KuHL 951

I just finished cleaning/flushing the bare block and girdle. Before disassembly the block and girdle were perfectly flush at the oil pump mounting area and never leaked. I put the girdle loosely back on the block to protect the mounting areas until I reassemble the lower end. I noticed that the girdle now extends just past the block no matter how I move it around. Is there a trick to matching these up after they've been separated or does torquing everything bring flush somehow? I don't want to have to use a machinist stone on the block or jump through hoops after I apply the sealant and start torquing everything down. Can it be frozen before assembly or can that cause cracking as you torque?

Dumb question and I'm sure it won't be my last either

Thanks

theedge

Yes, you freeze it in the freezer for a day or two at least then put the sealant on and torque it, hitting it with a mallet as needed to slide it back a bit more. That gets it much closer but not perfect.

PorscheDoc

You need to install the oil pump (dry), then line the girdle up flush against the pump with all the bolts installed. Then remove the oil pump, and run your fingernail down the surface of the girdle and block to make sure it is even.

KuHL 951

Thanks. Is it installed at the factory frozen that way? If so, why? The way it's anchored it seems a match fit from the factory would be normal unless it's differential expansion they are concerned about. I really can't see the girdle moving once it's torqued down? These cars are a mystery

Tom M'Guinn

I suggested this on this forum a year or so ago and was run out of town. (Seems like a good idea, but for the possibility of stripped little studs...

I just lined up mine today too and it was off a few thousanths -- I may try the freezer thing -- but I also tried putting the block in the sun for a while, while the girdle say in front of an a/c vent in the shade. Seemed to help -- on a hotter day, I'm guessing it would do the trick...

KuHL 951

Thanks. Is it installed at the factory frozen that way? If so, why? The way it's anchored it seems a match fit from the factory would be normal unless it's differential expansion they are concerned about. I really can't see the girdle moving once it's torqued down? These cars are a mystery


Thanks. That does make sense but I still can't see why they don't line up better after disassembly. I always read about this issue causing leaks and people having to stone the face.

PorscheDoc

Well the girdle has some movement front to back, the key is getting the front surfaces flush so that that oil pump will make a flush seal. Once it is flush there, it should be lined up everywhere else. The key is going slow and double checking everywhere. I have never stripped any studs by doing it this way, if someone does, it is probably because they have too big of a wrench in their hands, lol. Don't use a torque wrench on those little m6 studs, they will strip out. A 1/4" ratchet does just fine....granted I use one all day long, so maybe my feel is better than most.

F18Rep

I bet the factory boys had some sort of jig. Bruce

Mighty Shilling

that could be why my 924S leaks from the oil pump.....

hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm.........

Tom M'Guinn

See other responses in this thread...

https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ghlight=girdle

Mike B

I did the freezer method. Left the girdle in the freezer overnight. The next day I took it from the freezer, applied the sealant and torqued as specified in the manual. Worked great! Before the freezer I was a good 1/8" out. After I was pretty much perfect.

Oddjob

Aluminum will move/creep, so its very common for the girdles to not match up once removed.

FSM states to tighten the girdle bolts down to the first stage torque sequence, then try to tap the girdle into place with a soft mallet (plastic hammer). Any left over lip should be sanded off using an oil stone.

I did use the freezer method on my first rebuild, but would not do it again. The frozen girdle will form a lot of condensation on it; unless you are rebuilding the motor in a very cool, very dry location. I do not know how well the 574 will set/adhere with moisture on the mating surface(?) - so I am not comfortable recommending this method.