPorsche951

Excuse my ignorance Darwin,
Do I have to do anything to the fuel rail other than unbolt and pull ? I just know I'm going to be drenched in gasoline within 10 minutes


Why was your car like that for 2 weeks?

Bri Bro

The two bolts that hold the turbo on can be a bit hard to get out and then there are the exhaust bolts.

If you bleed off the fuel pressure by removing the front plug on the fuel rail, you don't give the engine a gas bath. I just put a rag under the rail and open up the garage. You can also remove the fuel pump fuse and run the car until it runs out of gas . After you remove the four bolts, just pull it off.

Darwantae951

That's all I did. If one of the injectors pops off then you'll get fuel, but there isn't that much in the rail.

MrPorsche951

thanks guys


I'd love as many pointers as I can get

Darwantae951

I just pulled my turbo last week. You can PM me any questions you have about the process. I don't have that many pictures, but do have a few.

fbgh2o

I am not a very capable mechanic (say 3 or 4 on a scale of 10) and followed the Clark's Garage instructions for fuel rail removal and it went without a hitch. You might find it worth replacing the injector seals and hats while you are doing as the cost is negligible (may $10).

cosmo303

Start spraying the bolts now with penetrating lubricant.

F18Rep

1) don't lose the ball bearing under the rail bleed fitting.
2) the small bolts on the upper side of the rail are really short, longer ones will bottom out and then break off in trying to tighten them.
3)Avoid disaster and stick a rag in the hole near the sensors - small items get sucked in there somehow.
4)Seal rings are expensive, but a leaker will fail safety inspections.

5)the shear number of parts that have to come off is a little depressing.

6)broken studs/bolts are the norm.

7)Change the o2 sensor and route the cable carefully - a melted cable = a tow.
8)Expect a fuel leak the first time you restart.
9)If you're going to gut the cat, now is the time.
10) Be sure to tighten up all the heat shields, they tend to make a racket when left loose.
Bruce

hally

to help prevent any gunk from falling into the engine, clean the engine or give it a good blast with the air compressor before removing the intake manifold.

MrPorsche951

Invaluable information. Thanks everyone! Darwin, expect atleast a few PMs tomorrow haha

87944turbo

If you haven't yet, take a look at Tom's excellent write up.

http://members.rennlist.com/tom86951...ocharger_r.htm

MrPorsche951

Tom, brilliant article.

I will post my progress through the day with pictures. Thanks again for the help and ideas.

KLR

Fuel rail removal is actually really easy. However, you can skip it and just leave the fuel rail on the manifold when you pull the intake manifold. Leave the fuel lines connected as well and simply flip the the manifold over and place it upside down near the battery with everything still attached. If you do disconnect the lines, be sure to pull the fuel pump fuse while the car is running to drain the rail as much as possible. After you pull the fuse, the car will run for a few seconds at idle until it runs out of gas.