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How many use 10W-30 synthetic?

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Old 06-23-2008 | 10:56 PM
  #16  
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cyclehum -

direct advice to you friend - 30w is too thin. The reality is the valvetrain design in these cars requires/prefers heavier weight oil.

40 weight you could get away with if it must see 0 degree weather, but definitely a multiweight 50 for summer.

A cheap price camshaft/lifters set for these engines is $1K + (no lie)
A thin oil (anything 30w) will beat the **** out of cam/lifters in no time. If you decide to give it a try - change it to 30 and listen closely while running. Then change to a 50 and listen again...... your ears will tell you all you need to know.

Enjoy the car!
Old 06-23-2008 | 11:24 PM
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For those concerned about the ZDDP issue, a number of folks make a highly concentrated ZDDP additive. LR sells one, STP makes one as well as a few others. Like I said, it's VERY concentrated. For the STP, 1 bottle handles 4-5 quarts of oil.
I still use AGIP 4T, but if you want to use a less expensive oil, such as Valvoline or Castrol, etc. just pick up a bottle of ZDDP additive. Make sure it's not some bull**** generic "oil treatment".

I run 10W60.
Old 06-23-2008 | 11:29 PM
  #18  
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[QUOTE=David Floyd;5539793]
Originally Posted by KuHL 951
10W- I use Valvoline Racing VR-1 20W-50 now as it has plenty of ZDDP content /QUOTE]

Not any more, read in the link above.
Not according to the most current sheet and meets the minimun ZDDP requirements of every article I have read.

David, show me where VR-1 has dropped the ZDDP content in the current blend and I will agree with you. The present .11% to .15% Zinc-Phosphorous is plenty without damaging a cat converter and still supplying the shear values for flat tappet motors. This is exactly why I still use it rather than M1 or most oils.

http://www.valvoline.com/products/VR...otor%20Oil.pdf
Old 06-23-2008 | 11:54 PM
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[QUOTE=KuHL 951;5539920]
Originally Posted by David Floyd

Not according to the most current sheet and meets the minimun ZDDP requirements of every article I have read.

David, show me where VR-1 has dropped the ZDDP content in the current blend and I will agree with you. The present .11% to .15% Zinc-Phosphorous is plenty without damaging a cat converter and still supplying the shear values for flat tappet motors. This is exactly why I still use it rather than M1 or most oils.

http://www.valvoline.com/products/VR...otor%20Oil.pdf
Just let me say I use VR-1 also, but reading this has me thinking.

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I found Valvoline 20W50 VR1 Racing oil on the shelf the other day. Here's what their website has to say about it.

VR1 Racing Motor Oil's exclusive chemistry is designed to reduce friction and enhance power. It is among the most popular engine lubricants in all types of racing including CART, stock car and drag racing. It is recommended for engines burning gasoline and full or partial alcohol fuels in track and street service.

* High performance and protection for today's engines that run at high RPM
* New ashless anti-wear additives combined with ZDDP provide ultimate wear protection
* Enhanced anti-foam system helps protect the engine even during extreme stress
* Enhanced additives protect against high-temperature deposits for a cleaner engine
* Friction modifiers help improve horsepower output
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"* New ashless anti-wear additives combined with ZDDP provide ultimate wear protection"

That screams boron based anti-wear additive with lowered ZDDP levels IMHO. I guess it's VR1 not-street-legal from now on :-) Granted, the non-street legal has about half the detergency, so you can't go very long without an oil change, say no more than 3000 mi with it!

I'll add to the list oils we've run and are happy with, wear-wise:

Mobil 1 MX4T 10w40
Royal Purple Max Cycle 20w50
Amsoil m/c Harley V-twin 20w50

I'm sure there are others that aren't coming to mind right this minute. I use the Brad Penn and Swepco products very happily, and I have a few customers running the Brad Penn in their race cars with excellent visuals upon tear down (356 & 914).

I'll also add the caveat that I don't recommend running Castrol GTX for more than 3,000 mi either. In our field testing, it broke down rather quickly (consumption of detergents, Zn, and P) compared to other oils.

Oh, and I will go as far as to say that if an oil has SM or CJ-4 on it, I wouldn't use it unless you have definative proof that the formulation hasn't changed or has good levels of Zn and P before using it.

For those with water cooled engines, there are plenty of SL or earlier API spec oils on the approved list. I run a Motul factory-approved oil in my VWs- W8 passat and V10 tdi T-reg, since I plan on keeping both past the warranty period like with our Porsches!
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Old 06-24-2008 | 12:15 AM
  #20  
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amsoil 20/50 race, incredible blend of oil and i abused the ^%$* out of it
Old 06-24-2008 | 12:22 AM
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[QUOTE=David Floyd;5539987]
Originally Posted by KuHL 951

Just let me say I use VR-1 also, but reading this has me thinking.

I'm not bagging on you David. All I can go by is the zinc-phosphorous content on the product data sheet I linked above and it's within minimum recommended percentages from all the research I have done. The 'street legal' aspect is ridiculous, the diesel blends haven't dropped ZDDP at all and they are street legal. Ashless oil is nothing more than using older formulas geared for aircraft where it is a requirement. Many of them are flat-tappet design also. Personally I wouldn't worry about it until Valvoline drops ZDDP completely in VR-1 altogether. They never changed the ZDDP content and couldn't care less if Porsche ever approves them for 'all' their motors no matter what year or model. That older info alone is the most asinine oil thread I've ever read here that only certain Porsche approved oils are worthy. Ask Porsche why they didn't test Amsoil, Royal Purple, Valvoline, or many American made oils. Pure snobbery and deception at it's best IMO. I have read oil threads until I am blue in the face and will stick by the VR-1 as I have for the last 3 years. There I feel better now.
Old 06-24-2008 | 12:28 AM
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[QUOTE=KuHL 951;5540059]
Originally Posted by David Floyd

. I have read oil threads until I am blue in the face and will stick by the VR-1 as I have for the last 3 years. There I feel better now.
Old 06-24-2008 | 12:30 AM
  #23  
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Thanks for the info- I was reading the Valvoline and Mobil specs as I saw these links added to the thread. I've read and read and read about oil. Everytime I'm "finished"- they CHANGE it! Looks like Mobil has increased the phosporus (they claim this is the metal to metal protection in the ZDDP) in some of their oil also. Looks like 10/50 or 15/50 synthetic might be the best choice for my climate. I'll keep the 30out of the 944! I've got Mobil 0-40 in the 996 and am pleased so far. I'll send in a sample for analysis when it's time to change it. I'm guessing a year drain interval on the 996, might end up with 5-7K miles in a year, and almost always gets a long drive, well up to temperature. I'm shooting for 2 oil changes per year (unless I track it) with the 944, it will be a daily driver. Looking forward to getting it and enjoying it daily- I'll post some pics of it. Not to mention the excellent mileage I'm expecting! My XJR was getting 11mpg premium....... Not sure what type oil was used previously, so if synthetic leaks or is consumed too heavy, I'll just use dino.



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