fast951

If you are getting fuel but no ignition. Look into the KLR as well.

At this stage, there is a good chance the plugs are saturated with fuel. So do not expect the engine to run. However, you can proceed with testing to verify ignition pulse.

Some of the things to test:

- You are getting power to the coil
- Try a different DME chip
- Try a different KLR box with a good chip. If you do not have a KLR handy, you can bypass the KLR alltogether (FOR TESTING ONLY) and see if you get spark. If you want to bypass the KLR, disconnect it from the KLR plug. Short on the KLR connector KLR #9 and KLR #16!
If you get spark with the above test, your KLR is the problem.

Once you get fuel and spark, before starting the engine, change the plugs.

Gator_86_951

When you say change the plugs do you mean get entirely new plugs? Napa had to order my NGK plugs.

fast951

Yes, get new plugs. Use the WR7DC for now, they should be in stock.

Rich Sandor

How did you verify this?

Gator_86_951

Thanks John. I am on the phone right now and I am getting the 6ES instead of the 7, which will be fine to start the car.

Gator_86_951

First, I pumped fuel through the lines to prime everything after draining old gas and replacing the fuel filter. Then, I was able to hear them firing. Pulled plugs, smells like fuel. We have a clear spark problem right now.

Rich Sandor

Hearing them firing and smelling fuel doesn't mean ****. You gotta actually SEE wet fuel on a kleenex in each chamber.

And when checking spark, you have to actually SEE a spark on the plugs. Are you not getting any visible spark when you ground the plug upon cranking?

Anything less is an ASSUMPTION and will make your troubleshooting take longer.

944CS

I will bet $100 you broke a wire inside the S&R sensor harness when doing the engine work...

Gator_86_951

ACCEPT! Just manually checked the DME adapter for continuity with each of the harness connections and they are fine. Checked each of the sensors and they are also fine because they are brand new. At least I know that isn't the issue and they are connected correctly. For reference for anybody whose bracket explodes when taking the car apart, which it will. My reference sensor bunch of wire that comes out of the DME harness inside the engine bay is wrapped in white and the speed sensor is black. Not sure if this is the same for all years, but quicker than making a huge wire to test for continuity.

My coil is good as I just checked it and I have a known good spark plug as a tester. Coil is not getting a fire signal when the engine is turned over. Coil does get the initial fire signal when the ignition key is first turned on.

I am going to jumper the KLR as suggested by john next. We'll see how that goes, hopefully I will get something out of the coil that way.

Gator_86_951

Thankfully I have a MY 86 known working KLR in another car I can borrow, but shorting to see if it is the problem is faster than crawling on the floor of that car

Gator_86_951

Also, clarks garage lists 78 as a pin for the reference sensor. This must be for another MY as the 85/2 diagram which is what I used lists pin 5 and this had continuity with my reference sensor in engine bay connector. So, my turbo jives with the 85/2 turbo diagram.

Gator_86_951

Ah, I see where clark got the 78 pin designation. In the engine manual the bracket is shown with pin 78 in the picture he uses on his website. Well now it is in here I guess.

Gator_86_951

Ok, got spark with KLR jumpered. I guess I will go ahead and remove the KLR from our known working MY 86 turbo. Plug that one in, and see if the thing will spark again.

fast951

There you go, KLR it is. Now when I call you for legal advise (hope I never need it), I don't expect a bill
Fix the car and back to the books!

Gator_86_951

I am about to put the other MY86 KLR in the car with your DME chip in my DME, if that makes sense. I forgot how much of a horrible pain it is to take them out from the mounting location. Good thing they made those top plastic screw things phillips to make it easier to take off!