Mike1982

I am taking my intake manifold off, headers, crossover, turbo and other small things. Just wondering how hard it is to pull the head off at that time?? The car has 134,xxx miles on it, so I would like to take this time to get my head cleaned, port & polished, etc. The thing that worries me the most is I will have to touch the timing belts. I know that isn't hard but putting everything back just right is what worries me. Anyways, if someone could give me some insight of how hard they thought it was for them. Here is a small scale to go by:

1: changing oil
2: fuel pump/filter replacement
3: pulling intake manifold, fuel rail, etc
4: installing MAF on stock car with chips and SMT-6 wiring
10: clutch job


PS: I know about clarks garage and read other post here, I just want to get a feeler of what everyone thought how hard it was. Also, I will look the pistons and all that but plan on getting head work done. Looking to turn my car into more of a track car but keep it for for the street, so like 25% track time, 75% street (weekend only). Just looking at what everyone did in this area, what their results were and if they are happy with it. ALso, good places to send my head to get the work done. I have looked up Lindsey Racing to get some what a base line. Also, cost of work to head. Thanks

Ski

As soon as you have the cam tower off, the valves are not a big deal. You can pull the head with the exhaust attached, much easier, just disconnect the crossover pipe. If it doesn't pop off the first time, put a pc of wood on a jack and just barely jack up the passenger side of the engine off the oil pan, then pop the head off.

Just set the car on TDC, using the cam gear and the flywheel indent (5mm wide) that shows up in the notch of the bell housing. Loosen the eccentric on the timing belt and take it off. When you put it back on, tighten it enough so that when you twist it, at about a 90° turn, it gets hard to turn further, then you can take it to a shop to check it for in 1000 or 1500 miles. DO torque the nut to spec, torque everthing to spec and in sequence.

Pulling the head, 2-4, depeding on your skill level - if it's your first time, probably an 8 just because you're nervous. No sweat.

Lindsey has a great head guy, so does Memphis Motorwerks.




LR I head with o-ring

like this - hint, loosen up the exhaust nuts so that the manifolds can move a bit as you lift if off

Van

I don't think a clutch job is a 10... I'd reserve 10 for properly rebuilding an engine or transmission -- and only because of the care one must take.

I'd say a clutch is maybe a 7 or 8 job -- nothing is that hard or complex, but there are a lot of small steps.

Just my $0.02.

Acetylene

Not as bad as you are probably thinking. Take your time and make sure you use a torque wrench - no sweat. Remember, it will never be easier to have the head done and upgrade the HG than when it is already at this degree of disassembly.

Ski

stock head bolt/nuts are done at a first torque then based on two turns of 90° angles, threads coated with a light coat of oil. Aftermarket, ARP and Raceware, have 3 sets of given torque values.

BlacknRedGT

Clutch job to me = alot of pain if your on your back.... but if you can find a lift your set

Van

Agreed. Luckily, I've never done it on my back!

Mike1982

So, should I replace my head bolts/studs to the block? With 132k miles on it, I would think yes just for that factor unless they have been done lately but it hasn't been touched for over 3.5 years now. If I DO replace, should I stay stock, go with raceware?? I won't even ASK about head gaskets, after the last couple of post I read about that, don't want to start a fight here!! lol

Tom M'Guinn

I rambled on about studs and all thing HG in my procedure linked below.