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Old 02-12-2008, 07:48 PM
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DasBOOST
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Default Lifters

are our lifters hydraylic or no???



i got a mad loud clicking from my number 2 cylinder from the head and need to know if there hydraluic or not.
Old 02-12-2008, 08:00 PM
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fortysixandtwo
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Unless someones done a reletivley expensive solid lifter conversion, they're hydraulic.
Old 02-12-2008, 08:41 PM
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Spidey944
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yes hydraulic is correct. I replaced all eight of mine since the car sat for 2+ years b4 I bought it to the tune of $3-400 my cost, cant remember exactly, but $50 each sounds right.
Old 02-12-2008, 10:17 PM
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DasBOOST
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cool. yea i got a loud clicking from the head, so im going with lifters. so now the deciding factor, do i go ahead and spend the extra money and do solid lifters. if so what do i need to need to get to accomadate them
or
do i just get regular lifters and hope that fixes the problom.
Old 02-12-2008, 10:59 PM
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wolfenstein
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most do solids with a bigger cam, not sure how adjustment is done either
Old 02-12-2008, 11:33 PM
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2bridges
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DasBoost - if you plan just hyd lifters, you better plan on a cam also.

When you remove cam look for horizontal light lines across the lobes.... look almost like shadows or light pencil scribings..... will likely find many on a few specific lobes.

This is the hardened cam facing wear through from the lifter bouncing across the lobe and poor anti-scuffing additives (ZDDP) in modern oils.

good luck
Old 02-12-2008, 11:42 PM
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RKD in OKC
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The solids are spaced with the thickness of the lifter cap. There are inspection holes added to the cam cover to use a feeler gauge to find out what thickness of lifter cap you need. You have to remove the cam cover to replace the lifter caps with the correct size to get the proper clearance. You should have a sheet to keep track of the size of each lifter cap, and any changes made.

The people going solid are wary of the new hydraulic lifters available today being softer than the originals. I currently have hydraulics, but they are all factory original lifters. The new ones that were put in died after only 10,000 miles. If my current hydraulics go and I am on a budget I would try to find some original lifters. I would however go solid over buying what is available today as new lifters.
Old 02-13-2008, 03:43 AM
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porschefig
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Your headers are probably loose on one cylinder...
Check out solid lifter conversion prices on the Lindsey Racing site...
Old 02-13-2008, 03:47 AM
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333pg333
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I don't know about substandard hydraulics, but unless you're planning on major boost, high rpms there's no real need to go solids from what I've read. I guess talk to those that have done it. They are not without their issues too.
Old 02-13-2008, 11:30 AM
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Tms951
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Some people think that the new replacement lifters on the market are sub par compaired to factory ones.

It decided not to take may chances on this since I was going to use a hotter cam and stiff valve springs. The solids also ended letting me use a com grind that no hydrolic lifters can handle.

I have had no problem with the actual solids, but I have had a problem with a valve guide that was unrelated.

It only really maakes sense to do the solids if you are ging to get other head work and a cam at the same time.
Old 02-13-2008, 08:27 PM
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DasBOOST
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well as i drive its thru all the gears and its mad loud. and i have only 2 bar oil pressure at idle. and between 3 and 4 bar while running. its either ****ty lifters or a bad oil pump. other than that im at a loss of words on what it could be.
thank u all for ur input
BUT since the pocket book will only allow regular hydraulic lifters and no cam at the moment that seems to be where im headed. dammit. oh to get the oil pan off to do the oil pump do u gota lift the motor off the x-member?
Old 02-13-2008, 08:34 PM
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2bridges
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EEEK! Worst case you can send cam to webcam and have regrind for $225ish I think. You put new lifters on a damaged cam you might as well not bother....

my 02
Old 02-14-2008, 06:23 PM
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DasBOOST
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yea thats like doing surgery with a hammer. pointless.

well heres the **** kicker. is it the lifters or the oil pump, cuz both of them are 700 bux. (of course rediculous) i get decent oil pressure at start up. 4 1/2 bar. then about 10 mins of driving brings it to 3 bar. and my favorite lifter clicking is back and annoying, which is not cool.
Old 02-14-2008, 07:01 PM
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Tms951
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Originally Posted by DasBOOST
yea thats like doing surgery with a hammer. pointless.

well heres the **** kicker. is it the lifters or the oil pump, cuz both of them are 700 bux. (of course rediculous) i get decent oil pressure at start up. 4 1/2 bar. then about 10 mins of driving brings it to 3 bar. and my favorite lifter clicking is back and annoying, which is not cool.
Well do all the lifters make sound or just some. If it is some I would say some lifters are bad. If it is uniform accross the valve train then maybe your oil pressure is not high enough to keep them filled (oil pump). Do they click on start up when the pressure is high? Is the oil you are running thick enough? Do you have an oil leak any where which is dropping the oil presure?
Old 02-14-2008, 08:01 PM
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333pg333
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TMS, how long have you had your solids? Is your cam a Webcam via Lindsay with their stock WC profile?


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