Ian Carr

ok i'm confused... my mechanic (who is a 944 guy non the less) told me that my shifter linkage up front needs to be replaced. From my under standing there is the shifter, the bar going from the shift, and the transmission shifter linkage. I also asked him to replace the shifter linkage on the transmission when it was in there, which i believe he did and the car did non the less shift better. So what might he be talking about? Is there some linkage im not sure about?

BTW i have a short shifter in and there is still inches of slop in the shifter. If any one has a diagram of the shifter assembly that would be awesome!

-Ian

Bri Bro

Everything you need to know about 944 shifter repair is here:
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...hlight=shifter

Ian Carr

VERY USEFUL!!! I will deffinitly give it a try and get under the car as soon as i can... probably when i get under there to change wastegate gaskets

Van

You shouldn't have to get under the car -- take the shifter apart* from inside the car and see if the horizontal pin on the handle is perfectly cylindrical or is it tapered on both ends? Taper=worn. Straight=good.

* Remove boot, remove ****, remove spring clip holding shaft on, remove two bolts holding assembly onto torque tube.

Ian Carr

what will i need to do if thats the cause? maybe make a bushing? Thats what i thought was originally the problem and i would need to make a bushing or some thing. I will check that first, then hope under the car

Van

It's mostly the metal post that wears down. But I'm sure replacing the bushing will also help.

See the cylindrical post on this photo: http://www.paragon-products.com/Phot...PP477.711.205D

That's the part that wears the most -- $46 from Paragon.

The fit between the shift rod and that post should be pretty snug -- any play here will equal sideways slop in the shift lever (because the lever moves but fails to "twist" the shift rod -- which is needed to select 1/2 or 5/R.)

Ian Carr

I have a new short shifter (not the linkage) with probably 20k miles on it.. and the play has always been there.

KuHL 951

You might want to read this also. If your shift lever pin is barrel shaped, the shift rod end is usually also worn. Replacing just the shift lever will not fix the slop problem alone. I've done 3 of these so far and it works great. Contrary to what the article says it can all be done in the car without removing the shift rod.

http://www.dietersmotorsports.com/tech/tech-july-03.htm

Ian Carr

Thanks kuhl that is exactly what i was thinking was the problem, and exactly how i was thinking of fixing it. I will take a look at that when i get the chance and if thats not it, i will go under the car and take a look at those bolts

Jeff N.

I just R&R'ed my entire linkage - thought I'd add back to this thread to help people find.

https://rennlist.com/forums/7835672-post82.html

adrial

The metal on metal design should last longer ... the plastic bushings are just going to wear faster than metal. Granted the plastic bushings are easier/cheaper to replace. But the shifter in my car lasted to 100k before any noticeable slop developed from this area.

At any rate ... you can buy reamers from mcmaster in .0005" increments in that size range, so you can get a better fit than using a 29/64 drill (which is a very loose tolerance process).

V2Rocket

what i did was remove the shift lever, grind off the weld where the original worn pin was held on, knocked out the pin, drilled the hole to 3/8" and put a piece of 3/8" rod in the hole at the right length and rewelded it. drilled the hole on the shifter rod to 3/8" + a tiny tiny bit and it is snug, over a year like that now. much much less play, maybe a half inch where it used to be like 3.

Jeff N.

Would be nice to have my own machine shop in the basement....ah well!