Fnding a Car to Purchase is Such a Pain
#16
this one may be for sale this week or next, his boys are just getting to tall for the backseat. He's looking at M5's right now. Just a bit over your budget at $13.5k. I'll know for sure the end of this week if he wants to sell.
Fresh rebuild, LR 340 kit, tuned perfect, new A/C, new tires this week, refinished Fuchs, LR 3 inch exhaust, and absolutely beautiful new paint - that includes all new wx stripping and window felt. All the new stone guards are on, as is the new crest now. 86, 88k orig, & new 968CS steering wheel. no dash cracks, great seats, he may or may not have new mats. Newly rebuilt control arms from SSI Auto, new front welt bushings and 968 castor blocks. And....LSD.
Fresh rebuild, LR 340 kit, tuned perfect, new A/C, new tires this week, refinished Fuchs, LR 3 inch exhaust, and absolutely beautiful new paint - that includes all new wx stripping and window felt. All the new stone guards are on, as is the new crest now. 86, 88k orig, & new 968CS steering wheel. no dash cracks, great seats, he may or may not have new mats. Newly rebuilt control arms from SSI Auto, new front welt bushings and 968 castor blocks. And....LSD.
#19
this one may be for sale this week or next, his boys are just getting to tall for the backseat. He's looking at M5's right now. Just a bit over your budget at $13.5k. I'll know for sure the end of this week if he wants to sell.
Fresh rebuild, LR 340 kit, tuned perfect, new A/C, new tires this week, refinished Fuchs, LR 3 inch exhaust, and absolutely beautiful new paint - that includes all new wx stripping and window felt. All the new stone guards are on, as is the new crest now. 86, 88k orig, & new 968CS steering wheel. no dash cracks, great seats, he may or may not have new mats. Newly rebuilt control arms from SSI Auto, new front welt bushings and 968 castor blocks. And....LSD.
Fresh rebuild, LR 340 kit, tuned perfect, new A/C, new tires this week, refinished Fuchs, LR 3 inch exhaust, and absolutely beautiful new paint - that includes all new wx stripping and window felt. All the new stone guards are on, as is the new crest now. 86, 88k orig, & new 968CS steering wheel. no dash cracks, great seats, he may or may not have new mats. Newly rebuilt control arms from SSI Auto, new front welt bushings and 968 castor blocks. And....LSD.
#20
IB,
Hopefully, you were not referencing me in your initial post, because there was no feedback from you after I sent you some facts on the car. Furthermore, with respect to any problems on my car I prefer to be open and honest and allow the buyer to make the decision based on facts, after all I have to live with myself. I used my car for weekends mainly, so I install the A/C delete kit, the water leak as I mentioned related to some damage around the water jacket becaue the bolt broke when removing the head, that issue has been resolved, then with respect to the A/F, I said you should take the car to the dyno because the A/F ratio needed to be properly set as I had just added the mafterburner. This is honest and specific information that cannot be attained by looking at the car, but that's just me.
biggles
Hopefully, you were not referencing me in your initial post, because there was no feedback from you after I sent you some facts on the car. Furthermore, with respect to any problems on my car I prefer to be open and honest and allow the buyer to make the decision based on facts, after all I have to live with myself. I used my car for weekends mainly, so I install the A/C delete kit, the water leak as I mentioned related to some damage around the water jacket becaue the bolt broke when removing the head, that issue has been resolved, then with respect to the A/F, I said you should take the car to the dyno because the A/F ratio needed to be properly set as I had just added the mafterburner. This is honest and specific information that cannot be attained by looking at the car, but that's just me.
biggles
#21
It's Charcoal (metallic), not sure of the official P-car color, black interior. It's an 86 color.
BTW, car is in Northern MS, just 15 miles south of Memphis and it comes to Heber Springs AR as well. Easy Southwest flight into LR to drive home
It has not been to the dyno but, based on my butt dyno, it is as strong if not stronger than my black car at 17 psi - 318/322 respectively. The sport turbo is matched well to the 2.5L IMHO.
Rebuild also included new cup car pp with 930 disc, needle bearings, TO bearing and pilot bearing.
BTW, car is in Northern MS, just 15 miles south of Memphis and it comes to Heber Springs AR as well. Easy Southwest flight into LR to drive home
It has not been to the dyno but, based on my butt dyno, it is as strong if not stronger than my black car at 17 psi - 318/322 respectively. The sport turbo is matched well to the 2.5L IMHO.
Rebuild also included new cup car pp with 930 disc, needle bearings, TO bearing and pilot bearing.
Last edited by Ski; 06-25-2008 at 10:19 AM.
#22
IB,
Hopefully, you were not referencing me in your initial post, because there was no feedback from you after I sent you some facts on the car. Furthermore, with respect to any problems on my car I prefer to be open and honest and allow the buyer to make the decision based on facts, after all I have to live with myself. I used my car for weekends mainly, so I install the A/C delete kit, the water leak as I mentioned related to some damage around the water jacket becaue the bolt broke when removing the head, that issue has been resolved, then with respect to the A/F, I said you should take the car to the dyno because the A/F ratio needed to be properly set as I had just added the mafterburner. This is honest and specific information that cannot be attained by looking at the car, but that's just me.
biggles
Hopefully, you were not referencing me in your initial post, because there was no feedback from you after I sent you some facts on the car. Furthermore, with respect to any problems on my car I prefer to be open and honest and allow the buyer to make the decision based on facts, after all I have to live with myself. I used my car for weekends mainly, so I install the A/C delete kit, the water leak as I mentioned related to some damage around the water jacket becaue the bolt broke when removing the head, that issue has been resolved, then with respect to the A/F, I said you should take the car to the dyno because the A/F ratio needed to be properly set as I had just added the mafterburner. This is honest and specific information that cannot be attained by looking at the car, but that's just me.
biggles
#23
the 944
the car that bret was refering to is mine, it is for sale . i was going to but a new set of shoes on, w/ an alignment, before it was officially placed on the market. if anyone is interested i can give the details about the car.
#25
This seems to be a common idea for people wanting to buy 951s.
They want a perfect car, just as it rolled off the showroom floor 20 years ago, zero miles, mega horsepower, not modified, etc. Oh. And they have $2000 to spend.
Maybe the best solution for these people is to go to the local porsche dealer, find themsleves a nice Cayman S or Carerra and negotiate a purchase price of around $10K. Then they get what they want.
Lets face it. The 951s are porsches which means limited parts supply (i.e. high prices and not many choices compared to mustang or honda). The are old enough that most have been driven and cars wear in 20 years. Most of the 951s are owned by enthusiasts now that are willing to work on their cars.
When I bought my 951 (over 10 years ago), there was a much better selection of low mileage cars. But then again a 951S then in nice condition was running about $17-20K. But they could e found with 25k-20k miles.
-Dana
They want a perfect car, just as it rolled off the showroom floor 20 years ago, zero miles, mega horsepower, not modified, etc. Oh. And they have $2000 to spend.
Maybe the best solution for these people is to go to the local porsche dealer, find themsleves a nice Cayman S or Carerra and negotiate a purchase price of around $10K. Then they get what they want.
Lets face it. The 951s are porsches which means limited parts supply (i.e. high prices and not many choices compared to mustang or honda). The are old enough that most have been driven and cars wear in 20 years. Most of the 951s are owned by enthusiasts now that are willing to work on their cars.
When I bought my 951 (over 10 years ago), there was a much better selection of low mileage cars. But then again a 951S then in nice condition was running about $17-20K. But they could e found with 25k-20k miles.
-Dana
#27
I did say "probably" not "absolutely." OK there is one or two very nice examples out there in the $20K 951 market, but generally people spending half that will be dealing with some problems and should not expect perfection.
I still think that most sellers that would claim a 20 year old turbo sportscar has no problems are *probably* full of it, so when you make the trip to see that car, expect there to be a few undisclosed problems and you'll be less likely to be disappointed.
Happiness is all about managing expectations.
-Joel.
I still think that most sellers that would claim a 20 year old turbo sportscar has no problems are *probably* full of it, so when you make the trip to see that car, expect there to be a few undisclosed problems and you'll be less likely to be disappointed.
Happiness is all about managing expectations.
-Joel.
I have to disagree. I've never sold a car that didn't have everything working and proper docs. The last 951 that I sold did fetch 20K, and it was worth every cent. The new owner drove the car for eight years with just a new clutch and proper maintenance. This was a modified 330hp car that was not driven lightly. He recently installed a 3.0 motor. Some of us just can't keep good enough alone.
These car can eat up much money if you let things go for very long. Getting a great car with records is worth a premium. You will spend whatever you save and much more trying to compromise on a so-so car. There aren't many good examples of these cars left and even fewer great ones.
These car can eat up much money if you let things go for very long. Getting a great car with records is worth a premium. You will spend whatever you save and much more trying to compromise on a so-so car. There aren't many good examples of these cars left and even fewer great ones.
#30
As has been stated w/ a 20+ y/o car there are so many potential things to go wrong. Personally if you can do the work yourself or know someone who can then I would say buy a decent shape car in the color and options you want for 5-7k, plan to refresh engine and driveline, and any other wearable item, then upgrade the car to your prefernce on a timetable that is good for you. I have been slowly upgrading mine for about 2 yrs now. Along the way you will learn more about the car and the vast amount of upradesand good deals will come up. For example on my car, I got a good deal on Fiske wheels w/ painted centers that match my paint and I picked up a set of sport seats off ebay the other nite( sorry whom I bidded againt), 10 speaker door panels, ect...
That being said, the car SKI has is slick. I would be all over that car if I did not have mine, due to the fact that is the color I like and it is painted, which is one of the last things I have to do.
Steve
That being said, the car SKI has is slick. I would be all over that car if I did not have mine, due to the fact that is the color I like and it is painted, which is one of the last things I have to do.
Steve