new nosepanel mold done
#1
Three Wheelin'
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first mold done, just gotto put some filler in near porsche emblem pins, nosepanel shapes really weren't made to mold off!
now the fiberglass oem size panel will be made, then modded, then yet another mold with scoop.. and 1-2 inches taller at start around IC
small teaser.
now the fiberglass oem size panel will be made, then modded, then yet another mold with scoop.. and 1-2 inches taller at start around IC
small teaser.
![](http://anders.fqdn.no/albums/944/DSC00258.sized.jpg)
![](http://anders.fqdn.no/albums/944/DSC00265.sized.jpg)
#3
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Out of curiosity, how did you make the negative? I'm a fiberglasser myself and will be producing some parts for my car once I move into a place with a garage. Your top picture looks much less a mold than a production part.
#4
Drifting
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Seems it would be better to make a solid block mold, with a stock metal header panel inside, then cut the mold in half. You could assemble the mold, with ties to hold it together, and then pour in resin or fiberglass mixture. Let it cure, then you pop the two pieces of the mold apart, and you are left with a piece with exact measurements of the stock metal piece.
If he is mkaing pieces OVER the top of a stock panel, the new one will obviously be wider all around then the stock panel, due to the thickness of the fiberglass. I doubt he is doing it this way, but never know. Still very cool!
If he is mkaing pieces OVER the top of a stock panel, the new one will obviously be wider all around then the stock panel, due to the thickness of the fiberglass. I doubt he is doing it this way, but never know. Still very cool!
#5
That Guy
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Originally Posted by dime1622
Out of curiosity, how did you make the negative? I'm a fiberglasser myself and will be producing some parts for my car once I move into a place with a garage. Your top picture looks much less a mold than a production part.
Uhh the first three words in his write up should anwser your question
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#6
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no cutting! no need to make it a 2 piece mold, here is what I did.
first wash the panel good
then wash it some more
then apply a few layers of locktite freekote (expensive!)
tape around **** you don't want polyester or gelcoat on like ends.
roll it with 3 layers of gelcoat I only used 2, so the "ugly" spots is polyester resin instead of sweet white gelcoat, but not of much importance really.
now to the fun parts, to the center of it first with glass/resin, I used 300gram (easy to work with)
then I put the front up vertically to do front and around nose of it, then flipped and did back, then sideways and did left side, then other side and other side.. so on, gotto use gravity as your friend here, wash with acetone in between layers if dried. the small sidepanels are a bitch, but doable as well.
then just lift the rear end of the metal nosepanel, get some air in, jack gently with wood sticks around all edges and pull straight up, voila 1 piece mold.
as for bottom (underside of nosepanel front) paint was crap there so had to put tape down so it wouldn't fasten to the rust/ruff surface
as for my plans. this is just the mold! now I will make a new nosepanel from it, then I will take the new nosepanel and mod it, I got a huge IC in front of fram rail, behind alu crash thingy that sticks up (2.5" pipes out rear).
so I take the new oem style one, mod it, test/measure/adapt it so it clears ic and airflow is good.
then I will make a ducting behind the ic in the mold that exits air.
then I will use this plug and make yet another mold of the finished product (I race, good to have molds)
now.. then I take the hood, make a mold of it (easy) and do a new hood, then cut the new hood with venting duct up from radiator, and over turbo and misc points.
I take a finished nosepanel piece with ducts in & out, and the hood piece and make them into 1 solid huge piece.
then again I make a mold out of this, and then I have a mold for the finished 1 piece with multiple ducts hood & nosepanel.
for strength divinycell will be plasterd in.
it will be fastend with 6 aerocatch hood lockers.
the $159 on ebay ic (3.5" core) 2.5" pipes, with the custom top nosepanel only a nice cutting wheel isneeded to fit it, needs to cut a few notches in bumper and alu rail (not much)
2layers of gelcoat down on the freecote applied with roller, the stuff is like wax on drugs, even thick gelcoat won't stick to it and you have to roll and roll
first wash the panel good
then wash it some more
then apply a few layers of locktite freekote (expensive!)
tape around **** you don't want polyester or gelcoat on like ends.
roll it with 3 layers of gelcoat I only used 2, so the "ugly" spots is polyester resin instead of sweet white gelcoat, but not of much importance really.
now to the fun parts, to the center of it first with glass/resin, I used 300gram (easy to work with)
then I put the front up vertically to do front and around nose of it, then flipped and did back, then sideways and did left side, then other side and other side.. so on, gotto use gravity as your friend here, wash with acetone in between layers if dried. the small sidepanels are a bitch, but doable as well.
then just lift the rear end of the metal nosepanel, get some air in, jack gently with wood sticks around all edges and pull straight up, voila 1 piece mold.
as for bottom (underside of nosepanel front) paint was crap there so had to put tape down so it wouldn't fasten to the rust/ruff surface
as for my plans. this is just the mold! now I will make a new nosepanel from it, then I will take the new nosepanel and mod it, I got a huge IC in front of fram rail, behind alu crash thingy that sticks up (2.5" pipes out rear).
so I take the new oem style one, mod it, test/measure/adapt it so it clears ic and airflow is good.
then I will make a ducting behind the ic in the mold that exits air.
then I will use this plug and make yet another mold of the finished product (I race, good to have molds)
now.. then I take the hood, make a mold of it (easy) and do a new hood, then cut the new hood with venting duct up from radiator, and over turbo and misc points.
I take a finished nosepanel piece with ducts in & out, and the hood piece and make them into 1 solid huge piece.
then again I make a mold out of this, and then I have a mold for the finished 1 piece with multiple ducts hood & nosepanel.
for strength divinycell will be plasterd in.
it will be fastend with 6 aerocatch hood lockers.
the $159 on ebay ic (3.5" core) 2.5" pipes, with the custom top nosepanel only a nice cutting wheel isneeded to fit it, needs to cut a few notches in bumper and alu rail (not much)
![](http://anders.fqdn.no/albums/944/DSC00237.sized.jpg)
2layers of gelcoat down on the freecote applied with roller, the stuff is like wax on drugs, even thick gelcoat won't stick to it and you have to roll and roll
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![](http://anders.fqdn.no/albums/944/DSC00250.sized.jpg)
#7
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Originally Posted by TurboX
Uhh the first three words in his write up should anwser your question ![ducking](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/icon107.gif)
![ducking](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/icon107.gif)
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#10
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looking good anders.
not to hijack, but did you even get an answer on supply vs return lines on the oil filter housing? i'm pretty sure the line coming off the housing just below the oil filter is supply and the one further back on the filter housing is return. someone please correct me if i am mistaken.
keep the pics coming.
not to hijack, but did you even get an answer on supply vs return lines on the oil filter housing? i'm pretty sure the line coming off the housing just below the oil filter is supply and the one further back on the filter housing is return. someone please correct me if i am mistaken.
keep the pics coming.
#11
Drifting
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So I must ask. In the second picture, with the panel flipped over. Will you be making the reproduction pieces by pouring a resin into this one in the poistion picture, or how? Doing this would give same measurements, but the bottom of the panel wouldn't flow with the lines of the stock one, and would be flat on the bottom as a I see it. This is why I suggested a 2 piece would be nice. You could keep the stock thickness of the panel (reducing unecessary weight) and have the countour of the stock panel as well.
However, I'm only being a ***** and commenting, I'm sure you're doing it the right way, as it seems you have thought it out quite a bit. Can't wait to see the end result!
However, I'm only being a ***** and commenting, I'm sure you're doing it the right way, as it seems you have thought it out quite a bit. Can't wait to see the end result!
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#13
Three Wheelin'
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it's pretty much the same procedure for makeing the done bits as makeing the mold, but the mold can be separated into pieces for large hard objects, when you got the mold you just put wax/realeaseagent, then gelcoat, then polyester & glassmat, then pull the done piece.
the fit will be exactly same height as oem unit, no height difference on top or bottom.
just game back from the shop, got 36 dremel cutting wheels, and a diamond one.. bring it on.
to mj951, no, no reply until now, talked to a porsche mechanic friend, who said "crank it and see".. doh. I personally like it a bit more scientific.
the fit will be exactly same height as oem unit, no height difference on top or bottom.
just game back from the shop, got 36 dremel cutting wheels, and a diamond one.. bring it on.
to mj951, no, no reply until now, talked to a porsche mechanic friend, who said "crank it and see".. doh. I personally like it a bit more scientific.