Locking Front Strut Eccentric bolts
#1
Burning Brakes
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For the past few years I have been running stainless steel plates in place of the eccentrics for the front strut upper bolt joint. The idea is that this locks the spindle in the optimal position with respect to strut. Camber adjustment is then provided by adjustable upper camber plates.
Its a great setup and I have never had any prolems with strut movement. Perfect for GT cars.
The problem is that PCA does not allow upper camber adjustment in stock class, so my camber plates are locked in the "stock" postion. and I can't get the right front camber adjustment.
For this year I have gone back to the factory eccentrics so I can set front camber correctly. Now I am concerned with the eccentrics loosening up and ruining camber and toe, and the supension loosening up.
I have seen some cars weld the eccentric to the strut, once its set, but that looks agricultural. I am considering drilling through the eccentric washer into the strut clamp and then the spindle and use a small roll pin or set screw.
Anyone had any success with other solutions.
Its a great setup and I have never had any prolems with strut movement. Perfect for GT cars.
The problem is that PCA does not allow upper camber adjustment in stock class, so my camber plates are locked in the "stock" postion. and I can't get the right front camber adjustment.
For this year I have gone back to the factory eccentrics so I can set front camber correctly. Now I am concerned with the eccentrics loosening up and ruining camber and toe, and the supension loosening up.
I have seen some cars weld the eccentric to the strut, once its set, but that looks agricultural. I am considering drilling through the eccentric washer into the strut clamp and then the spindle and use a small roll pin or set screw.
Anyone had any success with other solutions.
#3
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Safety wire will work well for this. Once you get it set properly, wire it in place, and it the wire ever breaks, you know that it's loosening up on you, but I've never seen one back out under normal conditions.
#5
Burning Brakes
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Yes I now have the eccentric both washer and bolt. I have seen and heard many examples of them coming loose in DE/Race/Autocross situations, which is why I am concerned. I have heard that loctite may help but no guarantees. I thought about lockwire but I can't see it holding and there's no good place to wire to. I am favouring drilling and tapping with a set screw at this time.
The rules don't allow any changes that would enhance performance, but drilling and locking is OK,
The rules don't allow any changes that would enhance performance, but drilling and locking is OK,
Last edited by samluke; 03-06-2008 at 05:14 PM.
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I don't have to worry about this in GTS...I'm very interested in these plates you mentioned...do you have a link...and pics...thanks...in a pinch i had to but a bolt with a wide head...and just ground one side so it can't spin...then I do the camber adjustment with camber plates...
#7
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For the past few years I have been running stainless steel plates in place of the eccentrics for the front strut upper bolt joint. The idea is that this locks the spindle in the optimal position with respect to strut. Camber adjustment is then provided by adjustable upper camber plates.
Its a great setup and I have never had any prolems with strut movement. Perfect for GT cars.
The problem is that PCA does not allow upper camber adjustment in stock class, so my camber plates are locked in the "stock" postion. and I can't get the right front camber adjustment.
For this year I have gone back to the factory eccentrics so I can set front camber correctly. Now I am concerned with the eccentrics loosening up and ruining camber and toe, and the supension loosening up.
I have seen some cars weld the eccentric to the strut, once its set, but that looks agricultural. I am considering drilling through the eccentric washer into the strut clamp and then the spindle and use a small roll pin or set screw.
Anyone had any success with other solutions.
Its a great setup and I have never had any prolems with strut movement. Perfect for GT cars.
The problem is that PCA does not allow upper camber adjustment in stock class, so my camber plates are locked in the "stock" postion. and I can't get the right front camber adjustment.
For this year I have gone back to the factory eccentrics so I can set front camber correctly. Now I am concerned with the eccentrics loosening up and ruining camber and toe, and the supension loosening up.
I have seen some cars weld the eccentric to the strut, once its set, but that looks agricultural. I am considering drilling through the eccentric washer into the strut clamp and then the spindle and use a small roll pin or set screw.
Anyone had any success with other solutions.
Unfortunately I don't have more details on how he did it.
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#8
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If you buy or have a Longacre camber/caster magnetic gauge, you can just attach it to the wheels to see if anything is moved. We didn't have on come loose, but we checked them after every second DE just to confirm torque, this was on lots of stuff though. If you keep a regular check, I can't see them coming loose personally.
#9
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I run an agressive [but PCA Stock-legal] setup at a gross weight of 3250# with driver [944SuperCup class weight] and Hoosiers. After constant problems with maintaining camber settings, it became clear that the clamping force of the stock eccentric bolts was just not enough for this setup.
The answer [for me, at least] was weld-align. I lock the shock to spindle setting with a light tack weld. Seriously. Its very easy to cut the tack with a dremel when required, and the settings hold without question.
The answer [for me, at least] was weld-align. I lock the shock to spindle setting with a light tack weld. Seriously. Its very easy to cut the tack with a dremel when required, and the settings hold without question.
#11
#12
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I have seen the weld technique, but decided against it. I ended up using 1/8" roll pins. I drilled through the eccentric washer through the strut metal and into the spindle. I installed the roll pins with blue loctite and left a fair amount exposed.
I figured I should have enough to grab onto and get them out when I need to. The small holes will allow me to line everything up again, if and when I pull it apart again.
I only put roll pins through the one side, ie the bolt side. If thats not enough I'll have to do the washer side as well, or try something different.
I figured I should have enough to grab onto and get them out when I need to. The small holes will allow me to line everything up again, if and when I pull it apart again.
I only put roll pins through the one side, ie the bolt side. If thats not enough I'll have to do the washer side as well, or try something different.
#13
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this may sound stupid but i use a little bit of jb weld when i do not want something to come loose. When it comes time to taking it apart it will break and come out fairly easy. my luck with lock tight is not very good lol