Lindsey Racing fuel rail installation questions.
#1
Lindsey Racing fuel rail installation questions.
I got my fuel rail unused but from a third party and consequently didn't get any instructions.
1. Do most people have to shorten the -6 AN line going from the afpr to the damper at the end of the rail. I mounted the afpr that comes with the kit where most do - on the front wall of the battery box, and the line is way to long (2-3") and would have to be contorted to fit smoothly.
2. What is the recommended sealing agent for the straight thread fitting going into the end of the rail, in the damper and the afpr? Teflon tape? Pipe dope?
Thanks for the help.
1. Do most people have to shorten the -6 AN line going from the afpr to the damper at the end of the rail. I mounted the afpr that comes with the kit where most do - on the front wall of the battery box, and the line is way to long (2-3") and would have to be contorted to fit smoothly.
2. What is the recommended sealing agent for the straight thread fitting going into the end of the rail, in the damper and the afpr? Teflon tape? Pipe dope?
Thanks for the help.
#2
I left some slack in the short line to accomadate for the engine moving. Also for sealing the fittings there is this teflon like stuff gasiola http://www.petrodirect.com/product.asp?productID=1144 that is gasoline safe. Although some just use regular teflon tape but skip the first few threads.
Hope that helps
Hope that helps
#5
I got my fuel rail unused but from a third party and consequently didn't get any instructions.
1. Do most people have to shorten the -6 AN line going from the afpr to the damper at the end of the rail. I mounted the afpr that comes with the kit where most do - on the front wall of the battery box, and the line is way to long (2-3") and would have to be contorted to fit smoothly.
2. What is the recommended sealing agent for the straight thread fitting going into the end of the rail, in the damper and the afpr? Teflon tape? Pipe dope?
Thanks for the help.
1. Do most people have to shorten the -6 AN line going from the afpr to the damper at the end of the rail. I mounted the afpr that comes with the kit where most do - on the front wall of the battery box, and the line is way to long (2-3") and would have to be contorted to fit smoothly.
2. What is the recommended sealing agent for the straight thread fitting going into the end of the rail, in the damper and the afpr? Teflon tape? Pipe dope?
Thanks for the help.
#6
The braided return line is designed to be mounted inside the wheel well, whihc means cutting the metal return line and using a compression fitting provided by Lindsey. In a stock configuration the metal fuel return and feed lines end in the engin bay directly over the header and many feel this is not too safe, particularly as the lines use standard hose clamps. The Lindsey system is sized so you can move return and feed connections into the wheel well area. that is why the line is so long. I am actually doing this job on my car in a few days and will be snapping a few photos for out fellow Rennlister's. BTW, the first set of comppression fitings that came were wrong. However one call to Linsdey and I had the correct set overnight. Nice of him to do so. These fittings are designed to mate to AN fittings directly. We'll see how long it takes and how it turns out soon. Stay tuned...
#7
Just in case someone searches in the future I tracked down the individual install instructions for the Fuelab regulator and the Marren damper/mounting tee on their respective websites. Fuelab recommends teflon tape for the pressure gauge and the vacuum barb fitting - the rest of the fittings are o-ringed, although I seem to be missing one. Marren recommends a teflon sealent on the two npt fittings, the -AN flare fitting obviously doesn't need any.
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#9
Rennlist Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 8,809
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From: In the garage trying to keep boost down
Teflon helped with the leaking fittings. Even thou you should not use teflon tape because they are AN fittings and if not done correctly it can always get in the fuel rail. The only thing that should go on the AN fittings are the special anti seize made for AN fittings of course if its made correctly