Changing belts and rollers. Should I upgrade to spring loaded tensioner?
#1
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After dodging a bullet with my timing belt about to break, I'm installing new belts, rollers and waterpump. I am installing the new style pump and have a 87 and up spring loaded tensioner to install. I would like some opinions if this upgrade is actually an improvement.
#2
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Not really. If you know how to set the tension and have a good way to measure it, the spring setup does not get you anything. It makes retensions faster if you trust the spring's tension though.
-Joel.
-Joel.
#4
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yeah- having done both- spring tensioner makes tensioning easier- but makes swapping belts a nightmare. Im sticking w/ the old style now that i have the proper tools.
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You also have to tap the block to install the spring tensioner. As mentioned with the proper measuring tools there is no benefit to switching.
#6
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I'm glad to see this topic. I just bought an '86 951 engine and later realized it hasn't got the spring tensioner. I seemed to remember people disliking it but couldn't remember.
Another reason why '86s are the best, eh?
Another reason why '86s are the best, eh?
#7
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I like the 968 style. Pull the pin.....done!
For those wondering. The spring tensioner can be installed onto the 86 blocks, but requires drilling and tapping holes. The good new is, that the bosses for these holes were cast into the non spring tension blocks.
For those wondering. The spring tensioner can be installed onto the 86 blocks, but requires drilling and tapping holes. The good new is, that the bosses for these holes were cast into the non spring tension blocks.
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#8
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The only benefit I can think of is that the spring version will always provide tension even if the adjusting nuts get loose. Having said that, with the lock nuts used, I've never had an adjuster nut loosen at all. I wouldn't bother retrofitting myself.
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I've converted one motor only because we had a tensioner and the block was bare and out of the car. The benefit to swapping is the eliminating the chance of the adjustment eccentric shearing off on the early style tensioner and causing damage (only personally seen this twice though). You still need to use a belt-tensioning gauge on the later tensioners and they make belt changes a bit more of a pain in the ***.
If the motor's in the car I wouldn't attempt the swap as drilling the new holes in the proper location, depth, and angle will be tough. If it's out if the car it’s a matter of personal preference.
If the motor's in the car I wouldn't attempt the swap as drilling the new holes in the proper location, depth, and angle will be tough. If it's out if the car it’s a matter of personal preference.