951 Project by DanG = 2.7L MID + Megasquirt + Garrett GT-R
#46
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Right you are, nothing better than wasted spark off the stock sensors, my mistake. We'd need to have at least a single cam-sync pulse to be able to do sequential COP control. Wasted spark (with COP or plain EDIS-4 style coils) is probably more than adequate though, so no real need to make it more complicated with an extra cam sensor. (assuming we could build a stock sensor conversion box cheaply)
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4-1 trigger? I wouldn’t like that for a performance engine, too slow in tracking the rate of change.
Here is so fun math (with round numbers) –
A decent engine can increase revs at lets say 6k rpm / second (from 1k to 7k)
That’s an average speed of 3500rpm or 58 revs per second.
If we assume a linear rate of change that means that the rpms will go up by 102 rpm per revolution.
So if the engine is at 2000 rpm at the start of a revolution it will be at 2102 at the end – a change of 5% (round numbers). If the system is only calculating the position once a revolution then you can have as much as a 5% error in timing, not a real problem for injection but really crappy for spark timing.
Moral of the story – make sure you know how the trigger system actually calculates the crank position, some have the possibility of quite a bit of error and more teeth (up to a point) are better.
Chris White
Here is so fun math (with round numbers) –
A decent engine can increase revs at lets say 6k rpm / second (from 1k to 7k)
That’s an average speed of 3500rpm or 58 revs per second.
If we assume a linear rate of change that means that the rpms will go up by 102 rpm per revolution.
So if the engine is at 2000 rpm at the start of a revolution it will be at 2102 at the end – a change of 5% (round numbers). If the system is only calculating the position once a revolution then you can have as much as a 5% error in timing, not a real problem for injection but really crappy for spark timing.
Moral of the story – make sure you know how the trigger system actually calculates the crank position, some have the possibility of quite a bit of error and more teeth (up to a point) are better.
Chris White
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Originally Posted by DanG
You think that might be the same thing Rage was talking about here???
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...96#post2038296Without a doubt, I'd pay $100 to be able to use the stock sensors to generate a useable trigger input for individual COP control, and I guess I wouldn't complain if it could only do wasted spark. I'd also be more than happy to build my own from someone's component list and schematic for $12 or whatever.
If this could be done that cheaply, there would be a lot of happy stand-alone 944 owners.
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...96#post2038296Without a doubt, I'd pay $100 to be able to use the stock sensors to generate a useable trigger input for individual COP control, and I guess I wouldn't complain if it could only do wasted spark. I'd also be more than happy to build my own from someone's component list and schematic for $12 or whatever.
If this could be done that cheaply, there would be a lot of happy stand-alone 944 owners.
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It would most likely be quite a cheap solution. More than $12, once you factor in the stuff to program the PIC and all that, but still quite cheap.
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Originally Posted by Fen
I don't understand how it can use the stock sensors - there is no stock cam sensor.
http://www.msefi.com/viewtopic.php?t...r=asc&start=15
Gist is that the -extra code has a bunch of features over the other stuff, including a second wheel/trigger option.
http://megasquirt.sourceforge.net/extra/
Which should in theory, when combined with the PIC setup for using the stock sensors, give us wasted spark or even Coil on Plug. The cam trigger doesnt have to be a super fancy one from what ive been reading...
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Originally Posted by DanG
Right you are, nothing better than wasted spark off the stock sensors, my mistake. We'd need to have at least a single cam-sync pulse to be able to do sequential COP control. Wasted spark (with COP or plain EDIS-4 style coils) is probably more than adequate though, so no real need to make it more complicated with an extra cam sensor. (assuming we could build a stock sensor conversion box cheaply)
Full sequential sounds neat but it doesn’t really gain you anything at high duty cycles. On a Tec3 you do get the ability to trim cylinders individually (not a big deal)
Chris White
#51
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Originally Posted by Chris White
Moral of the story – make sure you know how the trigger system actually calculates the crank position, some have the possibility of quite a bit of error and more teeth (up to a point) are better.
http://megasquirt.sourceforge.net/ex...tup-wheel.html
I still have to read more on the subject, but it seems like the MS has the ability to take in more than just 4-1 data crank trigger data. What I probably meant to say is that it could RUN on 4-1, but it isn't ideal, as Chris explained. If I was going through the effort of mounting a trigger wheel, it would likely either be 36-1 or 60-2.
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Originally Posted by Chris White
Only one reason to go full sequential – idle quality with injectors 83lb or larger.
Full sequential sounds neat but it doesn’t really gain you anything at high duty cycles. On a Tec3 you do get the ability to trim cylinders individually (not a big deal)
Full sequential sounds neat but it doesn’t really gain you anything at high duty cycles. On a Tec3 you do get the ability to trim cylinders individually (not a big deal)
I'll probably be doing alternating batch injection for fuel, 1 or 2 squirts per revolution (as many as I can get away with on the minimum injector open time for my injectors).
Lots of math and figuring left.
#53
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Originally Posted by theedge
Weve been talking about it on and off in this thread
http://www.msefi.com/viewtopic.php?t...r=asc&start=15
Gist is that the -extra code has a bunch of features over the other stuff, including a second wheel/trigger option.
http://megasquirt.sourceforge.net/extra/
Which should in theory, when combined with the PIC setup for using the stock sensors, give us wasted spark or even Coil on Plug. The cam trigger doesnt have to be a super fancy one from what ive been reading...
http://www.msefi.com/viewtopic.php?t...r=asc&start=15
Gist is that the -extra code has a bunch of features over the other stuff, including a second wheel/trigger option.
http://megasquirt.sourceforge.net/extra/
Which should in theory, when combined with the PIC setup for using the stock sensors, give us wasted spark or even Coil on Plug. The cam trigger doesnt have to be a super fancy one from what ive been reading...
I hadn't thought (nor read) about the benefit of more triggers in relation to changing engine speed which is something I need to take on board. I would say that in the calculation about increasing engine speed it won't increase nearly that fast when the car is in gear, though.
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I noticed the license plate frame..Guy's Independent Porsche Care...he is my local mechanic in San Luis Obispo, CA where did the car come from?
I used to own an 86' 951 that I sold a few years ago?
I used to own an 86' 951 that I sold a few years ago?
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Here's what I dug up on the previous owners from the car's paperwork and receipts...
If you're one of those two guys, or sold it to/bought it from one of them, or know them or the car at all, let me know!
Most recent PO (that drove it more than 1000 miles) lived in Galt, CA from 2003-2004 at a minimum, worked at Miracle Auto Painting in Stockton, CA, and was named Nathanel Lyons. I'm going to start by just calling up the paint shop and seeing if he still works there. BTW, the fact that he worked at a paint shop might have something to do with the $4k paint job receipt. I'm guessing thats an "estimate" of what it was worth, not what the guy actually paid. This was the guy that seemed to fit most of the speed parts like the new turbo in June of 2003. I'm guessing that claimed 290 rwhp dyno run was done after the K27/8 was installed, I'd love to somehow get a copy of that.
The P-PO lived or worked in Mesa AZ up to at least the end of 2002, when he sold it to the guy above. He worked at a place called Arizona Auto Trim, and was named Heath Elmer. He was the guy that took the car to Powerdyne (still has a windshield banner from there) and had Chris Cervelli work on it. He was also the guy that bought those sweet wheels, and I'm guessing fit the big brakes around the same time (cause I don't think they'd fit under anything but 17"s).
The P-PO lived or worked in Mesa AZ up to at least the end of 2002, when he sold it to the guy above. He worked at a place called Arizona Auto Trim, and was named Heath Elmer. He was the guy that took the car to Powerdyne (still has a windshield banner from there) and had Chris Cervelli work on it. He was also the guy that bought those sweet wheels, and I'm guessing fit the big brakes around the same time (cause I don't think they'd fit under anything but 17"s).
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I am neither one of those guys. But it is interesting about the license plate frame because that is a very small porsche shop and the town I live in is very small I will try and dig up the old VIN and I will PM it to you.
I think I sold it in '00 if I remember correctly.
I think I sold it in '00 if I remember correctly.
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Originally Posted by Fen
I hadn't thought (nor read) about the benefit of more triggers in relation to changing engine speed which is something I need to take on board. I would say that in the calculation about increasing engine speed it won't increase nearly that fast when the car is in gear, though.
If you want to run with out a safety margin you better be right on with the timing, much more accuracy is required than the A/F settings!
Chris White
#59
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Originally Posted by DanG
Fen, sounds like you've got things working pretty well. Can you post up some pictures of your trigger mounting solution?
![](http://images.fotopic.net/yb19cx.jpg)
#60
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Fen, thanks for the photo, definitely post up some more once you have them. I see the black sensor (I think) poking out there, the trigger wheel is between the pulleys and the balance cog, right? Is it just that single black tab at about 2 o'clock on the pulley? 1 toothed wheel?
I'm heading back to PA now. I'm going to go over the whole car with a fine tooth comb. Full wax and polish job. I'm bringing the valve cover and intake manifold back with me to get either polished, powder coated, or just a good clean and paint job.
I'm not sure how I want to do the underhood treatment. Black on black with black and black, black and red, black and yellow, black and blue? Polished bits, NO polished bits? I dunno yet. I'll have to decide once everything is clean. My brakes are currently yellow, but the fronts are "Big Reds" so I might revert back to that. But you see so many Black/red cars out there, so I don't know. Black and blue (and polished aluminum) under the hood can look pretty good, I might try that...
![](http://evilallianceracing.com/ipw-web/gallery/albums/eVil951/blackandblue.jpg)
(file photo)
Shipping the block up to 944 Enhancement on Friday. 2.7 liters, here I come!
I'm heading back to PA now. I'm going to go over the whole car with a fine tooth comb. Full wax and polish job. I'm bringing the valve cover and intake manifold back with me to get either polished, powder coated, or just a good clean and paint job.
I'm not sure how I want to do the underhood treatment. Black on black with black and black, black and red, black and yellow, black and blue? Polished bits, NO polished bits? I dunno yet. I'll have to decide once everything is clean. My brakes are currently yellow, but the fronts are "Big Reds" so I might revert back to that. But you see so many Black/red cars out there, so I don't know. Black and blue (and polished aluminum) under the hood can look pretty good, I might try that...
![](http://evilallianceracing.com/ipw-web/gallery/albums/eVil951/blackandblue.jpg)
(file photo)
Shipping the block up to 944 Enhancement on Friday. 2.7 liters, here I come!