Lifters
#1
Advanced
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Las Cruces, NM
Posts: 84
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Lifters
are our lifters hydraylic or no???
i got a mad loud clicking from my number 2 cylinder from the head and need to know if there hydraluic or not.
i got a mad loud clicking from my number 2 cylinder from the head and need to know if there hydraluic or not.
#3
Rennlist Member
yes hydraulic is correct. I replaced all eight of mine since the car sat for 2+ years b4 I bought it to the tune of $3-400 my cost, cant remember exactly, but $50 each sounds right.
#4
Advanced
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Las Cruces, NM
Posts: 84
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
cool. yea i got a loud clicking from the head, so im going with lifters. so now the deciding factor, do i go ahead and spend the extra money and do solid lifters. if so what do i need to need to get to accomadate them
or
do i just get regular lifters and hope that fixes the problom.
or
do i just get regular lifters and hope that fixes the problom.
#6
DasBoost - if you plan just hyd lifters, you better plan on a cam also.
When you remove cam look for horizontal light lines across the lobes.... look almost like shadows or light pencil scribings..... will likely find many on a few specific lobes.
This is the hardened cam facing wear through from the lifter bouncing across the lobe and poor anti-scuffing additives (ZDDP) in modern oils.
good luck
When you remove cam look for horizontal light lines across the lobes.... look almost like shadows or light pencil scribings..... will likely find many on a few specific lobes.
This is the hardened cam facing wear through from the lifter bouncing across the lobe and poor anti-scuffing additives (ZDDP) in modern oils.
good luck
#7
Rennlist Member
The solids are spaced with the thickness of the lifter cap. There are inspection holes added to the cam cover to use a feeler gauge to find out what thickness of lifter cap you need. You have to remove the cam cover to replace the lifter caps with the correct size to get the proper clearance. You should have a sheet to keep track of the size of each lifter cap, and any changes made.
The people going solid are wary of the new hydraulic lifters available today being softer than the originals. I currently have hydraulics, but they are all factory original lifters. The new ones that were put in died after only 10,000 miles. If my current hydraulics go and I am on a budget I would try to find some original lifters. I would however go solid over buying what is available today as new lifters.
The people going solid are wary of the new hydraulic lifters available today being softer than the originals. I currently have hydraulics, but they are all factory original lifters. The new ones that were put in died after only 10,000 miles. If my current hydraulics go and I am on a budget I would try to find some original lifters. I would however go solid over buying what is available today as new lifters.
Trending Topics
#9
Rennlist Member
I don't know about substandard hydraulics, but unless you're planning on major boost, high rpms there's no real need to go solids from what I've read. I guess talk to those that have done it. They are not without their issues too.
#10
Some people think that the new replacement lifters on the market are sub par compaired to factory ones.
It decided not to take may chances on this since I was going to use a hotter cam and stiff valve springs. The solids also ended letting me use a com grind that no hydrolic lifters can handle.
I have had no problem with the actual solids, but I have had a problem with a valve guide that was unrelated.
It only really maakes sense to do the solids if you are ging to get other head work and a cam at the same time.
It decided not to take may chances on this since I was going to use a hotter cam and stiff valve springs. The solids also ended letting me use a com grind that no hydrolic lifters can handle.
I have had no problem with the actual solids, but I have had a problem with a valve guide that was unrelated.
It only really maakes sense to do the solids if you are ging to get other head work and a cam at the same time.
#11
Advanced
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Las Cruces, NM
Posts: 84
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
well as i drive its thru all the gears and its mad loud. and i have only 2 bar oil pressure at idle. and between 3 and 4 bar while running. its either ****ty lifters or a bad oil pump. other than that im at a loss of words on what it could be.
thank u all for ur input
BUT since the pocket book will only allow regular hydraulic lifters and no cam at the moment that seems to be where im headed. dammit. oh to get the oil pan off to do the oil pump do u gota lift the motor off the x-member?
thank u all for ur input
BUT since the pocket book will only allow regular hydraulic lifters and no cam at the moment that seems to be where im headed. dammit. oh to get the oil pan off to do the oil pump do u gota lift the motor off the x-member?
#13
Advanced
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Las Cruces, NM
Posts: 84
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
yea thats like doing surgery with a hammer. pointless.
well heres the **** kicker. is it the lifters or the oil pump, cuz both of them are 700 bux. (of course rediculous) i get decent oil pressure at start up. 4 1/2 bar. then about 10 mins of driving brings it to 3 bar. and my favorite lifter clicking is back and annoying, which is not cool.
well heres the **** kicker. is it the lifters or the oil pump, cuz both of them are 700 bux. (of course rediculous) i get decent oil pressure at start up. 4 1/2 bar. then about 10 mins of driving brings it to 3 bar. and my favorite lifter clicking is back and annoying, which is not cool.
#14
yea thats like doing surgery with a hammer. pointless.
well heres the **** kicker. is it the lifters or the oil pump, cuz both of them are 700 bux. (of course rediculous) i get decent oil pressure at start up. 4 1/2 bar. then about 10 mins of driving brings it to 3 bar. and my favorite lifter clicking is back and annoying, which is not cool.
well heres the **** kicker. is it the lifters or the oil pump, cuz both of them are 700 bux. (of course rediculous) i get decent oil pressure at start up. 4 1/2 bar. then about 10 mins of driving brings it to 3 bar. and my favorite lifter clicking is back and annoying, which is not cool.
#15
Rennlist Member
TMS, how long have you had your solids? Is your cam a Webcam via Lindsay with their stock WC profile?