Spare 2.5 L Engine - To stroke or not?
#1
Racer
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Spare 2.5 L Engine - To stroke or not?
I have a spare 2.5L 951 enging with a brandnew Turbonetics Stage III Dry turbo. I'm thinking about tearing it down and starting fresh to build a somthing really reliable and strong. Thinking about stuff like: stroking it, knife edge crank, piston coatings, ect.
I've searched a bit and can't really find a clear discription of what's involved with building a stroker and what the power characterists are compared to a built non-stroked 2.5.
Any thoughs or idea would be great.
thanks
d
I've searched a bit and can't really find a clear discription of what's involved with building a stroker and what the power characterists are compared to a built non-stroked 2.5.
Any thoughs or idea would be great.
thanks
d
#2
Rennlist Member
Talk to David Floyd on here.
Is there anything wrong with the current or spare motor though? When you say you want something reliable and strong, not much can compete with a perfect stock motor with those in mind. Of course you can do all the mods and when done properly will be both reliable and more powerful. The operative being when done 'properly'. This often costs more than you're prepared for.
Is there anything wrong with the current or spare motor though? When you say you want something reliable and strong, not much can compete with a perfect stock motor with those in mind. Of course you can do all the mods and when done properly will be both reliable and more powerful. The operative being when done 'properly'. This often costs more than you're prepared for.
#4
I did a 2.8, if I had it to do over I wouldn't have. Mine has a 968 crank, stock length Carillo rods and non-stock pistons to provide the needed offset. The moderate increase in displacement gives a corresponding modest change in power but really limits your options for inexpensive and proven chip/maf sets.
#5
RL Community Team
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I did a 2.8, if I had it to do over I wouldn't have. Mine has a 968 crank, stock length Carillo rods and non-stock pistons to provide the needed offset. The moderate increase in displacement gives a corresponding modest change in power but really limits your options for inexpensive and proven chip/maf sets.
#6
Burning Brakes
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If you are seriosu about stroking it you won't get a cheaper way than this!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PORSC...spagenameZWDVW
This kit enables you to use stock pistons too!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PORSC...spagenameZWDVW
This kit enables you to use stock pistons too!
#7
Not a big seat of the pants feel from the displacement change.
Cranking the boost from 13 up to 20, now THAT's a big seat of the pants change. At 20psi on street tires I can get wheel spin in 3rd gear at 5000 rpm :O The o-ringed head and Carillo rods to survive the boost were money well spent.
For me a well tuned 2.5 is better bang for the buck, if I had more money to spend I'd probably feel differently.
Cranking the boost from 13 up to 20, now THAT's a big seat of the pants change. At 20psi on street tires I can get wheel spin in 3rd gear at 5000 rpm :O The o-ringed head and Carillo rods to survive the boost were money well spent.
For me a well tuned 2.5 is better bang for the buck, if I had more money to spend I'd probably feel differently.
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#8
Racer
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No there is Nothing wrong with the stock motor, but it would need to ccome apart and be cleaned up. I'm pretty sure some copper wire cuttings fell into the intake ports. I was just wondering what radical stuff I could do to this motor over the next 1.5 years that would make it really reliable and really bad *** & then drop it in down the road.
I was thinking that a 12+% displacement increase along with some lighened stuff (crank & flywheel) would make it pretty hot. But I really don't want to build a finicky race engine. But more of a bullett proof 400 hp motor capable of reliable daily driving.
Thanks for all input.
d
I was thinking that a 12+% displacement increase along with some lighened stuff (crank & flywheel) would make it pretty hot. But I really don't want to build a finicky race engine. But more of a bullett proof 400 hp motor capable of reliable daily driving.
Thanks for all input.
d
#9
compression and maybe leak down to see were your at ?
get all the good bolt ons as there more cost effective than engine internals .
then if you still want to play motors start at the top with an NA cam cheap and effective then freshen the head up then look at the block
get all the good bolt ons as there more cost effective than engine internals .
then if you still want to play motors start at the top with an NA cam cheap and effective then freshen the head up then look at the block