shiners780

So it can be done! I am just afraid that I will break it...resulting in two missed track days Wed. and Thurs.

Gah! I hate working with deadlines.

David Floyd

The installed pic shows the first adapters I used ( for reference ) what I use now are the adapters in the uninstalled pic.

Good eye, honestly been so long, I can't say for sure how many turns, but it does not crank down flush to the end, just get her good and tight, your just looking for a water tight seal there.

Bri Bro

What I found when I went through this is that there are tappered fitting and regular threaded fittings in brass adapters. The regular thread will only go in a couple of turns, I couldn't find tapered fittings so I went with the parts I posted. I know, time isn't on your side. Another way to do it is to use rubber hose like in the picture lart posted.

Tom M'Guinn

I snapped one at first trying to bend with heat. So I'd vote for the fittings. But, if the fittings don't work out...

If you look at Lart's picture, I think he is trying to show another way -- i.e., cutting the lower pipe and extending it longer with a hose and a couple clamps. Alex R came up with a slick all-metal version of that in the picture below, which is now working well on my car.

You could also probably cut the smaller/upper pipe before the Y and use hoses and a T fitting to complete the plumbing.

xsboost90

i bent mine just alittle, then flattened out a very small spot to let the unit lean forward just alittle, then used one or two extra crush washers on the banjo- works fine and hasnt leaked yet.

Bri Bro

From a old post:


Here's what I ended up doing for mine.

When I updated the power steering lines so that the top hose has the direct connection instead of the banjo bolt, I ended up with the spare banjo bolt fitting that was the exact size of the one on the end of the turbo hard pipe. I ended up hacking the banjo bulb off the end of the hardpipe and then connected the two pieces with a section of rubber hose. I have no idea how long it will last, but it isn't leaking yet. The rubber hose makes the pipe flexible though, which makes adjusting its position to fit with the intake and turbo piping extremely easy.

I also got the smaller temp switch from napa which helped a lot with clearance.
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Bill Andrew

2bridges

You bet. I DID NOT use heat.
As thin as it and as far as it needs to bend i prefer to work small areas equally instead of heating one spot and trying to get the entire bend out of one area. I suspect that is why so many folks crack them.

KuHL 951

Pauertuning was making these for his Garrett DBB turbochargers. I sent him mine and it turned out pretty nice. You might check and see if he is doing them without the turbo purchase. The Aeroquip fitting route is also pretty fool proof but I wanted to retain my OE temp sensor.

http://pauertuning.com/

lart951

That's correct, you cut the pipe and use a small connector hose and it works fine, that pipe came off RKD's car, I prefer dry turbos, less leaks to worry about.

KuHL 951

Out of curiosity how many wet turbos have you seen leak? Blowing oil yes, but I haven't seen a coolant leak yet other than an external hose or fitting, never into the oiled side, turbine, or compressor side. Is this common enough to negate the shut-down cooling benefits of a wet turbo? I could see a dry turbo on a track car where a cool down lap can be done, but for street use what's the consensus on water cooling?

lart951

Never seen a turbo leak, but the pipe the we are talking about yes, it does leak, with time it get's corroded at the tip and needs replacement. I usually sell that pipe separate from the turbo as I have seen the demand for it.

If you can't remenber to cool your dry turbo by running a extra minute, just buy a turbo timer.

KuHL 951

Well you would know about 951 parts for sure. I guess I've been lucky so far keeping my coolant/water ratios fresh with no corrosion or leaks in 5 years. I can see how a car sitting for years or with bad maintenance could corrode though. I've just always been partial to the concept of a wet turbo but with synthetic oils it's probably not the issue it used to be with coking on the bearings. Getting rid of additional water plumbing is definitely a plus.

Thom

Depending on the size of the compressor it is possible only to reindex the pipe without having to bend it ; the thermoswitch can be modified (shortened) so it doesn't hit the intake pipe.

shiners780

All great info guys, thank you. I will wait until (if) the turbo shows up tomorrow to see how much extra clearance is needed before doing anything.

I have the low profile temp sensor so that isn't an issue. I like the idea of using a short length of rubber hose to extend the hard pipe over the compressor housing, and to provide flexibility for intake and hardpipe clearance as well.

Good ideas...thanks!

lart951

I have seen excessive corrosion in car that sitted for at least a year and even worst whn they didn't have enough coolant, the corrosion damaged the head and water filled the the combustion chambers seizing the pistons.