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help sliding torque tube back and removing sensor block (bolts out)

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Old 02-23-2007, 08:18 PM
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mtnman82
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Default help sliding torque tube back and removing sensor block (bolts out)

I finally got the bolts out for the sensor block (from underneath, with the aid of a cut off hex key). I'm planning to post a pics/desciption of what I used at the end of my other thread, for posterity.

In trying to get the sensor block out, I seem to be hung on a guide on one of the bolt holes (I remember reading about). I don't seem to be able to move the block back far enough to clear the guide. Should I not sweat this now and remove it as I am sliding the bellhousing slid back a bit?

Also, I took the three remaining torque tube to clutch bellhousing bolts out and am trying to rotate and slide the torque tube back. I can only rotate the torque tube about +/-20 degrees or so and I can't see what I'm hitting. I have the shifter plate off ... the bellhousing at the rear of the torque tube dosn't seem to be hitting anything ... the shifter rod is clear of the bellhousing ... I'm clearing the guide tabs ... Just wondering if there's something I'm missing before I go get primal on it.

Oh, and how careful do I need to be so as not to bend or muck up the driveshaft(rod?) in the center of the torque tube?

Thanks for the help once again!!!
Old 02-23-2007, 08:39 PM
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Van
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Make sure you rotate the torque tube the right way -- there's a flat side that will just clear the gas tank.

Also, you taken off the exhaust hanger brackets?
Old 02-24-2007, 12:23 AM
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mtnman82
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I'll check out the clearance w/ the gas tank, thanks, Van. Yup, exhaust hanger brackets are all off. Do you suggest rotating clockwise or counter-clockwise, as viewed from the rear of the car?

BTW, for those wondering, yes, I did search and read for better than 3 hours this afternoon before posting .....
Old 02-24-2007, 09:30 PM
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Van
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I believe, if you're facing the rear of the car, you rotate the torque tube clockwise about 90 degrees.

Good luck!
Old 02-25-2007, 01:29 PM
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sayporsha
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I don't think you can pull the sensor block without first pulling the bellhousing. You have to pull the sensors out of their bores - at least part way - to get them out of the way for pulling the bellhousing. This is one of the buggers about doing a clutch job on these cars, because the sensors are usually seized in the bores. Some guys cut a slot in their bellhousing so you don't have to do this, but that won't help you now, and I wonder if that weakens the bellhousing.
Old 02-25-2007, 05:52 PM
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Thanks for the reply, Jeff. I got the sensors out of the block no problem, but I did have a bear of a time gettng the sensor block bolts out. Sounds like you've confoirmed that if I move the bellhousing back some that should give me room to move the sensor block back enough to clear the guide on the bolt hole. At this point, I'm 99% sure I'm going to notch the bellhousing so I don't have to deal with this again.

I had every intent of getting back under the car this weekend, but then had some friends from out of town who were coming up for the weekend. Hopefully later this evening I'll get a chance to wrestle with the torque tube again .....
Old 02-25-2007, 08:58 PM
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Ski
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you can get the block out but you have to pry it BACK, then up. If it's never been out, there is a roll pin going forward into the block - that's what's holding you.
Old 02-27-2007, 12:52 PM
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Thanks for the reply, Bret. Roll pin is the term I was looking for, I used the term guide instead. Yup, that's what I'm hung up on.

I got the torque tube pulled back last night. It only took a minute ........ once I removed the shifter rod. I pulled the rod all the way out the back. I hope it won't be too much of a pain to put back in. I also wound up removing the fuel filter all the way (going to replace it anyway) and having to remove the tranny crossmember to pull the tube back far enough.

Then I went to HD to look for the 150mm long, 8mm bolt. Best I could find is a 70mm long bolt (1.25 pitch thread - hope that's correct). Gonna try to make some time tonight to see if that works.



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