Keithr726

I believe my evo diverter valve is opening too soon. I can here a boost leak in that area under boost. I'm also seeing late spool up from my stock k26, where should it see full boost (14psi)? Also when I shift and I hear the diverter valve the car goes rich (low 10s) for a moment, would this be caused by my valve?

Lindsey sells a stiffer spring for $10
http://www.lindseyracing.com/mm5/mer...de=BYPASSVALVE

or what looks like the better deal,
forge motorsport 4 different springs for $15
http://www.forgemotorsport.com/conte...roduct=FMDVTUN

IPSC

Your right the stock spring is weak.

As for the two options above, I have both forge spring kit and the Lindsey stiff spring. I have not had a chance to try either of them yet. The Lindsey spring is longer and "feels" the equivalent of the blue spring in the Forge kit.

I am going to try the Forge spring first when I get everything back together and to the Dyno here in the next couple of weeks.

Either option is better than what is in the EVO valve stock. Also I would suggest regreasing the O rings in the valve with a thick grease from time to time as well.

IPSC

Keithr726

Thanks! I'll probably just get the forge kit as it looks like a better deal.

Loquat15

Nah dude, just go back to stock!!! :-D

Keithr726

no thanks, rubber diaphrams don't belong on my turbo sytem.

porschefig

BUMP

IPSC, Keith, others
Which spring in the forge kit was the "right" one for you?

I read the next thread in my search and found this:

ehall

I'm using the yellow spring. My boost goes to 18 psi.

Keithr726

I used the second strongest spring and its still going rich however I think it is unavoidable.

porschefig

Mine goes rich when I lift the throttle too... even if there's no boost..
But I'm not blaming that on the DV. My problem is the flutter.. The spring kit is fairly inexpensive (not that I think 4 springs cost very much) so I want to play with it a bit and see what changes I can make.

blown 944

For the "rich off throttle" condition you may want to look at the TPS adjustment.
It should cut fuel at anything over ~1600 rpm when the throttle closes. If it is not adjusted properly it will continue to add a little fuel between shifts and on decel.

porschefig

If it seems like the TPS clicks *exactly* when the throttle opens/closes would you adjust it so it clicks RIGHT after it opens /before it closes?

globalmike

did you guys have a problem sliding the barbed end into the j-boot or into the rubber hose? I had problems and ripped the j-boot. should i just upgrade to an aluminium inlet tube or pick up another rubber j-boot

Ballistic-Chapman

anyone have a functioning EVO DV? I have one sitting in my closet waiting to be installed.
great sig Keith. Any more pics up?

ehall

It depends on your budget. I guess you could fab an aluminium inlet tube, but you can't just "upgrade" or "buy" one. If you mean that you are thinking of upgrading to a MAF, then yes, you should. The better solution is to use a different recirc valve that fits properly, such as the stock piece, a 930 piece of a Forge brand recirc valve...among a number of other good and proper valves. Then you can pick up a new J boot on ebay.
The best solution is to go MAF, but it will cost a bit more.

Keithr726

I didn't have much of a problem, just twist it a bit. I believe metal inlet pipes are around $200 and lindsey, vitesse, and SFR all make them. If they made ones to work with the AFM you'd obviously need a silicone hose to attach it to the AFM. I have a slightly used J-boot with <900 miles that is still quite new and not hardened. PM me if interested.

Yes I'm thinking about updating/organizing the body project thread because its basically done. Took a few quick pics the other day just need to find the time to upload and post when I'm not busy.