Misfire Problem Out Of Nowhere??
04-17-2007, 10:20 PM
#18
HMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM - misfire under DECEL??
Not buying the plug wire cause.
The plug wire problem is always most obvious under full cylinder filling - full throttle and peak torque. It becomes easiest then for the spark to jump to the raised exterior ring around the outside of the head at this time (I have watched it) instead of trying to force its way across the plug gap through the packed air in the cylinder.
Instead - let's make sure those boost tube clamps are tight in light of the recent clutch job.
These things (because they are oil-soaked for 20 years) will blow out slightly (when the throttle plate closes under DECEL!!!!!!) and then pull back in under vacuum.
Very tricky they can be.
Not buying the plug wire cause.
The plug wire problem is always most obvious under full cylinder filling - full throttle and peak torque. It becomes easiest then for the spark to jump to the raised exterior ring around the outside of the head at this time (I have watched it) instead of trying to force its way across the plug gap through the packed air in the cylinder.
Instead - let's make sure those boost tube clamps are tight in light of the recent clutch job.
These things (because they are oil-soaked for 20 years) will blow out slightly (when the throttle plate closes under DECEL!!!!!!) and then pull back in under vacuum.
Very tricky they can be.
04-17-2007, 10:28 PM
#19
Set to Full-Auto
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Tool - I agree, but it wasn't JUST under decel - just when it happened to manifest itself. It continued to run like this for a few minutes. He let the car "rest" for a bit and started it back up and the problem was gone..............no tools involved, so he couldn't have tightened anything.
04-17-2007, 10:40 PM
#20
Originally Posted by sharky47
Tool - I agree, but it wasn't JUST under decel - just when it happened to manifest itself. It continued to run like this for a few minutes. He let the car "rest" for a bit and started it back up and the problem was gone..............no tools involved, so he couldn't have tightened anything.
That sounds even more like the "magic tubes" and less like the wires.
Trust me, my son.
04-18-2007, 07:23 PM
#23
Pro
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: San Antonio, TX 78154
Posts: 717
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well.. I talked to magnacore today and they said there wires will work with resistant and non-resistant spark plugs. So thats good news. As for the misfiring, I have no clue what made it happen but what hose clamps would I check?
04-19-2007, 02:17 AM
#26
Three Wheelin'
Originally Posted by BlacknRedGT
Well.. I talked to magnacore today and they said there wires will work with resistant and non-resistant spark plugs. So thats good news. As for the misfiring, I have no clue what made it happen but what hose clamps would I check?
Oops, sorry about that. I thought I remember hearing they only worked with non-resistor plugs.
I agree with Sharky. When I tried tightening several of those hose clamps on your car last time I was over there, many of them felt like they would split open if you tried to go any tighter. Just go through and tighten all of the clamps you can see. I can come over tomorrow to pick up that stuff and take a look at it if you'd like.
04-19-2007, 04:24 AM
#27
Rennlist Member
If only there was some online store that offered full replacement packs of better hose clamps for our engines...
*cough*hint*cough*
I am not particularly looking forward to having to reuse my stock hardware when I get around to reassembling my engine.
*cough*hint*cough*
I am not particularly looking forward to having to reuse my stock hardware when I get around to reassembling my engine.
04-19-2007, 05:47 AM
#28
Three Wheelin'
Originally Posted by billthe3
If only there was some online store that offered full replacement packs of better hose clamps for our engines...
*cough*hint*cough*
I am not particularly looking forward to having to reuse my stock hardware when I get around to reassembling my engine.
*cough*hint*cough*
I am not particularly looking forward to having to reuse my stock hardware when I get around to reassembling my engine.
The typical clamps you can buy at most auto parts stores are quite a bit better quality and more than sufficient. The kind Autozone sells are stainless and the back of the clamp itself is reinforced so that it is much more resistant and will not split apart like the stock ones, unless maybe you hit it with an impact gun or something!
Of course, there are always t-bolts if you really want something durable, or you could go all the way and spend like $1000 or so to Wiggins clamp everything!
