RajDatta

I would hook up an external guage to see how things are before I start tearing anything. Chances are, you are not getting the true reading.
Next would be OPRV. Baum Tools sells the alignment tool and its under $25 and well worth its price in weight. Try another OPRV.
Raj

Ski

in the 86 block, you have a chromed sleeve which the OPRV goes into. This is NOT in the later blocks, hence the style change, and the seating area is different also.

turboted

Ahhh....yes, duh. No, I did not replace this sleeve. I re-installed it with new seals.

333pg333

1 bar is something I never see. I start at 5 and even when hot get down to 2.5-3 min and that's in Australia. Being at 1 bar regularly doesn't sound right. What oils/visc are you using?

xsboost90

My mechanic shimmed the new valve and installed it for me

never heard of that. The n/a's needed the internal cooler shimmed. Not sure i would shim the OPRV since that would just lower operating pressure. Try pulling the shims out. Not sure of any shims that would go inside the cooler just a jumper w/ seals on each side.

special tool

Yeah, I missed that too.
WTF?

Is he a 240z mechanic, or something?

So he shimmed a relief valve for a pump that runs 1:1 with the crank??
Dumbass alert, dude.

Chris White

get the 1 pc. OPV. The 3 pcs system does not like being taken apart. The piston seats in the sleeve in one orentation and the chances of you getting in back in that same position are pretty small. Sometimes it snot a problem, sometimes it is.

Get the one peice valve and you will be happy....

Tom M'Guinn

[QUOTE=turboted;4913000]
Tom - if you have a 1-pc that fits an '86 that you are willing to loan me, I'll make it worth your while. This seems like this is the best place to start based on the advice I have received so far.

QUOTE]

I'll check on Friday if no one comes up with a loaner in the meantime. If you are using a 3 piece unit now, though, it wouldn't be a waste of time or money to just buy a new 1 piece unit.

turboted

Thanks, all. I have a loaner 1-pc valve on the way now to test with (graciously offered up by a fellow lister). I'm hopeful this will solve the problem. I'll let you all know next week, as I'm in the freezing cold midwest for the rest of my holiday break. If its going to be this cold, I wish it would at least snow a little.

black944 turbo

Mine is with others 5 bar until hot and then 3 bar when hot at idle, 1 bar seems awfly low, sorry no other advise. Good luck.

Bri Bro

Did you get the aligment tool? It makes sure that the cover is aligned correctly before you put in the OPV. Without it, you run the risk of it sticking.

turboted

A quick update...and a few more questions.

I installed a 1-pc OPRV, which did not help. There was NO change to my oil pressure with a 1-pc valve. So, I removed the front belt covers to double check for leaks, and found a little oil seepage on the inside of the rear cover (see pic). The belts appear nice and dry...and my garage floor is dry, too (no leaking on the ground or through the belt covers). Next, I drove the car for about 15 miles with the front covers off (hoping to determine where the oil was seeping from). When I got back home, I noticed oil splatter on the underside of my hood where it sits above the belts (another pic below). So, oil is clearly making its way to belts or drive gear and getting flung up onto the hood.

Here's my first question - is this most likely indicative of a bad front main seal, a leaking sleeve-to-crank seal, or (possibly) a bad seal between the oil pump and the block? All were replaced during my rebuild. I am also willing to admit that I MAY have installed the tappered washer behind the crank pulley backwards on accident.

Second question - since I expect everything to be lightly coated in oil when I remove the crank pulley, how will I be able to determine (conclusively) where the oil is really leaking from? Should I play it safe and just replace both the front main and sleeve-to-crank seals? How can I rule out any sealing problems between the pump and the block surfaces?

Oh...and for those who questioned the shim on the 3-pc valve, it should have helped to increase oil pressure at idle. The shim, essentially a washer placed between the spring and the plunger, effectively increased the pressure of the spring and therefore increased the oil pressure required to open the valve.

TIA for any additional advice.

ibkevin

15 miles in 14.5psi oil press, that takes nuts.

Whats torque on the pump to crank bolt?

turboted

Don't give me too much credit...I'm ballsy, but.... Oil pressure is fine once the motor starts spinning...at 2k rpm my oil pressure is 2-3 bar and rises appropriately with engine speed. It's only low at idle. Crank pulley bolt IS tight...at least 180 ft/lbs, checked it several times.

KuHL 951

Did you check that tapered washer yet? I remember someone here had a problem after rebuild with residual oil wicking between the girdle and block when he used the Loctite 574 making it not cure correctly and cause a small leak. I'm not sure but if it was an oil pump sealing issue I don't think your problem would be constant and not be at idle only. When you aligned the oil cooler housing did you use the tool or at least the 1-piece OPRV I sent as a guide before final tightening the cover?