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Hmm...spark plug question plus picture

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Old 04-29-2008, 01:30 PM
  #16  
A.Wayne
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That cylinder is burning oil , adding oil to the mix will cause the cylinder to detonate , the plug shows detonation , rich on the top leaner on the bottom and mid. Stick a new plug in their use a no 6 not 7 and run it again pull the plug and look , there is too much mileage on that plug. to use as a good reading tool , a newer plug will give a better idea as to the condition of the cylinder ....
Old 04-29-2008, 01:37 PM
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blown 944
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Actually it would be better to swap to #3 as it is on the other injector driver circuit.

However my opinion is that it is probably due to your extended time away and possible a small leak in that valve guide.

I would just change the plugs and pull them after some hard runs and then post up what they look like both a good plug and the bad (if it continues to be bad, I doubt it)

Also the AF gauge will not be able to tell you anything about one cylinder, but it is very valuable for making sure you are at a safe ratio. So yes you NEED one especially if you plan on runnign at these pressures regularly.
Old 04-29-2008, 03:33 PM
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Darwantae951

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Old 04-29-2008, 03:35 PM
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Darwantae951

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Originally Posted by Jeremy Himsel
Also since you're upgrading I'd dump the Bosch WR7DC plugs and go a range colder with a NGK BPR7ES.
Someone care to explain spark plug temperature ranges?
Old 04-29-2008, 03:56 PM
  #20  
Keithr726
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HAHA ^ #18
Old 04-29-2008, 04:27 PM
  #21  
blown 944
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Originally Posted by ModdedEverything951S
Someone care to explain spark plug temperature ranges?
The hotter the spark plug the further the electrode sticks into the combustion chamber. example: 5 = hot ....... 9 = cold. colder plugs have the electrode barely protruding out of the threaded area to dissapate the heat quickly

the hotter plugs will burn off any carbon easier for regular street driven type cars

However, if you run too hot a plug in a boosted or High HP engine the electrode will stay hot and may detonate (pre ignite) this is very bad. Hence the reason why when running a highly modded car you need to use colder and change plugs more often.

the "R" is for resistor for interferance
Old 04-29-2008, 04:37 PM
  #22  
Darwantae951

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Originally Posted by blown 944
The hotter the spark plug the further the electrode sticks into the combustion chamber. example: 5 = hot ....... 9 = cold. colder plugs have the electrode barely protruding out of the threaded area to dissapate the heat quickly

the hotter plugs will burn off any carbon easier for regular street driven type cars

However, if you run too hot a plug in a boosted or High HP engine the electrode will stay hot and may detonate (pre ignite) this is very bad. Hence the reason why when running a highly modded car you need to use colder and change plugs more often.

the "R" is for resistor for interferance

Thanks for explaining that!
Old 04-29-2008, 04:38 PM
  #23  
Darwantae951

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Originally Posted by Jeremy Himsel
Also since you're upgrading I'd dump the Bosch WR7DC plugs and go a range colder with a NGK BPR7ES.
If what I just learned is right, wouldn't these two plugs be in the same temp range?
Old 04-29-2008, 04:44 PM
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blown 944
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Yes they are the same heat range just different companies
Old 04-29-2008, 04:46 PM
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Jeremy Himsel
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No the NGK's numbers work differently the bosch or champion. The colder Bosch would be a WR6DC and the stock NGK 951 plug is a BPR6ES with the 7ES being one rangecolder. Japanese?
Old 04-29-2008, 04:48 PM
  #26  
Darwantae951

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Originally Posted by Jeremy Himsel
No the NGK's numbers work differently the bosch or champion. The colder Bosch would be a WR6DC and the stock NGK 951 plug is a BPR6ES with the 7ES being one rangecolder. Japanese?
I'll try them out after I used this set of Bosch plugs.
Old 04-29-2008, 04:50 PM
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blown 944
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Is that true?? I have only used NGK in racing apps and never paid attention to the stock plugs In any car. But that would be completely backwards

If I am incorrect I apologize.

I must research this ............
Old 04-29-2008, 04:55 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Jeremy Himsel
Also since you're upgrading I'd dump the Bosch WR7DC plugs and go a range colder with a NGK BPR7ES.
I agree, the NGKS made the car smoother and always came out in a tan colour.

Change that plug, after 100 miles or so, check it (as mentioned earlier).
Old 04-29-2008, 04:56 PM
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blown 944
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edit...I am incorrect on the heat range between bosch and champion compared to NGK. They are indeed bassakwards.

Boy...... it's a damn good thing I have never strayed from NGK all these years.
Old 04-29-2008, 04:57 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by blown 944
Is that true?? I have only used NGK in racing apps and never paid attention to the stock plugs In any car. But that would be completely backwards

If I am incorrect I apologize.

I must research this ............

With american plug makers Autolite, Champion (Bosch included), if it's a higher number it's a hotter plug. Japanese manufacturers like Denso and NGK if it's a higher number it's a colder plug. If you're turning up boost pressure from stock it's a good idea to go one range colder within a + 100HP window.

The 6Es is the stock plug in the NGK, the 7Dc is the stock Bosch.


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