951 oil cooler set up pic request.
#18
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I'm running a single cooler
this is a 19row double with unit, not even a single width will fit on the passenger side, hence the placement on driverside.
I did limited racing before season ended so did not get to log anything, but oil pressure was excelent suggesting no trouble with high temp, but I have the stuff inplace ready for season start now so I will log then. if it proves not to be sufficient still, I will remove the PS cooling lines, put them in a dedicated setrab as well, and run twin doublewith 19's one on each side.
regular vs double width 19row setrab. reason I choose setrab is the BTU rating.
mounting tabs in 1mm alu bent so it has strength, all monting tabs has a rubber hose on the bolt for vibration dampening
one way valve and Tee fitting for the accusump
this is a 19row double with unit, not even a single width will fit on the passenger side, hence the placement on driverside.
I did limited racing before season ended so did not get to log anything, but oil pressure was excelent suggesting no trouble with high temp, but I have the stuff inplace ready for season start now so I will log then. if it proves not to be sufficient still, I will remove the PS cooling lines, put them in a dedicated setrab as well, and run twin doublewith 19's one on each side.
regular vs double width 19row setrab. reason I choose setrab is the BTU rating.
mounting tabs in 1mm alu bent so it has strength, all monting tabs has a rubber hose on the bolt for vibration dampening
one way valve and Tee fitting for the accusump
#20
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I'm running a single cooler
this is a 19row double with unit, not even a single width will fit on the passenger side, hence the placement on driverside.
I did limited racing before season ended so did not get to log anything, but oil pressure was excelent suggesting no trouble with high temp, but I have the stuff inplace ready for season start now so I will log then. if it proves not to be sufficient still, I will remove the PS cooling lines, put them in a dedicated setrab as well, and run twin doublewith 19's one on each side.
regular vs double width 19row setrab. reason I choose setrab is the BTU rating.
mounting tabs in 1mm alu bent so it has strength, all monting tabs has a rubber hose on the bolt for vibration dampening
one way valve and Tee fitting for the accusump
this is a 19row double with unit, not even a single width will fit on the passenger side, hence the placement on driverside.
I did limited racing before season ended so did not get to log anything, but oil pressure was excelent suggesting no trouble with high temp, but I have the stuff inplace ready for season start now so I will log then. if it proves not to be sufficient still, I will remove the PS cooling lines, put them in a dedicated setrab as well, and run twin doublewith 19's one on each side.
regular vs double width 19row setrab. reason I choose setrab is the BTU rating.
mounting tabs in 1mm alu bent so it has strength, all monting tabs has a rubber hose on the bolt for vibration dampening
one way valve and Tee fitting for the accusump
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#24
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Ss for temps I can only say by touching it and by oilpressure it looks good. I have now mounted the tempsensor so I can datalog it.
my stock cooler was clogged up, and the fins were corroded and very bad shape, 20years of use takes its toll. you could scrape it away with a fingernail.
also, when you quote, don't quite with the img urls.
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#26
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bbbbahahahahahhaa yeah all i can say is very messy lol. I am going with 19 row -12 lines
Last edited by reno808; 01-22-2008 at 12:48 PM.
#27
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I like how the cooler is mounted on the driver side but i'm not psyched about the super long lines i guess it is better then a cooler that does not fit properly in the front mount pass side set up I have now.
what size an lines are you running? are those 10an? how many feet should I order? I could measure but if someone knows speak up. i guess the stock thermo is fine I .
My ps lines are also leaking and i have replacements siting in the box but perhaps this is the time I should just upgrade to a new core and stainless AN lines.
what size would you use for the ps cooler? 10an seems way bigger then necessary. perhaps 8an is appropriate or even 6?
what size an lines are you running? are those 10an? how many feet should I order? I could measure but if someone knows speak up. i guess the stock thermo is fine I .
My ps lines are also leaking and i have replacements siting in the box but perhaps this is the time I should just upgrade to a new core and stainless AN lines.
what size would you use for the ps cooler? 10an seems way bigger then necessary. perhaps 8an is appropriate or even 6?
#28
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I like how the cooler is mounted on the driver side but i'm not psyched about the super long lines i guess it is better then a cooler that does not fit properly in the front mount pass side set up I have now.
what size an lines are you running? are those 10an? how many feet should I order? I could measure but if someone knows speak up. i guess the stock thermo is fine I .
My ps lines are also leaking and i have replacements siting in the box but perhaps this is the time I should just upgrade to a new core and stainless AN lines.
what size would you use for the ps cooler? 10an seems way bigger then necessary. perhaps 8an is appropriate or even 6?
what size an lines are you running? are those 10an? how many feet should I order? I could measure but if someone knows speak up. i guess the stock thermo is fine I .
My ps lines are also leaking and i have replacements siting in the box but perhaps this is the time I should just upgrade to a new core and stainless AN lines.
what size would you use for the ps cooler? 10an seems way bigger then necessary. perhaps 8an is appropriate or even 6?
Converting the p/s lines to stainless and AN fittings is not that easy. I did it but I can remember what size the fittings are. Unless you change out the cooler, you have some barbed fittings to deal with. If you go after market on the cooler and the p/s fluid bottle, you can go all AN fittings and -6 lines.
#29
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I like how the cooler is mounted on the driver side but i'm not psyched about the super long lines i guess it is better then a cooler that does not fit properly in the front mount pass side set up I have now.
what size an lines are you running? are those 10an? how many feet should I order? I could measure but if someone knows speak up. i guess the stock thermo is fine I .
My ps lines are also leaking and i have replacements siting in the box but perhaps this is the time I should just upgrade to a new core and stainless AN lines.
what size would you use for the ps cooler? 10an seems way bigger then necessary. perhaps 8an is appropriate or even 6?
what size an lines are you running? are those 10an? how many feet should I order? I could measure but if someone knows speak up. i guess the stock thermo is fine I .
My ps lines are also leaking and i have replacements siting in the box but perhaps this is the time I should just upgrade to a new core and stainless AN lines.
what size would you use for the ps cooler? 10an seems way bigger then necessary. perhaps 8an is appropriate or even 6?
-8 are massive for ps lines, -6 should be optimal. just grab your caliper and measure
#30
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well if i decide to do a ps cooler I would definitely change all the lines and the reservoir like you suggested. i would probably leave the high pressure line alone for the short term just because it is the only line not leaking now.
my question for the ps system is how do you know you NEED additional cooling? what kind of drive ability issues show up if the system is overheating?
it sounds like most people dont really do this very often. I have new stock lines (3)and reservoir that cost about $340 so for that price I could go aftermarket no prob. considering the stock system is not the most durable a little leak prone pernhaps i should just do it right versus taking the time to install stock parts
what do you guys think?
my question for the ps system is how do you know you NEED additional cooling? what kind of drive ability issues show up if the system is overheating?
it sounds like most people dont really do this very often. I have new stock lines (3)and reservoir that cost about $340 so for that price I could go aftermarket no prob. considering the stock system is not the most durable a little leak prone pernhaps i should just do it right versus taking the time to install stock parts
what do you guys think?