Keithr726

There is a guy called soxnail on the pelican parts forum that does DME/KLR repair.

ausgeflippt951

I don't think my DME is culprit tho...I must've stared at that sucker for half an hour, searching w/ a magnifying glass for any crack/imperfection in the solder joints and i found nothing. The solder's a bit dull, but that's it. All of the resistors and whatnot appeared (visually) to be intact as well.

ausgeflippt951

Bump

Keithr726

Sounds right for the injectors, I believe 5.5ohms is right but I think its fine.

hp18racer

If you have spark, the klr seems very unlikely. A lot of stuff in DME and KLR both have to be working to fire the plugs, it's the same circuit that fires all 4 plugs. It still could be a bad DME but not very likely.
Have you confirmed you get fuel? Pull a plug after cranking, how does it look, fresh gas? Possibly weak coil, enough to see the spark but not enough to start?

Geneqco

If you suspect the KLR why not just bridge it out and see if the car starts - it is a diagnostic mode, so you shouldn't really drive it like that and it won't make much boost... but at least you'll know if a bad KLR is stopping your car starting.

Page 38-42 PWM
The engine can be operated without the K/CP control unit in an emergency or for trouble shooting purposes.
In order to do this, the ignition signal must be bridged at the K/CP control unit plug terminals 9 and 16 with an auxiliary wire.
The engine will then run with reduced power.

ausgeflippt951

I actually got the car running two days ago for no apparent reason. I had been running many diagnostics and as a result, I cleaned everything, but the car started right up. I drove it for two days w/ no problems.

And then it wouldn't start last night.

Long story short, I was able to get it going using some starting fluid. The car will hiccup when the oil isn't up to operating temp; after about 20-25 min of driving, the hiccupping seems to go away.

Bad dampener/regulator, perhaps?

Thanks guys!



And FWIW, I am still getting only 1.25 bar of boost. Tomorrow I plan on clamping the WG-CV line to check for max boost; I'll let y'all know what the outcome is.

ausgeflippt951

^Bump^

Could a bad dampener/regulator be the reason for the hiccupping? I can find no correlation between hiccups and bumps in the road, speed, engine RPM, throttle position, constant vs. increasing throttle, etc. It seems completely independent of everything on the goddamn car.

Bad speed sensor, perhaps? When the car hiccups, the tach immediately goes to 0 RPM, which could be indicative of a partially faulty speed/ref sensor...



And in regards to boost, I was noticing that I didn't even check the KLR harness underneath the intake manifold when I was replacing the vac lines. Unfortunately, I have no real idea how a totally stock 951 is supposed to drive, i.e. I don't know if the timing is permanently retarded (causing the fail-safe mode that the KLR reverts to).

Keithr726

Could be a lot of things still. Did you ever get to clamp the WG line? I wonder if your AFM is wigging out. These type of problems are so hard to diagnose. Type an get her started so that she will idle and try the blink code test again so we can cut out some of the causes. Also tell us how the car acts when it hiccups (shakes? Oil pressure?)

Spend some time going through the shop manual at clarks-garage.com if you already haven't.

ausgeflippt951

Thank for the advice. Unfortunately today I'd been a bit more busy than I had anticipated. Tomorrow I plan on:

clamping the WG-CV line
blink testing
installing my LBE to see if I can get a boost increase if the previous two check out OK


I've been searching nonstop on Clarks and haven't quite found what I've been looking for. I ran diagnostics on the AFM (even going so far as to take off the cover and testing it there) and everything checked out perfectly.

When the car hiccups, it recovers just as suddenly as it came in the first place. The whole thing is only a fraction of a second. The tach will go to null, RPM will drop slightly (due to engine shutting off for a blink of an eye). As far as I can see, oil pressure will not drop instantly like the tach (indicative of no signal). Unfortunately i can't be 100% sure due to it always catching me off-guard. i have to drive the damn thing in the morning so I'll be on the lookout.

Tomorrow I will also take the vac lines off of the dampener/reg to see if fuel comes out. This would be indicative of a bad FPR right?


Thanks for all the help with this. I truly appreciate it

The DareDevil

When you clamped the WG line, boost should have peaked well beyond the 2bar that the dash gauge indicates.

Exhaust obstruction? Intake obstruction? Turbo malfunction?

wi54545

Have you checked the AFM electrics?? That may be your problem, with the start and boost. There is a writeup on clarks garage regarding this.

ausgeflippt951

Yes checked the AFM. In fact, every piece of electronics I've done diagnostics on has checked out just fine.

After classes today I'll do the aforementioned checks.

Keithr726

Do not let the boost go above 1.8bar on the factory gauge!! Its very dangerous on a stock car.

ausgeflippt951

Yup absolutely. However, last time I did the clamp, the car refused to go any higher than 1.85 bar or so. Theoretically it should easily hit 2 bar, correct? I'll post an update tonight.


Also, I'm beginning to seriously think it's my FPR or damper. Today as I was driving to the uni the car did its occasional hiccupping, but on one occasion the car backfired like crazy -- about four of them in very quick succession, followed by a huge plume of black smoke. I was just cruising at 40mph at the time. After the backfire, the car ran quite normal, as if nothing had ever happened. Until the next time it hiccupped, that is.

How can I differentiate between a bad damper vs a bad FPR?