ausgeflippt951

Hi, so I'm trying to diagnose two problems. The first deals with intermittent stalling; the second, low boost.

Anyway, I took out my KLR for the first time and found that it was from an '88 Turbo (not sure if S or not) -- my car is an '86.



So I took it apart and I found what looks like the copper separating from the board:








Do I need a new KLR? Could this be what is contributing to my low boost? And BTW, I have literally done everything I could both think of and find here on the List and nothing's worked. I'm constantly at 1.25 bar, and have been so since I bought the car back in Feb.



One more question: What's this plug? It's in the DME wiring harness.





Thanks guys!

sawood12

I think the brown wires that are terminated with a plug is not necessarily a problem. When I installed my chip kit I had to plug a jumper that basically connected those two wires together so in stock form I think the plug shouldn't be connected to anything. Can't remember the details - I would have to refer back to the kit instructions.

Keithr726

I have one for sale if you need it, PM me. Its an 86 model with stock chip. Open up the KLR and expose the chips so we can identify it. There is a write-up on clarks

I have the brown wire in my wiring harness too. It must be for a option accessory or some sort of a test port.

944CS

I would check for blink codes if I were you

ausgeflippt951

Thanks guys. I already have checked for blink codes a while back, but I haven't done so lately. I'll do it if I can get my car started.

FWIW, here's a list of stuff I've done to try to get my boost back to par (in chronological order):

--new BOV
--checked intercooler boots and whatnot for cracks/leaks; all fine
--crimped line btwn CV and WG to test for unlimited boost; boost topped out at 1.85
--replaced CV
--blink tested as per LR's instructions -- saw nothing therefore no codes
--shimmed WG 5mm to add preload to diaphragm -- increased turbo spool and raised abs. pressure from 1.2 to 1.25 bar.
--new vac lines, hoses
--venturi delete


I think that's all I've done but I honestly can't think of anything else besides replacing the KLR. Is there a way to reflash it?

ausgeflippt951

I opened up the two boards and the chips had no markings on them whatsoever...just black. What should they say?

If need be, I'll pull the damn thing out of the car again.

Thanks Keith, PM sent.

Keithr726

Open both the DME and KLR to confirm that both chips are the same maker. If they are it is probably the fact that the KLR you're using uses a 28pin(88-89) chip when it should be a 24pin chip (86-87).

ausgeflippt951

I thought the 28-pin chips were for the Turbo S's only? It makes sense that the "lowlier" version is also a 28 pin.

I'll check.

But first, lunch

bunch

Klr are all years the same

ausgeflippt951

Ok I haven't gotten a chance to look at the chips because I only had time to take the DME/KLR outta the car and take pictures of it.

It looks to me like both are 24-pin units:

DME:



KLR:




Looks to me like exactly the same chip set. But to the original question: does my KLR look like it needs replacing?

ausgeflippt951

FWIW my DME casing has "EBAY" written on it in sharpie so I wouldn't doubt that both the DME and KLR were replaced at the same time at some point in the previous ownership.

Aside from wanting to know if my KLR looks a little sick, is there anything else i could do to try to bring my boost back up to 1.7-8 bar absolute?

hp18racer

The plug is the 'California Emissions Selection' plug. Wire in for California, wire out for rest of the US. I don't believe that in 86 the wire in our out made any difference in operation. With an aftermarket chip set it could be used to switch maps.

The socketed chip with the sticker on it (1267355138) is at least labeled with a porsche factory number for their KLR chip.

Before I started working on electronics, I'd disconnect the waste gate from the cycling valve and see (carefully) if the car can make boost. Confirm the problem isn't an exhaust or boost leak.

I'd suggest you take some flux remover and a toothbrush and clean the back of the KLR. If you have a friend with a working car, swap boxes for a test run. If not, I'd look for another KLR.

ausgeflippt951

Thanks for the help.

Unfortunately I can't start my car anymore. After replacing the vac lines and whatnot, it fired right up and then ran fantastically for about an hour. And then it died twice, but both times I was able to start it up again. Then it died a third time and I had to get it towed. After replacing the fuel filter I was able to get it started again and idled fine for a while. It died after pulling out of my driveway and I haven't been able to start it since.




Could a KLR cause a no-start/dying issue? Like I said, at first it would just killl the engine, but now it just won't start, period. My KLR is in pretty bad shape...

I'm a big proponent of Occam's Razor, so it would be neat if both my low boost and no start issue are related.


Does anybody in southern AZ happen to have a spare 951 DME I could try out?

hp18racer

A bad KLR could definitely keep you from getting spark.
If the DME is totally dead, tachometer won't bounce when you crank the starter.

ausgeflippt951

Hmmm...my tach bounces, I get oil pressure if I crank for ~12 seconds, and I am getting spark to cylinders 1 and 4. I did not check 2 and 3 because I didn't have enough time. I guess I could check 2 and 3 tomorrow...

Might it still be the KLR?


FWIW, I checked the wiring harness for the injectors and w/ the ignition on I read 12V for the right terminal to ground and 10V for the left to ground.

Injector resistance is 5 ohms for each injector.