88BlueTSiQuest

I have a set of the Max 'Maf' chips and the LR MAF, they don't work together. I actually ended up with 2 separate chips from Lindsey. The first chips were supposed to be 'MAF', but the only thing they actually did was account for more flow due to the lack of AFM restriction.

The 2nd set of chips I got were the ACTUAL MAF chips. It seems that the thread on MaxHP forums was from a year ago, and Russell actually never finished producing the MAF chips for Lindsey. So, after emails back and forth with Dave, and Dave calling Russell, Russell finished the chip and sent Lindsey the code, where Lindsey burned it and sent it to me.

This chip was lean, and didn't work for me, not even with the FQS set to 6% more fuel(Yes, the FQS adjustment was 're-instated' on my MAF chip). So, I'm back to the original 'MAF' chip running the AFM.

I hope this helps some, as there was no actual 'true' MaxHP 'LR MAF' chip, until about 2.5 weeks ago, and that chip still doesn't work right.

porschefig

Interesting.... How should I proceed from here

With the original 'MAF' chip and the AFM you're just a little rich???

What were the symptoms of the 'MAF' chip and the LR MAF not working together??? Something similar to my symptoms? Hardly idles but it "can" be revved if you sort of "blip" the throttle further and further down. I don't remember what the AFR read with the engine revved and now I'm about 200 miles from the car (never went past ~2500 rpm anyways)..

porschefig

Shameless bump!

porschefig

Now I've got the Serial 9-pin -> USB adapter.

So far I only know of one car that ran this set up: LR MAF, MAFterburner, 951MAX chips, and Zietronix WBO2. That car isn't currently running.... not so confidence inspiring.

I'll be back to the car in a week or two (it's 200 miles away); but for now any comments on these two points would be appreciated:

"MAF harness is right according to the wire colors on the Lindsey instructions BUT the wires aren't in the same positions on the factory AFM plug as they are drawn on the Lindsey instructions."

and

"Is anyone using a LR MAF / MAFterburner and the Zietronix WBO2?
Do you remember where you tapped into the Zeitronix for WBO2 signal for the MAFterburner?
We used a multimeter and found which pin had between 1-4 Volts signal and which was ground..."

88BlueTSiQuest

The original MAF chip symptoms were: Rough idle, and the car would nearly die if you gave it any gas. Keep on the accelerator pedal, and it would eventually rev up. It would also backfire if you attempt to bump the accelerator a couple of times. Sounds like your issues. The MAF just wasn't sending a signal that the DME could use.

With the newest chip that was actually designed to make the MAF work with no piggy back, the car would run and was drivable, but it was so lean it was scary. I guess I should of tried putting a softball in the intake pipe, that would of gotten rid of the lean condition

porschefig

That's exactly my symptoms! Hopefully my car can be tuned to the correct settings, but that is just like me redoing what a chip should have done

Thanks for sharing your experience!

Ski

It could be a chip issue, all vendors have some every now and then that miss the mark of something happened to them, who knows when. However, I'll say one more time, check your wiring. I've installed 4 of these without issue, but we were absolutely **** about the wiring. If you know the wiring is right, try putting in the shorting plug and see how the car acts. Did you use the blue wire to get into the DME harness to power off #18 or did you run power seperate...I know you tried it off the battery.

porschefig

Bret-
Is the "shorting plug" the same as the jumper you referred to earlier?

"The jumper basically reconnects wire 7, which you cut and reterminated into two seperate wires, all others should have just been tapped."

I have the jumper wired just as decribed, and I have MAFterburner power from DME pin 18 and LR MAF power from the diagnostic plug. Before doing any wiring I checked for voltage at the diagnostic port and it was the same as at the battery, like you said; since wiring I've tried connecting straight to the battery.

Both my father (a certified mechanic for over 25 years) and I have double/triple checked the wires but I'll look again next time I'm near the car. I also plan on calling or emailing Lindsey racing for advice and to see if they have a basic tune I can download for my car. (they have MAFterburner files online but only for much more modified cars)

Thanks for the help! I was starting to look at "practical cars," something I know I'll laugh about when I'm driving my 951 again :-)

porschefig

I've looked through my records and want it to be clear that the chips are got from Russell are exactly what I ordered (a "MAF chip" but not one that automatically converts the MAF signal to one the DME understands).

What I'm left to wonder is this: will I ever have the fuel map that Russell tunes into his chips again? It really sounds like I have to tune my idle, part throttle, and WOT settings. I guess I'll look through people's dyno graphs and figure out what AFR I need at each boost level but unless I'm mistaken; I lost most of what I bought a chip for (the proper AFR) while retaining the ability to run higher boost without hitting overboost, and some timing changes (I think?).

Anyways, has Special Tool posted lately? I assume he knows where I need to get a WBO2 signal for my piggy back since I've heard that, in the past atleast, he runs a Zeitronix and a piggy back.

porschefig

http://www.zeitronix.com/Products/zt...bandoutput.htm
Which wideband output is correct for me to use?

porschefig

To me, it looks like the non linear curve has the proper range of AFRs and I assume it's more accurate.

I don't want to cut any more wires unnecessarily though!

porschefig

Maybe I should start a new thread on this specific topic?
There was just a thread about wiring a WBO2 to the SMT6 a month ago... maybe they know what to use!

88BlueTSiQuest

Sorry, I helped as far as I could based on my experiences.

My stuff is boxed up and waiting for me to find more money to throw at it.

porschefig

No need to be sorry! and hopefully when we get this figured out you won't need to throw more money at your parts!

porschefig

Matt @ Lindsey says to use the linear WB O2 output. That's what I'll go with unless I hear differently. He didn't think the nonlinear output was wide band though it shows it as one on the Zeitronix website.
http://www.zeitronix.com/Products/zt...bandoutput.htm

Also, my Zeitronix display reads 21:1 AFR when I decelerate.... and it's not even on the linear wide band 0-5 Volt scale in this picture...9.6-19.6 AFR...