xsboost90

^ very true!

damiza318

I notice a big difference between my stock '89 and my stock '87. Feel like two totally different cars powerwise and acceleration-wise.

Rogue_Ant

If its in your budget then I would definately go with a K27.

My exhaust is coated - so when I welded in the O2 bung, I expected some rusting.

Where in CO are you located?


-Rogue

nize

for the same price, you could get a double-ball-bearing garrett 50trim with #10hotside, stock bolt-on fit and get 17psi boost before 3krpm without running out of breath at redline.

if you can get one for $600 or so, then yeah it may be worth it. when you get up to $1200 you'd be paying yesterday's price for yesterday's technology when you could be getting today's technology instead.

'specialty' old style journal bearing turbos are outdated, overpriced, slow, and just not worth it any more.

FSAEracer03

To each his own... the cost of more capable turbos from various online vendors has reduced dramatically in the past few years. Thanks to the jumps in twin-scroll and anti-surge technologies, more "standard" turbos are dropping in price. I'm all for dual-bb cartridges, but I think calling a good thrust bearing turbo "slow and useless" is a bit of mellowdrama! The 200-400rpm drop in spool time is hardly crippling, IMHO.

Long live the T3/T4 variants.


The K26s are great turbos, and I've yet to see a more durable unit, but there are many, many more choices beyond the KKK brand. I agree that the K26/8 upgrade is only wise if a random spare unit is on hand and in fantastic shape (and even then one might justify its sale for a better suited turbo). If you have a "little" extra money to upgrade a few extra parts with the swap - and the extra time is negligible due to the "while you're in there" methodology - you can easily get 350whp with a streetable turbo swap.

YMMV. FWIW. IMHO. LOL. BBQ. LOL!1!!1!!!one

ryanm6100

FWIW I've got a k26/8 in great shape just sitting at my place not being used. Probably won't be used.

I have no idea what the market is for these.

Jeremy Himsel

Yeah I think Nize is overstating a little bit. What I do know is my Journal bearing Vitesse stage two, with a bigger compressor wheel then Nize's "50 Trim" makes 15 psi @ 2950. No fancy schmancy data logs, just based on the read out from my AVC-R and watching my tach so I'm not overly convinved the dual BBB cartridges are the holy grail.

lee101315

Well I went with the K26 with a #8 hotside in December of 07

I didnt expect such a difference with a #8 , the car pulled way harder @18psi than it did with the #6 hotside. I would say without changing anything else, you free up about 30hp with a K26/8.

The extra lag was barely noticeable compared to stock

I am now upgrading to a K27/8 very soon....

nize

jeremy (and all others involved);

no data logs and no empirical evidence = no basis for claims. end of story.

stop speculating and post up some real data.

i have yet to see any journal bearing turbo with a #10 hotside make anything close to 17psi by 2969rpm.

note: 15 psi @ 2950 is not the same as 17psi by the same rpm.

to give you an idea of an "apples vs apples" difference, here is 15.7psi on a dbb turbo with #10 hotside by 2938rpm;

nize

now just imagine how much more power you'd get with a #10 hotside and quicker spool...

TonyG

I wouldn't waste the time or money on a K26/8 unless it's a race car with class restrictions. It's to laggy for the street with a 2.5L while having a small compressor that simply doesn't flow enough air for the 2.5L engine.

For a few bucks more you can get a K27/6 which will spool sooner (500 rpms) over a K26/8, and make a good 35+RWHP over what a K26/8 will make.

In short, the area-under-the-curve much greater with a K27/6 vs a K26/8.

TonyG

Trucho-951

Nize, that's great spool-up for your DBB. Could you post boost curves for 2nd gear and 3rd gear data logs.

Jeremy Himsel

Nize, so because I have no need for stand alone, or to log boost for that matter, I guess I must be lying. How about this, you or anyone you trust, or anyone on this board for that matter is more then welcome to sit your *** in the drivers seat of my car and let me know if I'm full of ****. Unconditional offer. Then tell me I'm speculating.

A.Wayne

Jeremy
Never seen quicker spool time with a DBB setup on anything ! The initial spool time is the same as conventional with similar size's etc, the difference noted with a DBB was much better top end and once spooled had less lag time during shifts as it would not lose as much inertia. overall a DBB is a superior turbo, just not in initial spool time, there is nothing much to write home about there ... so i would agree you could see the same spool time with an conventional turbo.

On topic, K27/8 vs K27/6 pro /con

nize

jeremy; i'm not saying you're full of ****. i do know from experience that what appears to be 15psi on the boost gauge at 3krpm (for example), can easily turn out to be 15psi at 3200rpm in reality. engine variables are changing so quickly that in-cockpit/butt-dyno analysis is really just speculation at best.

over this weekend, i met up with another rennlister who had the full vitesse stage2 setup (maf, turbo, piggyback tuning, etc.) which i understand is a k27 and we did a side-by-side comparison. the garrett dbb #10 not only spools faster but also pulls harder to redline. when he got in my car for a butt-dyno he was shocked at how big the difference was.

anyway, between a k26/8 vs k27/6 i would choose the k27/6 as previously stated by others.

however, if the price for a k27/6 is indeed $1200 new, i believe a garrett dbb 50trim/10 is a far superior return on investment.

i'm surprised 951 guys are still paying such high prices for old technology, and then wondering why 951 stuff is so overpriced. old kkk journal bearing turbos can be had brand-new for around $600 these days.