autobahn_ambition

Is it possible to do a 951 rear main replace without removing the transmission and torque tube?

I checked Clar's Garage for procedures and the rear main replacement page was under contruction.

Any advice?

MPD47

No, the entire driveline must be removed.

KuHL 951

Actually you don't need to remove the torque tube, just rotate it and slide it back out of the way. Everything else Mike says has to come out though. This would be a good time to see if you need a clutch. You do not want to do this twice trust me.

jerome951

Yes, assuming you already have the engine out. ;-)
Other than that, you'll pulling a lot of stuff off including the tranny and sliding the tube.

autobahn_ambition

Thanks guys!!

I did a clutch about 11 monts ago. Should have done the rear main seal then.

KuHL 951

Oh Wow, that's enough right there to get you banned if we all hadn't done something equally short sighted ourselves

autobahn_ambition

Yes, it was surely short sighted. I had had the engine rebuilt three years earlier so I thought it would be good til the next clutch job.

WRONG!!!

My Porsche shop is Tyson Corner, VA quoted me a price of $1300 to do the rear main job. OUCH!!

I am just beginning my DIY ways. Seems like a big job for a beginner, but one must have *****.

How big of a deal is this job for a beginner?

Seems like you would have to:

- Remove the CVs
- Disconnect the shifting linkage
- Disconnect the Trans from the Torque tube (Trans Input Shaft away from Torque tube)
- Have method of lowering the trans
- Disconnect the Torque tube from the housing
- Move the Torque Tube back to reveal the Bell Housing
- At this point I don't know.

Is there more to the job?

billindenver

It is not difficult really, but there are a LOT of steps. There are several well written step by step instructions on the internet that make it easier. Those, printed out and on hand, plus a haynes manual would get even a moderately mechanical guy through it. Like I said, nothing in the job is difficult, only time consuming. I have seen a guy do a full clutch job on a 951 start to finish in 6 hours. Of course, he had it on a lift and has done many but anything a pro can do in 6 hours I can do eventually.

chris951

It's been about a year since I did the oil pan gasket, clutch, and rear main all at the same time.

Everything takes longer the first time so here are a few pointers: when you get the bellhousing off, you do not have to remove the torque tube, just rotate it 180 degrees and push it back where the transaxle was, don't break off any of the speed/reference sensors and mark them to know which is which, the bellhousing comes off in a weird way, you must loosen or remove the 10mm retainer screw for the fork pivot by threading a 8mm shank bolt(13mm head) into the fork pivot and tap it out. Failing to remove the pivot shaft will seriously mess things up when you try to remove the bellhousing.

The pressure plate bolts are a pain to get off since the cheesehead is very shallow and tend to strip easily, so order a new set of flywheel and pressure plate bolts.

Be very careful when removing the rear main seal, use a seal removal tool so you do not scratch and of the surfaces on the crank or the back of the engine. A seal removal tool is around $7-8 at Sears, so it's not expensive.

Remember to put some grease into the bearings for the clutch fork. Sometimes the shaft in the torque tube can be pushed backwards when you try stick the torque tube, so be careful. when you stick the torque tube into the bellhousing... and use a clutch alignment tool.

The engine ground is on top of the bellhousing and it is easy to forget to put back on as well as hard to see, so check it.

Some people put a dab of rtv silicone on the seal after it is installed for insurance, I didn't do this, but some people like it. Pack grease into the rear seal where the seal meets the crankshaft before you install it.

A rule of thumb for 951s, when you a fixing one problem, look around while you are there and replace parts that haven't been replaced and can fail as soon as you put the car all back together.

You can do a rear main seal on your car, just take your time and use your head. You will probably need an extra set of hands and a jack when you remove and install the tranny.

and finally good luck and if you have any trouble, this forum is great! There are some really good guys here to consult with when working on your 951!

BlacknRedGT

Take it to a shop if your not a good mechanic.... trust me. The job is not fun and it will cost more in the long run if you do it yourself. Unless you have all the tools you need and have a good bit of knowledge.

KuHL 951

You'll find that the most frustration comes with the smallest event. Getting to the upper bellhousing/engine bolts, removing the sensors, getting the pivot shaft out if the car is from a rusty locale, and wresting with the crossover pipe. You have one thing working in your favor and that's the clutch was done fairly recently so hopefully the shop lubed the bolts first and they haven't had 20 years to rust up. Small issues become bigger ones as things break. If you are just getting into the DIY phase of 951 ownership I think a rear seal might be enough to make you want to torch the car. That being said, if you do complete this work yourself you will be inducted into a secret society with the special powers to take on a second career of grooming badgers for fun.

sayporsha

This is NOT a job for a novice mechanic. It can be very overwhelming - it's like you have to get into your "Zen" place and treat each step, every nut and bolt like a project unto itself. I've been wrenching on cars for over 30 years now (10 years Porsche), and this job ranks as one of the most difficult. I'm currently replacing the clutch on mine (yes, I replaced the rear main seal), and I've had to use many of the tricks I've learned over the years to get through it.

M758

Yes there is. Remove the engine from the car.

Otherwise... no.

chris951

A person that works on and owns a 951=masochist