UPDATE: getting back on the road
#1
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UPDATE: getting back on the road
well some of you may recall a few months ago i made a post on here about getting my 88 turbo S back on the road because it was sitting around for years. today i finnaly got it running again after about 2 months of hard work (its hard with school and work)
sooo heres wat i did so far:
-Stainless brake lines
-Pagid Sport Brake pads
-Castrol SRF brake Fluid
-Cleaned out intake manifold
-checked all the belts and pulleys (they were all in really really good shape replaced 2000 miles ago, checked tension too)
-New oil filter
-Oil Detergent added to get rid of gunk
-Replaced Coolant
-Resurfaced Brakes (it was a pain finding someone with the equiptment to cut the rotors cuz they are too big for most shops)
-New mobil 1 fully synthetic 10w-30 oil
-ordering new micheln pilot sports tommorrow
-K and N Air filter
-rebuilt fuel injectors (thank you witchcraft)
i prolly forgot a few things ill add if i think of any more
there is only one problem, the engine is running a little rough and it has a valve tick (im assuming the two things are related) tommorrow im gonna put some marvels mystery oil in the oil and the gasoline, and believe it or not (ive seen it work before) it might clear up the valve tick. if it doesnt any suggestions on rebuilding the head??? think i can do it myself??? if not how much would a rebuild be???
sooo heres wat i did so far:
-Stainless brake lines
-Pagid Sport Brake pads
-Castrol SRF brake Fluid
-Cleaned out intake manifold
-checked all the belts and pulleys (they were all in really really good shape replaced 2000 miles ago, checked tension too)
-New oil filter
-Oil Detergent added to get rid of gunk
-Replaced Coolant
-Resurfaced Brakes (it was a pain finding someone with the equiptment to cut the rotors cuz they are too big for most shops)
-New mobil 1 fully synthetic 10w-30 oil
-ordering new micheln pilot sports tommorrow
-K and N Air filter
-rebuilt fuel injectors (thank you witchcraft)
i prolly forgot a few things ill add if i think of any more
there is only one problem, the engine is running a little rough and it has a valve tick (im assuming the two things are related) tommorrow im gonna put some marvels mystery oil in the oil and the gasoline, and believe it or not (ive seen it work before) it might clear up the valve tick. if it doesnt any suggestions on rebuilding the head??? think i can do it myself??? if not how much would a rebuild be???
#2
Rennlist Member
I've said it before: 10W-30 is really low viscosity. Then again, you live in Jersey, so I've no idea how hot things get in the summer for you guys.
Good luck mate!
Good luck mate!
#5
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Originally Posted by ausgeflippt951
I've said it before: 10W-30 is really low viscosity. Then again, you live in Jersey, so I've no idea how hot things get in the summer for you guys.
Good luck mate!
Good luck mate!
#7
Yeah dude-that oil is NOT acceptable.
Look at your pressure hot today - then go down to Wallmart and get 2 5-quarts of Castrol 20/50 - watch how it stays higher when its hot.
Look at your pressure hot today - then go down to Wallmart and get 2 5-quarts of Castrol 20/50 - watch how it stays higher when its hot.
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#9
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When my turbo's sit unused I will get a lifter tick once in a while at start up. After the oil gets to temp and ran for 20 min or so it will free up and stop ticking.
#10
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ive been warming it up and letting it cool down a bunch of times and it doesnt seem to be getting better. im gonna warm it up and let it cool down a few times today, see what happens if it doesnt get better im prolly gonna have to rip the whole thing apart. what im worried about is having a floating valve, which could cause serious damage.
the thing is this car sat for 10 years, sure we fired it up every couple of months, but for a good solid 4 years it was untouched... so think aobut the valve springs some were compressed others werent, causing uneven "wear" in the springs
the thing is this car sat for 10 years, sure we fired it up every couple of months, but for a good solid 4 years it was untouched... so think aobut the valve springs some were compressed others werent, causing uneven "wear" in the springs
#11
Also, start looking for vacuum leaks. They are the most common cause of rough idle. And that 10/30 oil, plus the additive, you have probably lowered the viscosity even more.
#13
Originally Posted by FastPirate
-Oil Detergent added to get rid of gunk
I am not an expert by any means but I would probably stick with Castrol 20/50 with no additives and let that do the cleaning. Changing it out after a few hundred miles if you are concerned that there are excessive amounts of acumulation in the oil passages.
Glad to hear that you got it on the road after all of these years. Enjoy!