Need advice on clutch problem
#31
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Exactly the same symptoms that happened to me. Which is why I asked the questions.
There are small springs in the clutch assembly which two of mine were destroyed after a DE event. Even if you pull out the slave and there are no pieces of metal in the housing, I bet they are stuck in the bell housing somewhere.
There are small springs in the clutch assembly which two of mine were destroyed after a DE event. Even if you pull out the slave and there are no pieces of metal in the housing, I bet they are stuck in the bell housing somewhere.
I guess I'm confused how a loose spring jammed in there would cause this sort of gradual failure, but then I don't completely understand what is going on inside the bell housing anyway.
#32
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I noticed a slight vibration before the DE event but never payed any attention to it. It was somewhat more noticable, but not much before it went completely. It may have also been disguised by one of my motor mounts being collapsed.
#33
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Well, I removed the starter and slave cylinder last night and didn't find anything out of the ordinary. The slave is not leaking (at least not past the rubber boot), and I didn't find any debris (springs or otherwise) sitting in there. I tried to stick a magnetic wand thing in there to see if I could catch anything, to no avail.
I also looked at the clutch fork movement again, and I would estimate it's moving about 3/4" when the clutch is pressed all the way in. I believe the spec is 15 to 18 mm, so it's definitely moving enough. I'll need to talk to Dan again, because I think the hydraulics are fine.
I think I'm going to try to get a bore scope so I can see inside the bell housing before ripping it all apart. Anyone know of a good (cheap) source? Maybe autozone loans them out?
I also looked at the clutch fork movement again, and I would estimate it's moving about 3/4" when the clutch is pressed all the way in. I believe the spec is 15 to 18 mm, so it's definitely moving enough. I'll need to talk to Dan again, because I think the hydraulics are fine.
I think I'm going to try to get a bore scope so I can see inside the bell housing before ripping it all apart. Anyone know of a good (cheap) source? Maybe autozone loans them out?
#34
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Well, I removed the starter and slave cylinder last night and didn't find anything out of the ordinary. The slave is not leaking (at least not past the rubber boot), and I didn't find any debris (springs or otherwise) sitting in there. I tried to stick a magnetic wand thing in there to see if I could catch anything, to no avail.
I also looked at the clutch fork movement again, and I would estimate it's moving about 3/4" when the clutch is pressed all the way in. I believe the spec is 15 to 18 mm, so it's definitely moving enough. I'll need to talk to Dan again, because I think the hydraulics are fine.
I think I'm going to try to get a bore scope so I can see inside the bell housing before ripping it all apart. Anyone know of a good (cheap) source? Maybe autozone loans them out?
I also looked at the clutch fork movement again, and I would estimate it's moving about 3/4" when the clutch is pressed all the way in. I believe the spec is 15 to 18 mm, so it's definitely moving enough. I'll need to talk to Dan again, because I think the hydraulics are fine.
I think I'm going to try to get a bore scope so I can see inside the bell housing before ripping it all apart. Anyone know of a good (cheap) source? Maybe autozone loans them out?
#35
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Wow, Alex, hate to hijack the thread, but you're lucky to be alive after crawling under the car with that mickey mouse setup.
Spend a few bucks and get some real (not cheap) jackstands. Either that, or buy some term life insurance and list me as sole benificiary.
Spend a few bucks and get some real (not cheap) jackstands. Either that, or buy some term life insurance and list me as sole benificiary.
#36
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Yup, they're still out. I can check that tonight. Thanks for all the help, Kuhl.
#37
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Exactly the same symptoms that happened to me. Which is why I asked the questions.
There are small springs in the clutch assembly which two of mine were destroyed (as in picture) after a DE event. Even if you pull out the slave and there are no pieces of metal in the housing, I bet they are stuck in the bell housing somewhere.
Lift her up and get to work. I used clark-garage, rennlist and a great article in Excellence for preperation.
There are small springs in the clutch assembly which two of mine were destroyed (as in picture) after a DE event. Even if you pull out the slave and there are no pieces of metal in the housing, I bet they are stuck in the bell housing somewhere.
Lift her up and get to work. I used clark-garage, rennlist and a great article in Excellence for preperation.
#38
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I appreciate your concerns but after some thorough research and testing, confirmed that the setup would hold. This was the initial setup I used but added reinforcement to the frame just to be safe. It was really tested when the transmission was removed as I had to pratically yank it off the housing.
#39
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I just tried to move the clutch fork by hand and it won't budge. Should I be able to move it, or does that mean something is stuck in there?
Last edited by vt951; 06-26-2008 at 09:29 PM.
#40
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It depends on if it doesn't move at all or there's some fore/aft play. You can't operate the clutch by hand but there has to be some slack (<1/8" I would estimate) or the TOB would wear on the clutch fork all the time. Yours doesn't move at all it sounds like. If your TOB threw a circlip the fork would move all over the place. The broken spring is sounding more likely and is probably wedged between your disc or PP preventing the clutch disc from moving far enough to disengage. I've never had a spring get loose so I can't really comment on that with any experience. It does sound internal though since you have 3/4" of travel at the slave rod.
Last edited by KuHL 951; 06-27-2008 at 12:27 AM.
#41
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well i was hoping it was something in the master/slave system but if you have no leaks and it has that much travel it must be something else. I would throw it up on stands and start pulling stuff before you order anything since you never know what you may end up needing. Just be sure you can get it done before the FEST!
#42
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well i was hoping it was something in the master/slave system but if you have no leaks and it has that much travel it must be something else. I would throw it up on stands and start pulling stuff before you order anything since you never know what you may end up needing. Just be sure you can get it done before the FEST!
Yeah, I hope I can get it done before the fest. Thanks for all your help, Dan. I'm sure I will be calling you again once I'm in there looking at the carnage. You don't have a scope, do you?
#43
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Well, the clutch is fixed now. It turned out to be a broken fork. I'll try to get a hold of some pics to post of it, but it looked like one of the fingers was worn down, and then was bent back to the point of breaking almost completely off.
The engine was removed in the process of fixing the clutch, in order to re-seal and repair some engine related items more easily, including balance shaft seals, power steering pump, and turbo oil seals. The turbo turned out to be pretty mangled, so we replaced it with another stock 26-6 (thanks, Kuhl!).
I do have a new problem to ask about now, though. There is a noise and vibration that it makes now that it didn't make before. The noise is most noticeable at idle. It comes and goes every fews seconds, like a resonance or something. It doesn't matter if the clutch pedal is pushed in or not. The vibration is most noticeable when revving the engine at a stand still (probably because once it's rolling, there are lots of other road induced vibrations). When I rev the engine, it feels and sounds "buzzy", whereas it used to feel very smooth.
One thought I had are balance shafts (since they were re-sealed). I'm not sure whether re-sealing could have any effect on the position of the balance shafts, though. If not, then that's probably not it.
My other (dreadful) thought is the pilot bearing. I was there helping during the engine installation, and we had a pretty bad struggle getting the engine back onto the drive shaft. Hopefully, somebody will tell me that if the pilot bearing were making noise, it would go away when I push in the clutch (so I can get some sleep tonight!). I read another thread about clutch vibration and this post got me worried:
The engine was removed in the process of fixing the clutch, in order to re-seal and repair some engine related items more easily, including balance shaft seals, power steering pump, and turbo oil seals. The turbo turned out to be pretty mangled, so we replaced it with another stock 26-6 (thanks, Kuhl!).
I do have a new problem to ask about now, though. There is a noise and vibration that it makes now that it didn't make before. The noise is most noticeable at idle. It comes and goes every fews seconds, like a resonance or something. It doesn't matter if the clutch pedal is pushed in or not. The vibration is most noticeable when revving the engine at a stand still (probably because once it's rolling, there are lots of other road induced vibrations). When I rev the engine, it feels and sounds "buzzy", whereas it used to feel very smooth.
One thought I had are balance shafts (since they were re-sealed). I'm not sure whether re-sealing could have any effect on the position of the balance shafts, though. If not, then that's probably not it.
My other (dreadful) thought is the pilot bearing. I was there helping during the engine installation, and we had a pretty bad struggle getting the engine back onto the drive shaft. Hopefully, somebody will tell me that if the pilot bearing were making noise, it would go away when I push in the clutch (so I can get some sleep tonight!). I read another thread about clutch vibration and this post got me worried:
#45
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Every time I hear the word 'buzzy' I suspect a heat shield on the exhaust. It's easy to get one of them loose, and there are many, or out of position when reinstalling the engine. Was the pilot bearing replaced with the new clutch? Usually a bad pilot bearing will squeal pretty loud and change when the clutch is engaged.