Can somone explain camber plates to me?
#16
So is it possible to just have an alignment done where they set the camber to say -2 degrees, and have no toe on the car, as to preserve tire life? Or are the two in proportion to each other?
#17
The point of my last post is to note that if you ADJUST one, then the other changes AND the amount of that change depends on yet a third variable, the amount of Caster you have.
From a practical standpoint, what one would probably like to be able to do with a street driven car is to easily change from track to street setup, adjusting only the camber via a readily accessible "tool" (the camber plate). Unfortunately, since adjusting Camber affects Toe, Toe also needs to be re-set to the desired angle, especially since it's excessive Toe (in or out) that has the greatest impact on tire wear.
Setting/Re-setting toe isn't really that big a deal (toe-plates are probably the least expensive alignment tool) but it is an "extra" step... that can lead down that steep slope towards a dedicated track car, trailer, tow vehicle...
#18
#19
what you need regardless of plates or not is a "good" alignment. most shops just set your car in "spec" which is a range. you want your car set to specific adj. not the allowable range, a good shop will do this they will also charge for it, it's time consuming-no 89.99 alignments.
#21
One more item.. On a stock TS suspension, you can only get about -2.5 camber. My track Hoosiers were wearing the outsides off, as the manufacturer recommends -3. I bought the camber plates, dialed to -3, problem solved. BUT..I also added those Mo30 968 Sways. All of a sudden I was wearing the INSIDES! Back to -2.5, all fixed. My lesson-stopping body roll will reduce your need for negative camber, and maybe even save you $400!!