Gator_86_951

Ok other MY86 DME in the car and we definitely have spark now. IT really wants to start, but it just don't catch.

I changed the plugs out and left them out for a least 10 minutes. Should I have left the old plugs out longer to let more fuel evaporate? That doesn't seem like the problem. Will double check fuel and spark again once I have somebody to help me here in a minute or two.

fast951

You need new plugs. If you cannot get them this late, heat the old plugs in the oven for about 15-20min.. Another trick that "might" help.

Gator_86_951

The plugs that are in there now are directly out of the box 6ES NGK plugs.

I have the ones I took out from the testing. If I still can't get it to fire with the ones in there now, I'll run to the house and try to heat the old ones for 15-20 minutes at like 250 degrees or so.

I realize there might be vacuum leaks, but not something so large that the car just won't fire.

Gator_86_951

I mean I guess I could drive up to gainesville to the walmart and get yet another set of plugs, but isn't that right where I am now unless I somehow fouled the new ones. Battery is back on the tender because it doesn't have enough juice right now, so I'll let it tend for 20-30 minutes again I guess.

fast951

If you are using new plugs, and if everything is hoocked up correctly it should fire. You need: Air, Fuel, Ignition and compression.
Make sure the distributor cap is installed correctly and not 180 off. Also, make sure the plug wires are connected correctly.

Gator_86_951

Just checked the wires and it is correct with the cylinders numbered 1 through 4 starting at the crank pulley at the front going towards the flywheel at the rear. Wires go bottom right (1) top right (2) bottom left (3) top left (4). Distributor cap as far as I know is symmetric, so you have to insure that the wires are correct if you had the wires on prior to installation, mine is installed with "Bosch" readable right side up.

I am going to check everything once travis gets down here. I am going to take the golf cart and maybe hasten his arrival. Thanks for all the help guys, it will start I hope. I am just afraid to damage anything as this is the first time I have ever put together an engine.

Gator_86_951

Basically fires momentarily then dies right now.

Rock

Check AFM or MAF if you have one

Gator_86_951

Well the only thing I can think is that there might be some vacuum leaks. The hose fittings on my intake shrank when the intake was ceramic coated, and I tried to repair them. But, they still press in so I don't think they could leak so much that the car won't start. The screw single banjo bolt intake fitting has been screwed down, but even if there as a leak there it wouldn't be big enough.

Car sounds like it is getting too much air and then dying. Maximum indicated RPM so far has been 1500. I don't want to keep trying and damage something.

Van

The cap isn't symetrical... there is a little tab that interlocks in one spot.

Van

Idle control stabilizer hoses hooked up?

Gator_86_951

I guess I'll take it off and look at it. I looked at the factory manual and clarks garage and there is no mention or orientation, so I will go and take a look.

Gator_86_951

Everything is hooked up, just checked. The only issue that I know of are the loose fittings. If it doesn't start tonight I guess I'll look for something to press in there tomorrow. As a temp solution I had used some silicone hoping I could spend the time driving around creation finding a fitting after the car started.

Gator_86_951

I'll check the dist cap and then see if I can find the way to jump the ISV which I don't think would cause it to not start. Had trouble finding that.

Have tried starting with the TPS connected and disconnected

Gator_86_951

OK I guess I saw that when I put it together because the distributor can was installed correctly with the notch directly below the top most retaining clip/phillips screw.