Ideas on clamping boost pressure. By George I got it done
#46
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What, you want me to drive the car, keep it straight, balance the Link tuner somewhere, look at that, not hit anything, watch the revs, watch the boost guage, watch the AFR and boot it through 3rd at full bore to the redline? With the boost turned up?? Are you insane??? ![hiha](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/roflmao.gif)
![hiha](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/roflmao.gif)
![hiha](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/roflmao.gif)
No, on a full throttle run I'm just looking forward through the windscreen (windshield to you over there) or maybe out of the side window if it's a bit damp....
Ha Ha, I'll try that next time I take the car out - have to find the programmer first though.
Regards
Graham
![hiha](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/roflmao.gif)
![hiha](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/roflmao.gif)
![hiha](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/roflmao.gif)
No, on a full throttle run I'm just looking forward through the windscreen (windshield to you over there) or maybe out of the side window if it's a bit damp....
Ha Ha, I'll try that next time I take the car out - have to find the programmer first though.
Regards
Graham
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Dana
#47
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Do you know what exactly is happening to your Link when you exceed 240? I take it that it doesn't simply stay in the last cell like mine does? Have you watched it to see what cell it goes to or what it does after 240?
I wonder if there are various Link versions that act slightly different when exceed the sensor.
I wonder if there are various Link versions that act slightly different when exceed the sensor.
I connected a pump to it and watched what happened on the programmer as I upped the pressure. It reads up to 255kpa, then goes to zero and climbs from there. Letting the pressure bleed away slowly it read 6,5,4,3,2,1,0,255,254 etc.
Doing the same and watching the cells it climbed up to cell 900 then went to cell 000 for an instant and then to cell 100 - and I know it was actually 100 (rather than 1100 but without displaying the leading "1") because it had the correct %age adjustment value for cell 100.
I then did the same and looked at the voltage out and it did the same - climbed to a max and then flipped to 0.39v (the min clamp), and then back to the max as the pressure bled away and continued to fall back.
I then repeated with a second unit and got the same results.
Unfortunately, as it did go to 255kpa and stay in cell 900 up to 21-22psi it looks like my problem at 18-19psi is probably not caused by the Map sensor maxing out early.
![Frown](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
Back to square one then....
Regards
Graham
#48
Race Car
Thread Starter
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That is a very good way to test it out. I wish I had thought of that It would have saved some fuel ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Graham, Don't give on the idea just yet. Using a pump vs manifold pressure may result in .... something you are not seeing in the testing. You may have an inaccurate boost gauge or a quick spike in boost that would cause a quick halt to fuel and then try to re escalate just like your test is showing. I think it may be worth persuing the bleed method if nothing else to eliminate that as a cause and if you do get it sorted you will need it anyway for higher than 22 psi.
You may also be maxxing out the injector. You can't use my setup for comparison there b/c I am actually injecting fuel through a supplemental nozzle so I have control above and beyond the max injector output. I am actually still using injectors that flow less than the stockers. I change my high boost fueling by changing a jet in a nozzle.
Keep at it I'm sure it can get sorted out. Maybe list ALL of the mods including chipset that you tried to do to get it fixed. I am sure together this community can get you running the type of boost your mod list shows your car to be capable of. I know full well how disappointing it feels when you can't run it where it feels good. I have been driving around at about 21-23 psi b/c of my clutch but i had to turn it up yesterday and just granny shift it as there is a real difference at 25 psi.
Of course this is me here. I have been known to change a piston or two at the track (dragstrip) if I got out of hand
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Graham, Don't give on the idea just yet. Using a pump vs manifold pressure may result in .... something you are not seeing in the testing. You may have an inaccurate boost gauge or a quick spike in boost that would cause a quick halt to fuel and then try to re escalate just like your test is showing. I think it may be worth persuing the bleed method if nothing else to eliminate that as a cause and if you do get it sorted you will need it anyway for higher than 22 psi.
You may also be maxxing out the injector. You can't use my setup for comparison there b/c I am actually injecting fuel through a supplemental nozzle so I have control above and beyond the max injector output. I am actually still using injectors that flow less than the stockers. I change my high boost fueling by changing a jet in a nozzle.
Keep at it I'm sure it can get sorted out. Maybe list ALL of the mods including chipset that you tried to do to get it fixed. I am sure together this community can get you running the type of boost your mod list shows your car to be capable of. I know full well how disappointing it feels when you can't run it where it feels good. I have been driving around at about 21-23 psi b/c of my clutch but i had to turn it up yesterday and just granny shift it as there is a real difference at 25 psi.
Of course this is me here. I have been known to change a piston or two at the track (dragstrip) if I got out of hand
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#49
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Umm this is a bit late but may help anyone who searches this thread later. I haven't played with the calibration on my Link in a long time but when changing some things over for E85 I remembered something I had completely forgot about.
There is no reason to mess with adding a voltage clamping device, which doesn't work anyway. The AFMLink has a min and max clamp voltage setting built into it. I'm sure this would have saved you some headache had I remember this earlier.
There is no reason to mess with adding a voltage clamping device, which doesn't work anyway. The AFMLink has a min and max clamp voltage setting built into it. I'm sure this would have saved you some headache had I remember this earlier.
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#50
Race Car
Thread Starter
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Yes, but if you look upthread it was mentioned that it supposedly doesn't work hence adding the external clamp .
However, it does work and it was definately the MAP sensor being out of its range. Been tested to the end.
However, it does work and it was definately the MAP sensor being out of its range. Been tested to the end.