philcav7

Spring is coming soon and I need to get a few things sorted out in the next couple of weeks. My cam tower gasket is leaking on to the headers so I am going to replace it. I figure while I am in there, I will change the water pump since it may be original. I have read clarks and several threads here regarding these procedures, so I have a decent idea of the scope of work. What I really need help with is knowing what will break during removal and what "extra" parts I should buy BEFORE starting. I want to avoid putting the project on hold because I am missing a $3 gasket/bolt/O-ring/etc.
I know WP bolts have been problematic for many, are there other common issues like this?

So far I know I plan on buying a WP, Timing belt/roller kit, cam tower gasket


...What else should I get ahead of time?

Thanks for your time.

mortymower

Get the rear cam gasket to because its a 5 minute job with the tower off, and about 45 with it on, so its a big while your in there item. If you are doing the front engine seals while your in there, then make sure you buy the three flanges (1 for camshaft and each balance shaft) that the inner seal lip rests on. IF your are not reasealing then forget this and just stick to the rear cam gasket. Theres probably a few more things, but I cant think of them at the moment. Good luck

philcav7

Guess I should have mentioned...

I will also be:

Installing SS fuel lines
Installing Tial WG
Venturi delete

ELLSSUU

What year is the car? If an early model you might need to consider your crossover with the TIAL. Also, search for the official Venturi delete thread. If I remember there is a hose that does not come with the delete kit that you might need. Another while you're in there is to send your injectors to Witchunter to be cleaned and rebuilt. Not expensive and they flowtest them for you while they rebuild.

2bridges

Hey Phil - good time to do all front seals too. you will already be right there and those a bitch to tear doen that far just for a few seals......

Great time to do all hoses as well if not already done, vac hosses too

philcav7

The car is an 1986, with the original crossover. Just for clarification, I don't need to remove the X-over to install the WG, do I? Why do you recommend the Xover update?

Thanks for the heads up about the hose issue, it's been awhile since I have read through the write ups & diagrams. I have the europarts kit and silicon hose kit. I will have to inventory what it came with.

The injectors will have to wait until next summer...for the much anticipated MAF and turbo upgrade.

hosrom_951

Front engine seals on the list while replacing the pump/belts & rollers.

Also that rear cam housing gasket since the cam housing is off.

951Saga

I would recommend the oil cooler housing seals, oil pressure relief valve update
w/ installation tool, and order two or three of the rear cam tower cork gaskets.
I smashed the first one and thought the second one was too compressed.
I think the specified torque specs are too high.

Good luck and Enjoy!

Bltzkrg

You shouldn't have to remove the cross over to install or remove the Waste gate, then again situations do arise where unnecessary parts come of haha, but no you shouldn't.

Gator_86_951

As far as tools you are going to need either a nice shortened t-handle allen wrench or a turned down allen socket to get the bolts that hold the cam tower to the cylinder head off. I had a set of metric t-handles and I cut it down with a chop saw because if it is too long it will twist too much. Even though those bolts are like 15 ft-lbs spec, getting them off if they have been there forever is a horrendous pain.

philcav7

Thanks for the input/feedback from all of you! I will add a front seal kit to my order.


I haven't been able to determine if there is a benefit to switching to the newer style waterpump. Is there any drawbacks to the original 86 design? It's a little cheaper to stick with the 86 design.

Chris White

Some tools worth getting – an extended shaft 6mm Allen drive for your 3/8” ratchet wrench. Do not use the ball type for the internal 6mm bolts( the ball may break off – and that is a real pain in the butt!). The other tool is a 6mm ball head allen drive (again – for you 3/8” ratchet wrench) – this is for use on some of the lower 6mm external bolts.
The shortened T handle allen wrench can work but it is better to use the 3/8” drive – you may need the leverage.
If you are going to do the front seals you will need the special tool to hold the balance shaft gears in place when you want to remove the mounting bolt.

ryanm6100

turbo 4" turbo back exhaust 3.0L conversion headers aggressive camshaft dry sump a/c delete

Wait, what were we talking about?

philcav7

I assume that the $180 Arnnworx kit does not include this? Where would I find one of these?

http://www.arnnworx.com/enginetoolsets.htm

Also, are there other options for a flywheel lock or should I just pick up one from Arnnworx?

http://www.arnnworx.com/flywheel_lock.htm


Thanks again.
-Phil

mortymower

arnworx flywheel lock is good and pretty cheao IIRC, I have used it many times with no trouble