Keithr726

Test the damper buy pulling the vac line to it and smelling for gas. Check the FPR with a pressure checker.

What RPM did the backfire happen?

hp18racer

Tach going to zero when the engine is clearly turning points very strongly at the speed sensor or DME going out. Got a friend with an o-scope to look at the signal from your speed sensor?

ausgeflippt951

Hmmm yeah that's gonna be a bit difficult. I might, but it'll be a bit difficult. At this point, I think I'm going to have my local mechanic (the only guy in Tucson who knows 944s) throw in a good ref/speed sensor to check it that way while he retensions my T-belt (it was replaced not too long ago and it's that time again).

I also was reading that the fitting on the end of the fuel rail requires a compression fitting or something inordinately unnecessary? I don't have a fuel rail gauge, and I was assuming the fitting was a simple 17mm NPT or AN or something...but now I'm not so sure. While the car is at the mech's I figured I'd have him do the fuel rail check...but damn that'll be a dent on my pride...



FWIW I checked the damper/FPR for the smell of gas and I found nothing, despite them looking like the originals from 1986.




I also clamped my WG-CV line and I got stupid fast amounts of boost and it was all I could do to keep the car under 1.8-2 bar...it seems that the vac line replacing helped something.

I was unable to do a blink test because I couldn't find my blink tester. I didn't want to go make another. I did, however, find it this morning so this evening I'll be testing.


In an effort to see if I could get boost constantly, I installed my LBE and set it to a max of 1.75 bar. I initially set it a little too high and I got 1.9 bar in second. I quickly changed it and now in second and higher gears I hit 1.75 bar and in first I only hit 1.65.


The car is now quite quick but this is not how I wanted to arrive at my ultimate boost solution...






wow thanks for reading!

ausgeflippt951

I blink tested the sucker today and got no blinks at all. If my KLR/harness were truly bad, i should be getting a code, correct?


Also, is it an OK idea to run w/ the LBE while experiencing low boost to begin with? Will this cause a lean condition in the upper RPM?


Edit: If i truly am running in fail-safe mode, timing is retarded by the computer by 6 degrees, correct? I forget the exact number...might I be able to help anything by toying with my FQS on the DME?

ausgeflippt951

Bump

944CS

don't touch the FQS on the DME....what is the LBE set at? you could have it set too high, which is why you're in limp mode, if in fact you are in limp mode...take it off, put the car back to stock and see what happens...note, it wil take a minute or 2 for the car to go back to normal

ausgeflippt951

The LBE's set at a supposed 10-11 psi (it maxes out on the stock gauge at 1.75 bar).

I actually was experiencing a low boost issue (1.3 bar) so I threw the LBE on there to see what happens.

As stated earler, I am capable of making full boost (as demonstrated by the CV-WG clamping and LBE install) and I'm throwing no blink codes.


The car now runs like a bat outta hell from 3500 till redline, but I jsut wanted to make sure this wouldn't cause me to experience a lean condition up top due to the low boost?



What I've done to alleviate the boost issue:

--New vac lines
--New hoses/venturi delete
--shimmed WG
--new BOV
--resoldered DME/KLR; KLR looks really ugly but there wasn't really anything to resolder (see pics on first post)
--blink tested: nada
--WG-CV line clamped; experienced fully unrestricted boost like i should be


I should note that initially I was getting only 1.2 bar boost but after shimming the WG 5mm it increased ever-so-slightly to 1.3.

mfloren

this guy is superb

mfloren

soxnail

Oddjob

The KLR can fail completely, so that no blink codes are generated what so ever, and the car will run in limp mode. I have had it happen.

Pull the TPS connector with the car running, and see if you get the correct blink-fault code for a TPS failure. If you dont get a blink code, then likely that you have a bad KLR.

Keithr726

I still have one

ausgeflippt951

Thanks! I'll be checking the codes when I get home. Thanks for waiting, Keith...things have just been verrry busy here.