What are the signs of a clutch on its way out?
#1
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Just wondering. I experienced a little slipping a while ago. My problem that I have posted about a few times is that when I let the clutch out and give the car throttle after coasting in gear or changing gears the the car will make no power and I mean NOTHING it simply will not accelerate at all no matter how much I give it throttle. The RPM will not move. Pushing the clutch in and releasing it normally once sometimes twice and its back to normal. Generally only does it after I've been on boost (only 10-11psi) even under a light load.
I'm stumped. I'm really considering getting a wideband gauge to get an idea of what exactly is happening. I've been told by two shops that my clutch is on its last leg but I've only experienced slippage once and it was partially my fault. Either way I see a large bill in the future.
To top it off my hatch won't open/close without me pushing the lever from inside the trunk.
Maybe be a low boost drive through the hills will calm me down
I'm stumped. I'm really considering getting a wideband gauge to get an idea of what exactly is happening. I've been told by two shops that my clutch is on its last leg but I've only experienced slippage once and it was partially my fault. Either way I see a large bill in the future.
To top it off my hatch won't open/close without me pushing the lever from inside the trunk.
Maybe be a low boost drive through the hills will calm me down
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#2
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when clutch is engaged in 3rd 4th or 5th, floor it and see of the RPMS jump on the way up, (steady up to like 4600 and then jump from 4600 to say 5600) this is the clutch plate and flywheel slipping. there is also a procedure on clarks garage to see how much is left on your disk
#3
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Try adjusting the position of your hatch latches and see if that fixes that problem. Loosen the latches, then shut the hatch with you laying in the back of the car. With the latches loose they will correctly line up with the hatch pins, upon which you can then tighten them back down.
#4
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Miles on this clutch? Stock or aftermarket?
It sounds to me like it's starting to slip when the friction is at a peak. If you conclude it is in fact the clutch, don't drive the car much longer before doing a clutch job or your flywheel will be scratched beyond repair and you'll have to buy a new one.
It sounds to me like it's starting to slip when the friction is at a peak. If you conclude it is in fact the clutch, don't drive the car much longer before doing a clutch job or your flywheel will be scratched beyond repair and you'll have to buy a new one.
#5
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when my clutch went, the car would drive normal until under a load of boost. I actually got a ticket on the highway because i was trying to determine if it was slipping. It would start gaining speed and rpm, then the speed would stop increasing but the rpm would not. Bad feeling.
#7
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I'm pretty sure its a stock clutch, car now has 120k miles.
Strange, I just don't think its engine related. I drive the car again today. It only does it sometimes but its been happening more often.
Also, as for the flywheel it can't crap out as much as it wants cause I'd have it replaced with the clutch. Either way the clutch can't be done for a few months.
Strange, I just don't think its engine related. I drive the car again today. It only does it sometimes but its been happening more often.
Also, as for the flywheel it can't crap out as much as it wants cause I'd have it replaced with the clutch. Either way the clutch can't be done for a few months.
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#8
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Try adjusting the position of your hatch latches and see if that fixes that problem. Loosen the latches, then shut the hatch with you laying in the back of the car. With the latches loose they will correctly line up with the hatch pins, upon which you can then tighten them back down.
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I'll call parts heaven later today
#10
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^^^ I hate to endorse bad news but this guy is right. The problem you described is not your clutch.. well not only your clutch anyways.. the clutch will not affect rpm.. just the rpm transfer into go go juice. By the way when my clutch went out it was a grinding.. so happened one of the two CAST prongs on the fork cracked and bent back so it was only engaging one side and the other.. well you get the point.. no doubt my PO hammered the car like a fool.
#13
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if its is just after a bit of gusto it sounds heat related or a connection disrupted my engine movement .
check how far you can move the engine . check everything you can get to for heat damage.
And get on clarks garage or search here and learn how to read fault codes .
I remember my car would have complete shut downs like that from bad TPS
mine would have Throttle closed closed signal that would cut injectors above 2000rpm
check how far you can move the engine . check everything you can get to for heat damage.
And get on clarks garage or search here and learn how to read fault codes .
I remember my car would have complete shut downs like that from bad TPS
mine would have Throttle closed closed signal that would cut injectors above 2000rpm
#15
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Try adjusting the position of your hatch latches and see if that fixes that problem. Loosen the latches, then shut the hatch with you laying in the back of the car. With the latches loose they will correctly line up with the hatch pins, upon which you can then tighten them back down.
My hatch opened while I was driving yesterday. Scary stuff, but luckily I was only going 30mph