3.0(+)l - 16v or 8v Head
#16
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by hosrom_951
And finding that rare 2.7L NA head is also showing to be more and more expensive.
US$2,400 from DC-Auto
US$2,400 from DC-Auto
#17
UAE Rennlist Ambassador
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Originally Posted by Oddjob
$1654.86 from a Dealer; still 17 brand new ones on the shelf in Germany.
DC-Auto is selling a complete head w/hardware for that price.
But having a bare head is what is needed, since you would need to replace the valves and springs for a turbo set-up anyway.
#19
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by hosrom_951
Is that for a bare head, or with the hardware (springs, retainers, valves etc).
DC-Auto is selling a complete head w/hardware for that price.
But having a bare head is what is needed, since you would need to replace the valves and springs for a turbo set-up anyway.
DC-Auto is selling a complete head w/hardware for that price.
But having a bare head is what is needed, since you would need to replace the valves and springs for a turbo set-up anyway.
The factory new heads include the plugs, dowel pins, valve seats, and valve guides. The valves, springs, retainers and seals are not included.
#21
Originally Posted by 968TurboS
How about the oil relief valve? I know its very expensive. If its a bare head, it would easily cost upwards of another $1k to make it ready.
Raj
Raj
#22
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Originally Posted by 931guru
Yes, the intake valves are unobtainium from Porsche, and nowhere else!
#23
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Originally Posted by Geneqco
Thanks Chris,
Are you able to quantify this at all?
ie, in two typical and similar setups, at what rpm point would you expect the 16v to start generating more TQ than the 8v and how significant is its top end improvement?
Thanks again.
Are you able to quantify this at all?
ie, in two typical and similar setups, at what rpm point would you expect the 16v to start generating more TQ than the 8v and how significant is its top end improvement?
Thanks again.
http://www.powerhaus.com/images/968t16v/dyno1.jpg
#24
Originally Posted by dand86951
Here is a dyno chart with 16V and 8V overlaid that shows the differences in torque and resulting horsepower vs rpm.
http://www.powerhaus.com/images/968t16v/dyno1.jpg
http://www.powerhaus.com/images/968t16v/dyno1.jpg
Looks like 16v is quite a bit better off boost. Any thoughts on the overall package comparison: better off boost with mid range sacrifice for the higher top end?
#25
Originally Posted by Chris White
The ‘general’ answer is that the whole torque curve is shifted over approx 1k rpm. This is a general answer because it can be affected by turbo selection and cam choice.
When it comes to the detonation issue I don’t think you will find a ‘detailed’ comparison because you are not comparing apples to apples. You won’t find the same mods (turbo , intake, cams) done to a 8v and a 16v so it is not a great comparison. The combustion chambers are very different design concepts so comparing them is difficult at best. For example – you can (have to actually!) run different spark timing - is this because of a less detonation prone design or because the central plug on the 16v has less flame front distance to travel…your guess may be as good as mine – but either way you can’t compare it to the same question on a 8v head.
Bottom line – you can trash either one with bad tuning or you can make pretty decent torque with either one with good tuning!
When it comes to the detonation issue I don’t think you will find a ‘detailed’ comparison because you are not comparing apples to apples. You won’t find the same mods (turbo , intake, cams) done to a 8v and a 16v so it is not a great comparison. The combustion chambers are very different design concepts so comparing them is difficult at best. For example – you can (have to actually!) run different spark timing - is this because of a less detonation prone design or because the central plug on the 16v has less flame front distance to travel…your guess may be as good as mine – but either way you can’t compare it to the same question on a 8v head.
Bottom line – you can trash either one with bad tuning or you can make pretty decent torque with either one with good tuning!
Thanks
#26
Three Wheelin'
Originally Posted by 931guru
Yes, the intake valves are unobtainium from Porsche, and nowhere else!
Haha. That's why you don't buy valves from the dealer. Any good quality 21-4N grade stainless valves from a reputable manufacturer (Ferrea, Manley, etc) will work just fine, and in many cases will be of superior metallurgic properties, heat dissipation and tensile strength. Stock isn't always the best or the cheapest.
The 944/968 16v heads are superior in every way, shape, and form to the 8v's except in terms of overall cost and custom work required. It's too bad that there isn't a larger market for the 16v stuff to make things a bit more cost effective. Personally, I think that if someone's going to spend say $15k+ on a motor then it's an absolutely horrendous and disappointing thing to throw a crappy, old, inefficient 8v head on it kind of like wearing a $10,000 suite and Nike's. The 8v's certainly make it easier as parts are easier to adapt (you can use lots of stock stuff), but they are significantly less efficient in combustion chamber design as well as overall airflow volume. Judging by what I've seen, according to LR and several others the stock 8v 951 heads flow ~180-190cfm intake and ~190cfm exhaust in stock form. For a turbocharged motor, those numbers aren't all that great, especially when you start modifying and reaching increased power levels. Now, I have yet to see a flow chart for any of the 16v heads but, I've heard a range of numbers thrown around by several individuals here around ~300-320cfm intake from the 16v heads, though I'm not sure on the exhaust side. Without having a flow chart, it's all speculation at this point, by I heard it from enough independant individuals that it seems plausible and at least in the ballpark. That's a significant amount more airflow volume then the 8v's, and would have hugely beneficial effects. The one very important factor I haven't heard any numbers on in regards to the 16v heads is airflow velocity. It could be they flow so much more due to over-sized ports, meaning significantly decreased airflow velocity (that's my theory) but, who know's. Either way, from a performance standpoint the 16v is ultimately superior. That being said, the 8v's still get the job "done" so they work just fine at the cost of a bit of efficiency.
#27
Nordschleife Master
With force induction... may as well stick with the 8valver.
Unless you want to spin the motor real fast and make HUGE numbers. (which a fast spinning 3 liter that's reliable doesn't sound financially feasible).
Unless you want to spin the motor real fast and make HUGE numbers. (which a fast spinning 3 liter that's reliable doesn't sound financially feasible).
#29
Originally Posted by Porschefile
The one very important factor I haven't heard any numbers on in regards to the 16v heads is airflow velocity. It could be they flow so much more due to over-sized ports, meaning significantly decreased airflow velocity (that's my theory) but, who know's. Either way, from a performance standpoint the 16v is ultimately superior. That being said, the 8v's still get the job "done" so they work just fine at the cost of a bit of efficiency.
Any comments?
#30
Nordschleife Master
Originally Posted by Luke
With force induction... may as well stick with the 8valver.
Unless you want to spin the motor real fast and make HUGE numbers. (which a fast spinning 3 liter that's reliable doesn't sound financially feasible).
Unless you want to spin the motor real fast and make HUGE numbers. (which a fast spinning 3 liter that's reliable doesn't sound financially feasible).
well, except the huge numbers part..