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951 oil cooler set up pic request.

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Old 01-22-2008, 01:26 PM
  #31  
evil 944t
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To be honest with you, I did it just to do it. Prior to the change, I haven't had any problems other than leaks. This spring, the car(its a street car) will see some track time but in the form of DE's.
Old 01-22-2008, 01:31 PM
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anders44
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Originally Posted by Phil R
well if i decide to do a ps cooler I would definitely change all the lines and the reservoir like you suggested. i would probably leave the high pressure line alone for the short term just because it is the only line not leaking now.

my question for the ps system is how do you know you NEED additional cooling? what kind of drive ability issues show up if the system is overheating?

it sounds like most people dont really do this very often. I have new stock lines (3)and reservoir that cost about $340 so for that price I could go aftermarket no prob. considering the stock system is not the most durable a little leak prone pernhaps i should just do it right versus taking the time to install stock parts

what do you guys think?
it overheats, my old car would do it and you would loose powersteering at random.. that kinda sucked, so ps cooling is no joke and is needed. this is track related only, never happend on public roads, autocross is the worst at it, iceracing 2nd, and a good 3rd is regular track, it would overheat than as well.
Old 01-22-2008, 02:37 PM
  #33  
Phil R
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On oil cooler topic: my car is a dual use street car and track car. I looked at the driver side and I dont seem to have much room unless I want to remove AC and the brake vent hose. I dont think I can fit a core in that location. I think for my needs a long thin core might provide the best fitment. I would just mount it in front of the ac core.


on the PS Topic: anders could you provide details concerning how the lines are routed? the hard lines that attach to the rack are routed in such a way that running all AN lines would be a challenge. how do you deal with the banjo bolt fittings?
Old 01-22-2008, 02:45 PM
  #34  
Ski
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on the driver side, just info here, there are already holes if you invert the stock cooler, they match up perfectly on the radiator support bracket.
Old 01-22-2008, 03:01 PM
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Techno Duck
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Im wondering, is it possible to run to many oil coolers (or to large of), IE cause pressure drop? Also does oil capacity increase much by going with these larger coolers? Or is the difference negligible?
Old 01-22-2008, 03:15 PM
  #36  
evil 944t
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Yes, there is a point where the pressure drop gets bad. Some of the cheaper coolers cause large drops. I haven't seen a failed motor because of this but I have seen of data logs with pressure drops. I would say its nothing more than a slow death. Stick to name brand coolers. I like Mocals.

Regarding capacity, depends on the size of the cooler and lines.
Old 01-22-2008, 04:35 PM
  #37  
Phil R
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for those of you with driver side mounted cooler did you remove the or reconfigure the brake vents and/or remove AC?

pics of a good PS core replacement would be very helpful. I was unable to find much during a search. like i said some of fittings are tricky.

on the oil cooler should i go with a standard porsche 30mm connection not AN or NPT? with 30mm i should be able to have custom made lines similar to oem? The thing i hate about SS lines is that they will rub and destroy anything they come in contact with
Old 01-22-2008, 06:55 PM
  #38  
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If you run a stock cooler on the driver side, there is still room to get an air duct, 3" round opening in the front lower area. It grabs about 90% of the air.
sorry for the dark pic but this is from the passenger side but you can see the hose on the other side too.

here was a trail fit photo before getting everything correct and mounted.

Old 01-23-2008, 01:53 PM
  #39  
Phil R
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one option would be to run duel oem oil coolers, one on each side. I cant do this because the oem cooler is very expensive and i dont like the idea of running all the additional lines. so back to a front mount set up.

after looking at the cooler one the car now I think it may be the KISS oil cooler. as I said before I want to replace it because it is damaged and the ground clearance is very poor and i'm worried that if it gets hit again it will spring a leak.

in an effort to minimise the length and weight of the lines I think i'm going to go with a front mount Setrab core from ELEPHANT RACING http://www.elephantracing.com/notes/...erfittings.htm
1-STD915 16 x 4-1/2 x 2

I have a question about the lines. what is the size of the male/male adapter that goes into the housing that is bolted to the block? is this a 22mm or is it a 30mm?

if i can order the core with the same size male fitting i can order 2 custom lines that have the same 30mm female fitting on it. I want to go with a oem style hose with professionally crimped fittings. this saves weight over SS lines and reduces the possibility the stainless line will rub something.

this core has side mount ports which will reduce the length and improve the clearance and likely improve oil flow

do you guys think this core is a appropriate size?

I guess the next step is order the core so I can install it and measure the lines
Old 01-23-2008, 02:11 PM
  #40  
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m22x1.5 on the setrabs, same as block. you get AN lines with different bradeings, and some without. crimp fittings are only good if the guy doing them are.
Old 01-23-2008, 03:28 PM
  #41  
Phil R
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ok, just to clarify, the fitting coming off the block ( the male/male fitting) is 22mm so I order a male fitting on that side assuming I dont decide to adapt it to the more restrictive 12AN fitting (or so I'm told).

Anders44 are you saying that I should order the setrab core in a 22mm or is that how they come? I know many coolers made in the usa are NPT and then you put on whatever fitting you want. does setrab come with a pipe thread fitting or is a compression type? what type of fitting/adapter would I need.

as for the quality of crimping, the same could be said for making AN lines. only as good as the person making them. as long as you follow instrctions it is pretty easy.

so what would recommend for the hose other then stainless? it sounds like you think i should go AN and not mess with custom hoses.

on my last car I used a sandwich adapter with NPT to AN adapters into a stand alone mocal thermo then AN adapters into NPT on a B&M core(11x8). all stainless lines AN 10. --12 different fittings in less then 3 feet of line.
Old 01-23-2008, 03:41 PM
  #42  
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setrab come as M22x1,5
block is M22x1.5

-10 is commonly used for wetsumps, and -12 for drysumps, some 911's use -12 but they have front mounted oil coolers and engine all the way in the back! then again, some run dry sump as well...

summitracing sells load of cool an hoses, get some with a regular nomex braiding or whatever floats your boat.

don't mix in NPT, no need, it's a metric car, and setrab is a metric cooler.. ahh I love metrics and AN.
Old 01-23-2008, 05:20 PM
  #43  
Phil R
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ok I think I understand the fittings. please correct me if i'm wrong

the male male fitting on the oil line housing located on the block is a metric flare M22x1.5 X -10AN so basically a metric AN

here is a listing of mocal made metric an fittings. http://64.202.180.37/files/metric.pdf

so all I need to do is choose my angles and buy the metric flare M22x1.5 X -10AN fittings I want then

choose my core, I the one listed above

then order line. i'm thinking this stuff -- aeroquip starlite seems like great, but very expensive $180 for 10 ft.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
Old 01-23-2008, 05:40 PM
  #44  
anders44
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Originally Posted by Phil R
ok I think I understand the fittings. please correct me if i'm wrong

the male male fitting on the oil line housing located on the block is a metric flare M22x1.5 X -10AN so basically a metric AN

here is a listing of mocal made metric an fittings. http://64.202.180.37/files/metric.pdf

so all I need to do is choose my angles and buy the metric flare M22x1.5 X -10AN fittings I want then

choose my core, I the one listed above

then order line. i'm thinking this stuff -- aeroquip starlite seems like great, but very expensive $180 for 10 ft.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
both setrab and engine are female m22x1.5, hence you use the setrab male M22x1,5 male to male An -10

the stock fitting on block is a MALE to MALE m22x1.5, which you remove.

so you just need 4 of thoose nice MALE 22x1.5 to MALE AN -10, from setrab.
Old 01-23-2008, 07:44 PM
  #45  
Phil R
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got it.

so I'll need to pull the oil line housing off the block right?


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